Rio, Rio the 'cidade maravilhosa'. In South Africa we have the 'mother city' Cape Town. One of the most beautiful city's on the planet. I have been lucky enough now to have visited a few cities in a few different places, and to my eye, nothing has rivalled the beautiful Mother City.
But I had thought perhaps Rio would. So it was with great excitement and also a little trepidation that I set off for Rio, hoping that after years of dreaming of visiting I wouldn't be disappointed.
There was no disappointment! Rio de Janeiro is as beautiful as I had always imagined. Yes, the traffic was chaotic approaching the city, but that first night with a first glimpse of Christ the Redeemer looking out across the city was indescribable.
We were staying in the south zone, in Lagoa near the Botanical Gardens. It's a great area to stay, central, but a bit away from the chaos of Carnaval. On arrival we were greeted by the super friendly staff at Lagoa Guest House and given loads of information. We headed out to a local restaurant ( a per kilo restaurant) where you pay by weight so effectively only paying for what you feel like eating. Why isn't this concept everywhere? This one was a posher version than the very cheap eats but it had sushi and after months of beef and rice this was a fabulous treat.
The first morning in Rio we got all kitted up to hike up to Christ the Redeemer only to leave the hostel and realise he was completely enveloped in clouds. It looked like a better day for the beach so after a quick change of clothes we headed to Ipanema, walking along the Lagoon to get thee. It was around a 40min walk, with loads of locals out jogging, walking and cycling the 7km route around the lagoon. Brazilians are fitness fanatics.
Ipanema is breathtaking. Clear blue sea, mountains and city behind and framed by a mountain to the side. Each lifeguard post hosts a different scene, with families heading towards the far Leblon side, the posers at another, the gay men at another, the volleyball and beach tennis areas and then surfers towards the Copacabana end. We decided to beach hop from Leblon to Copacabana and it was loads of fun checking out the different scenes.
We stopped for some agua coca, served out the coconut with a straw and a light lunch - crab in a half shell and cod fish balls (one of my new faves!) and then headed through to Copacabana.
Ipanema is a far nicer beach, but we strolled along Copacabana checking out the famous paving, the Copacabana Palace where Lady Di once stayed and stopping for a Caprinhia along the beach.
On arrival back at the hostel a free BBQ was underway with Caprinhias being shaken up. A great way to start meeting peoe for Carnaval.
Friday morning we were up and off to hike up to Christ the Redeemer. The weather played it's part and was loads clearer. From the hostel we headed to the botanical gardens and then up a back path through the Tijuca forest. It was steep and hot! There was a section so steep you had to haul yourself up the rocks using a steel rope. A 2hr hike later, dripping in sweat from the humidity, we saw the outstretched arms against the blue sky - what a site!
One of the bonuses of hiking up is there is a great view stop before you reach the top, where we were the only two people looking out over Rio. Once you're at the top, it's crazy with people. This was also the day Carnaval began and the first clear day in a few days so it was jam packed. We took a few photos, admired the view and then decided to head back to the hostel and catch up with everyone there as Carnaval was starting and we had a Bloco or two to check out!
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