With Santiago having 4 bus station, we were glad to have landed up at the correct one that we had directions from. Before taking the metro, we needed some local currency, Chilean Pesos. A quick confirmation of the exchange rate and practice of our 700 times table (yes, C$700 to £1) and we took the comfortable metro a few stops towards the Briggs Academy.
Liz is one of Mandy's best friends and we'd be staying with her and her husband, Felipe, for 5 days. It wasn't possible for us to make their wedding, so this is some make up time. Liz and Philipe set up an English school, the Briggs Academy, less than 3 years ago and it seems to be doing really well. A block away we even received a flyer for the academy and directions in. With Union Jacks flying proudly and books on The Queen and London in photos decking the coffee table, we new it was the right place. Liz introduced us to her staff an Musetta, her dog who we'd grow fond of over the coming days.
Lizzie's house keeper kindly made us a fantastic traditional Chilean dish, Pastel de chocolo (maize casserole and chicken). We saw the morning in with one of Mandy's and Lizzie's favourite activities, wine.
Felipe and Lizzie took the day off work to take us to the coast. An hour and a half drive away is Vina del Mar. En route we stopped off at a winery, Indomita (tbc) on the top of a hill looking down over it's vineyard and to The Andes range behind. Splendid lunch and great wines topped off with a walk through the vineyards with Musetta leading the way.
The sun was shining and we'd packed costumes, so we walked along the each and then swim time. One obstacle was the water temperature - bloody cold! Not deterred, Lizzie and I dived in (briefly) and ran out before the strong currents and waves had any chance to get hold of us.
Half an hour along the coast is Valparaiso, a really nice more bohemian area build high up on the hill overlooking the port. We really liked the colourful houses hosting, hostels, hotels, shops and restaurants. We stopped for pisco sours (regular, ginger and basil) sundowners and some nibbles and watched the sky erupt into pink as the sun set.
The next day, after a morning of catch up chats, Lizzie marked of The Briggs walking tour of Santiago and Mands and I headed off to see what this city had to offer.
First was a walk away from the city passing the leafy streets with people walking and cycling around and through a suburb of large detatched houses to San Christobal park.
The paths wound through the park towards the cable car. The Fenicular had not been working since last major earthquake. There are plans in place to build a new cable car expanding into newer developed areas, so the old one isn't being repaired. A road runs, winding up the mountain to the top peak, so we wouldn't miss out. Walking the 3.5 km we were passed by cyclists and joggers out for their lunch time training.
You really get a good perspective over the city's different suburbs from older areas through to the latest engineering marvels. Santiago has many things going for it, bar one curse of living surrounded by mountains... with little wind passing through ever present smog hangs, caught over the city. We never felt any problems, but it was always there.
Rio has Christ the Redeemer, and Santiago has Santa Maria watching over the city from the mountains peak. We walked around and a church and open prayer area with the minister holding hourly prayers.
Before taking the bus down, we shared a xxx de Mote - this is a peach juice with two whole peaches and barley in the bottle, half meal half drink.
Already pushing into mid afternoon, the bus dropped us at the bottom of the mountain in the Bellavista area. Completos (hot dogs) provided my lunch - stands are all around and they pile in ingredients like guacamole, onion, mayonnaise, tomatoes together with various salsas available.
A small restaurant and retail area lured us in. One shop had some wine racks - Mandy is now adamant that she will be designing a wine rack for us and we'll build one. A good project I'm looking forward to.
The area is a big student and arty hangout with numerous bars and late night clubs lining a few blocks. It's clear this is where it kicks off at night.
Our route took us through a park with street dogs (so many around South America), people relaxing, others making out passionately, a small park library and some kennels - for the homeless dogs.
Soon we were in the main plaza, Plaza de Armas. Lizzie had mentioned the chess games, and there they were, a good 25 or so games on the go. One table had 10 people spectating, perhaps the plaza champion was out!
Our own walking tour ended at Liz's training institute to meet up before Philipe took us to their favourite steak restaurant, Xxx. It's a converted cinema and has movie posters all around it's large floor area. Felipe and I shared half of my Vetado xxx steak and his Bife de Angosto xxx steak together with my recommended Chilean side of chips, fried onion and fried eggs (itself a full meal) - a good night out, but still not breaking into Steak Club top 10.
On Saturday we drove up a mountain valley in the south, just outside Santiago for a lunch at a great Italian restaurant with large grounds. We were joined by their friends, Lee and Riccardo. After lunch it was liqueur time and "the minute of trust" - 4 bottles of liqueur were brought out and we could effectively pour the shots ourselves and sneak refills during the minute. All sounds fine, except the minute turned into an hour and we came pretty close to finishing all 4 bottles. Needless to say the flamingo drinking technique and "the hoola" down down song came out to help us through.
A small lake followed as some chose siestas while others (Mands, me, Lizzie, Filipe and Musetta) rafted around and raced canoes.
Our final day was my best. Filipe had visited the butcher and we were off for a Chilean assado. A good hour drive north and we twisted around hair pin bends to a secluded picnic area, nestled between the mountains and under the shade of large pine trees.
While Filipe, our Assador, prepared the fuego and meat, Musetta bravely protected our perimeter from any local dogs getting too interested. First he brought out small pork sausages to get us interested, then Vetada steak as starters (11/10 - Top 3 steak easy) and as a finale, a whole fillet, again 11/10. Lizzie ensured our wine glasses were full and had accompanying sides on hand. Easily the best meal we have had in South America and right up there with the best Summer Sizzle steak we've ever had. Forget Argentina, if you're looking for South America's best steak, it's in Chile - just ask for Assador Philipe.
Back at the house we somehow managed cheese and wine and continued conversations with good friends.
Lizzie, Philipe and Musetta, huge thanks for a memorable week.
Now brush off the thermals as it's time for Mandy's most anticipated region, Patagonia!
Showing posts with label Santiago. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Santiago. Show all posts
Sunday, 17 March 2013
Argentina / Chile - Border Crossing
We left the flatter wine lands and climbed steeply with ever present snow capped peaks above us. A lake signifies the end point of the fast flowing river that is used for rafting.
A train line twists next to the road interspersed with small villages, always with a church.
The boarder post is almost on top of the world. You can feel the temperature difference with the wind blowing icy air. When we climbed out of the bus, I said that it was Chile, Mands agreed that it was cold, so I pointed our: "No, we're in Chile."
Although well organised and controlled throughout, the crossing process takes 2 hours. Chilean police and services are known for their effectiveness and non-corrupt ethics - could do with shipping them out to South Africa. Every single piece of hand luggage and larger stowed bag was security scanned and sniffed (not the efficient police, but their highly trained dogs).
Everyone passed and we were off. Chilean side is much more steep and has hair pin bends. We've only seen such roads driving up to ski resorts before. That said, it was quite fitting that there were ski lifts on the mountain next to us for the winter season.
We continued to Santiago where we'd have a much anticipated week with friends.
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