Wednesday, 12 December 2012

Ecuador - Cuenca

Cuenca is the third largest city in Ecuador but it doesn't feel like a city, more a town. The colonial old town is walkable in a few hours. Buildings are white washed with red tile roofs and the cobblestone streets are pretty to wonder around.

The day started with breakfast at a little cafe on the street corner next to the hostel. Yip, you probably guessed it - owned by American retirees! Within 10mins of sitting down it was full of the 'locals' catching up.

We found a great sombrero shop, ...... Selling Panama hats which actually originate from Ecuador, not Panama and are the finest straw hats in the world. In Ecuador they are called sombreros de paja toquilla. Toquilla is the fine straw from the region. The original owner's grandson proudly showed us around and placed the perfect size hat on Warren's head, accurately sizing his head up by eye. Genuine hats could be for for around 35USD. They can also be rolled for packing and then pressed back into shape.

We ventured across to the local municipal market - fruit, vegetables and meat. The meat section sold everything and anything. Upstairs there were food stalls with massive hog roast laid out that seems to be a popular meal even for breakfast.
Also had a wonder through some local artisan stalls and succumbed to earrings purchase number one. Have set a limit of one pair per country.

In the afternoon we headed to some small Inca ruins at the end of town, Pumipanga? The last Inca kings were two brothers, one had his seat at Macchu Picchu and the other at Ingapirca in Ecuador which is not far north of Cuenca.

For dinner Was set set out on a mission to try something more local - he ended up with pork, rice and beans. I had a nice shrimp stew. Shrimps are one of the main exports. I have had to become a beer drinker as wine is fairly expensive at about 4USD a glass while a quart of beer is 1.50 USD.
























Monday, 10 December 2012

Ecuador - Guayaquil to Cuenca

After a mammoth flight from London to Guayaquil in Ecuador, we pretty much crashed out on arriving at our accommodation in Guayaquil. We were up early Sunday morning - yay jetlag -by early I mean 5am early! Sorted out some bits and pieces we hadn't had a chance to before leaving home and then headed through for breakfast. I had managed Warren's expectations but were pleasantly surprised to find that £10pp for accommodation in Ecuador gets you a clean room with towels, breakfast with eggs, a small swimming pool and some pet turtles.

Managed to purchase our bus tickets to Cuenca. We need a lot more Spanish! Luckily Ecuadorians seem very helpful and patient.

A beautiful 3hr bus ride from Guayaquil to Cuenca with our first view of the Andes and through a national park - Cajas - which was like the Scottish highlands with llamas and lakes dotted about.

Cuenca is a pretty colonial town at around 2500m altitude. Crazy when you think we are higher than most ski resorts in the Alps. You notice it climbing stairs!

It's a pretty quiet place on a Sunday although we did manage to find the flower market and have our first bit of street food for lunch -croquette type things - with a crazy DJ playing some tunes and selling cold hamburgers at a flower market. Round the corner was a band playing next to the oddest nativity scene I have ever seen! Roaming amongst the farm animals below baby Jesus was a TIGER!

We also discovered that Cuenca seems to be a popular place for Americans to retire to. One of the only places we found open was an expat American bar with NFL showing and a lot of retired Americans. Seems cost of living, good healthcare and spring like weather make it a popular choice.

Sunday night in Cuenca was even quieter! The only place for dinner we could find open was a German pizzeria. PIZZA for our first Ecuadorian dinner!

Looking forward to exploring more tomorrow when things are open!