Argentina - Buenos Aires (tango, futbol, wine and steak)

Arriving at midnight on Wednesday and leaving on Saturday evening, we knew we wouldn't have enough time to do it all in Beunos Aires, but wow did we give it a good go...

Our hostel, El Petite Vitraux, had rave reviews and from the moment we walked in we were impressed with Mike and Elena's friendliness and hospitality. They live in Monserrat in a grand building with high ceilings and elegant finishings. They helped us with information about everything we were interested in and booked activities for us. I think Elena was more excited then us about the Tango and Mike nervous about his steak recommendation after hearing about the steak club. Anyway, here's how you do 72 hours in Buenos Aires...

During breakfast we confirmed what we wanted to do, where to go and booked the key items. Our self guided walking tour started mid morning along Avenida 9 de Julio. It's an extremely wide road honouring Argentina's Independence from Spain (1816). It boasts 7 lanes in each direction, lined with trees and shops, a main artery to the heart beat of the city.

Passed the Obelisk and down the touristy pedestrianised streets with touts calling out for us to join their parrilla for lunch. We didn't enjoy this area, but I was able to pick up trousers to tango (both of my travelling trousers have zip off legs, now different colours after several washes) and an Argentinian futbol shirt that would come in handy the next day.

On to Plaza de Mayo where stands the Casa Rosada (The Pink House), the presidential house of Argentina with the famous balcony with Eva Peron (Evita).

Mike had recommended a more local lunch spot, a parilla called El Desnivel, along cobbled streets and in the antique area. I reminded Mands of our "you buy it you carry it" rule as she browsed through.

Cafe Tortoni on Avenida de Mayo, is well over 100 years (opened 1858), and our chosen afternoon tea unwind cafe. The maitre'd showed us towards our table passed some of the original early decor to be greeted by our bow tie'ed waiter. Soon we sipped on the house special hot chocolate and churros (pastry sticks you dip in coffee or hot chocolate) and followed it down with a glass of our new summer afternoon favourite, Torrentes white wine.

Back to change and ready for our tango pickup. We wanted a lesson together with the regular show and dinner. Some of the shows house hundreds of guest in grand affairs, however we were looking for a more intimate option. We found this with Compleje Tango. About 50 people arrived and started off with the lesson. An hour later we were 6 stepping, ocho'ing and throwing tango poses for the camera. I, this always happens, was selected to do a final dance off pose against another couple. I like to think we destroyed them.

Our dinner and show table was right in the middle of the stage so we had great views of the show with lightening fast kicks, sultry poses and almost feel all of the attitude that accompanies a tango. The great food and captivating show wouldn't be complete before again being called on to dance among the dinner tables with one of the leggy performers. I threw out my best moves and poses until after the 3rd blue steel "photo pose", she said that the pose isn't a continual part of the dance, but rather a once off when the camera is out. Tango night was definitely a highlight.

Day 2 started with further walking tours now with a short stop off at Theatro Colon before taxi'ing to the Recoleta Cemetery. An enormous tree greeted us on the lawn outside (Jim from Tango says second largest in the world!) before entering the famous cemetery of Evita and other celebrated Argentinians. Each mausoleum replicated Greek temples, Chapels or similar ambitious structures. Each towers over you in an imposing way. Apparently Evita, who fought for the poor, was not a welcome addition in this super wealthy cemetery, but now her families mausoleum has queues waiting to get a glimpse.

Off across the city to the more affluent and trendy area of Palermo for more wondering and soaking up of Buenos Aires life.

To get to grips with Argentinians you need to experience the true essence of what runs through their veins, yes, football. Luckily there was a international World Cup qualifying futbol match against Venezuela and further luck allowed us to get tickets! We joined a tour and stopped for cervezas and pizza before being dropped at the ground, River Plate Futbol Stadium.

Messi is arguably the best player in the world and captain of the Argentinean team. It was clear from the start that he was the people's champion as every shirt bar two that we saw were number 10 - Messi. Fans chanted his name and the stadium erupted when he assisted in 2 goals and scored one himself. Quite something to watch him play and a great experience to watch the Argentinean passion in the stadium.

With a half day left we visited La Boca, known as the birthplace of Tango. The old shipyard is now full of painted houses and pedestrianised streets play host to tango dancers dancing and posing, for a price. I couldn't help but get a photo with Maradona and got the photo for half the asking price.

So in Buenos Aires we'd drank Argentinian wine, danced the tango, watched a futbol game, so the only thing left was the steak.

Our final adventure took us to an upmarket (not a backpack to be seen) specialist steak restaurant on the docks, Cabana Las Lilas. Mike recommended this as great steak and not touristy as some of the other known steak houses. As it was a hot sunny day, we chose to sit out on the deck and sipped on a cool glass of Torrentes wine I selected from the 100 page wine menu and enjoyed our included-in-the-cover-charge starters (at a price). We ordered mains and decided on a Malbec to complement. The steaks arrived looking great with their cow shaped labels showing how they had been cooked. I ordered the ojo de bife (rib-eye),  muy jugoso (very juicy aka rare) and Mands the Bife de chorizo (sirloin), jugoso (juicy aka medium rare). Argentinians tend to cook it medium / medium well if you don't specify. Well, Mandy's sirloin was the best she'd ever eaten in a restaurant and would be in my top 5! My rib-eye was good, but definitely trumped by that sirloin.

Getting back at the hostel, Mike opened the door and I could see his look of anticipation on how we enjoyed the steak. I decided to mess with him saying it was very regular before coming out with the good news. He was one relieved man.

We did well painting Beunos Aires red , but definitely have some unfinished business in Argentina. We're still to find the little known steak cafe with the magic formula, get a grip on mate and watch a Pumas rugby game. We've done well for now, so don't cry for me Argentina!

PS. We are still struggling to say Buenos Aires correctly without the Aires sounding like a pirate. Arrrr

Chile - Santiago

With Santiago having 4 bus station, we were glad to have landed up at the correct one that we had directions from. Before taking the metro, we needed some local currency, Chilean Pesos. A quick confirmation of the exchange rate and practice of our 700 times table (yes, C$700 to £1) and we took the comfortable metro a few stops towards the Briggs Academy.

Liz is one of Mandy's best friends and we'd be staying with her and her husband, Felipe, for 5 days. It wasn't possible for us to make their wedding, so this is some make up time. Liz and Philipe set up an English school, the Briggs Academy, less than 3 years ago and it seems to be doing really well. A block away we even received a flyer for the academy and directions in. With Union Jacks flying proudly and books on The Queen and London in photos decking the coffee table, we new it was the right place. Liz introduced us to her staff an Musetta, her dog who we'd grow fond of over the coming days.

Lizzie's house keeper kindly made us a fantastic traditional Chilean dish, Pastel de chocolo (maize casserole and chicken). We saw the morning in with one of Mandy's and Lizzie's favourite activities, wine.

Felipe and Lizzie took the day off work to take us to the coast. An hour and a half drive away is Vina del Mar. En route we stopped off at a winery, Indomita (tbc) on the top of a hill looking down over it's vineyard and to The Andes range behind. Splendid lunch and great wines topped off with a walk through the vineyards with Musetta leading the way.

The sun was shining and we'd packed costumes, so we walked along the each and then swim time. One obstacle was the water temperature - bloody cold! Not deterred, Lizzie and I dived in (briefly) and ran out before the strong currents and waves had any chance to get hold of us.

Half an hour along the coast is Valparaiso, a really nice more bohemian area build high up on the hill overlooking the port. We really liked the colourful houses hosting, hostels, hotels, shops and restaurants. We stopped for pisco sours (regular, ginger and basil) sundowners and some nibbles and watched the sky erupt into pink as the sun set.

The next day, after a morning of catch up chats, Lizzie marked of The Briggs walking tour of Santiago and Mands and I headed off to see what this city had to offer.

First was a walk away from the city passing the leafy streets with people walking and cycling around and through a suburb of large detatched houses to San Christobal park.

The paths wound through the park towards the cable car. The Fenicular had not been working since last major earthquake. There are plans in place to build a new cable car expanding into newer developed areas, so the old one isn't being repaired. A road runs, winding up the mountain to the top peak, so we wouldn't miss out. Walking the 3.5 km we were passed by cyclists and joggers out for their lunch time training.

You really get a good perspective over the city's different suburbs from older areas through to the latest engineering marvels. Santiago has many things going for it, bar one curse of living surrounded by mountains... with little wind passing through ever present smog hangs, caught over the city. We never felt any problems, but it was always there.

Rio has Christ the Redeemer, and Santiago has Santa Maria watching over the city from the mountains peak. We walked around and a church and open prayer area with the minister holding hourly prayers.

Before taking the bus down, we shared a xxx de Mote - this is a peach juice with two whole peaches and barley in the bottle, half meal half drink.

Already pushing into mid afternoon, the bus dropped us at the bottom of the mountain in the Bellavista area. Completos (hot dogs) provided my lunch - stands are all around and they pile in ingredients like guacamole, onion, mayonnaise, tomatoes together with various salsas available.

A small restaurant and retail area lured us in. One shop had some wine racks - Mandy is now adamant that she will be designing a wine rack for us and we'll build one. A good project I'm looking forward to.

The area is a big student and arty hangout with numerous bars and late night clubs lining a few blocks. It's clear this is where it kicks off at night.

Our route took us through a park with street dogs (so many around South America), people relaxing, others making out passionately, a small park library and some kennels - for the homeless dogs.

Soon we were in the main plaza, Plaza de Armas. Lizzie had mentioned the chess games, and there they were, a good 25 or so games on the go. One table had 10 people spectating, perhaps the plaza champion was out!

Our own walking tour ended at Liz's training institute to meet up before Philipe took us to their favourite steak restaurant, Xxx. It's a converted cinema and has movie posters all around it's large floor area. Felipe and I shared half of my Vetado xxx steak and his Bife de Angosto xxx steak together with my recommended Chilean side of chips, fried onion and fried eggs (itself a full meal) - a good night out, but still not breaking into Steak Club top 10.

On Saturday we drove up a mountain valley in the south, just outside Santiago for a lunch at a great Italian restaurant with large grounds. We were joined by their friends, Lee and Riccardo. After lunch it was liqueur time and "the minute of trust" - 4 bottles of liqueur were brought out and we could effectively pour the shots ourselves and sneak refills during the minute. All sounds fine, except the minute turned into an hour and we came pretty close to finishing all 4 bottles. Needless to say the flamingo drinking technique and "the hoola" down down song came out to help us through.

A small lake followed as some chose siestas while others (Mands, me, Lizzie, Filipe and Musetta) rafted around and raced canoes.

Our final day was my best. Filipe had visited the butcher and we were off for a Chilean assado. A good hour drive north and we twisted around hair pin bends to a secluded picnic area, nestled between the mountains and under the shade of large pine trees.

While Filipe, our Assador, prepared the fuego and meat, Musetta bravely protected our perimeter from any local dogs getting too interested. First he brought out small pork sausages to get us interested, then Vetada steak as starters (11/10 - Top 3 steak easy) and as a finale, a whole fillet, again 11/10. Lizzie ensured our wine glasses were full and had accompanying sides on hand. Easily the best meal we have had in South America and right up there with the best Summer Sizzle steak we've ever had. Forget Argentina, if you're looking for South America's best steak, it's in Chile - just ask for Assador Philipe.

Back at the house we somehow managed cheese and wine and continued conversations with good friends.

Lizzie, Philipe and Musetta, huge thanks for a memorable week.

Now brush off the thermals as it's time for Mandy's most anticipated region, Patagonia!

Argentina - Mendoza

A long 18 hour, but super comfortable magic (large leather cama seats, movies, drinks and meals) bus later, we were almost in Mendoza from Salta. I couldn't believe how popular size of the highway asado's (bbq's) were. It was a Sunday and every kilometre or so, there was a small public hut with asado facilities and all of them were used - right there in the middle of nowhere. Meat is serious business here. It reminded me of when I was younger in South Africa and stopping of the side of the road for a picnic to break up a long journey - pitty, not sure anyone does this anymore.

Probably only a 5 minute cheap taxi ride away we arrived at Hostel Lao. Lizzie had recommended it and Mands booked ages ago. Even so we had the first night in a shared dorm and next two nights back in a double. A shared dorm is a great way to meet people, but the benefits stop there. The hostel is really good with friendly well informed staff and large well kept common areas and garden with hammocks, bed loungers and pool. Probably makes our top 3 hostels.

In the afternoon we caught a tourist bus for a trip around the largest park I've ever seen, Parque St Martin. It's got everything, a logoa with rowing regatta on when we were there, football stadium, bmx tracks, zoo, theatre, rugby/hockey/football, cafe's and acres of trees and grass areas. Being a Sunday, families picnicked all around - many had tables and chairs with them and everyone had their thermos for matte (tea). We'd learnt about customs and rules for drinking matte so picked up on these being put into action. Everyone says the English drink lots of tea, but they have nothing on the Argentinians who are never without a thermos at their side and their special cup and metal straw.

On our way back we walked through the bustling main plaza, Plaza Indepencia. It too was large and craft stalls ran along the paths showing off their wares including, jewellery, leather goods, wine holders, home industries foods and jams. We stopped close by for a sundowner of Andes Cerveca (1 litre, they come big) and Mands ordered a suggested Argentinean rum and coke that tasted like minty mouth wash.

Aristdes Villaneuva is a great street with wide sidewalks and lined with bars and restaurants. Chairs and tables dominated the pavement with a vibey feel from the conversations of hundreds of revellers. We stopped for a glass of wine and barley wine beer before settling down at a restaurant under the oak trees and shared a steak with mushroom sauce.

The new day brought on excitement for the very reason Mendoza is famous, wine. We bussed out to collect bicycles from Baccus bike tours and map for the wine route. The itinerary scheduled 5 stops, but were having such an interesting time at the 3rd we didn't make the other two.

On our bicycles, we headed out down the oak liked road between vineyards and a stunning snow capped Andes mountain range as a backdrop. A few wrong turns added half an hour on to our twenty minute first leg, but some local guidance brought us back on track.

1) Carmelo Patty - small producer. The famous wine maker who has produced one of the top 10 wines in the world in 2010, his Cabernet Sauvignon. Arriving, we were greater by a grey haired, Spanish only speaking man and taken to the adjacent room to taste some wine. Magazines and photos lay all around and soon we realised we were with Carmelo Patty himself. We had heavy handed servings of three of his wines and learnt about his process, timings and temperatures. For instance his merlot should be poured into a cravat for an hour, the cravat placed on ice to bring it's temperature down to 15 to 18 degrees and served after an hour. The tasting was for free and we were pleasantly surprised that he provided personal attention like that for us. Apparently his wine is available in the UK under the Pappas label. We've a nice photo of us and Carmelo.

2) Lagarde - large producer. This cost P$30 and included tour and tasting. An experienced sommelier (wine specialist) took us round. It's harvesting time, so we were luckily enough to see grapes being loaded for the start of the winery process, de-stalking. With a suction, grapes are then removed from the stalks and the stalks shredded. We learnt about the French oak and American oak barrels and how few uses each barrel has. Premium wines get first use, then standard wines, then supermarket wines. French oak costs €1,200 and after it's used, sold for P$200 (€45). We learnt about their top wine, Henry, and many other really interesting facts. A further 3 wines and we were, as mum would say, on our bicycles.

We found an unmarked road leading through a vineyard, so headed down it - amazing scenery. No one was picking over lunch time, so we headed on.

3) Pulmary, an all organic wine producer. A lady took us on the small winery tour into the old basement concrete vats and gave us wines along the tour. She kept on responding to our questions with I and again we figured out that we were with the actual wine maker! A Swiss couple and us spent over an hour talking to her. 16 years ago they wanted to do something new and by chance landed up in wine - her husband is a lawyer and helped out someone and didn't ask for any money in return. The person they had helped later came and dropped of cases and cases of premium wine - as their pallets matured so their interest grew. They bought land and started growing from scratch. 5 years to sell the first bottle, 10 years vineyard break even, will take 20 years to pay off the winery, 5 family members full or part time involved and 4 full time employees. The most important advice she was given when starting was (1) live near your vineyards, they need constant attention (2) in the winery, the detail matters.

The Swiss couple were doing their 3rd round the world travel year! We bought a bottle of Pulmary's blend and shared traveller tales. Their best story is about laundry in China... At one hostel/hotel they asked whether they could get their laundry done. Yes was the response and they should wait in there room for 10 minutes first. They thought it strange, but 10 minutes later there was a knock on the door. Roger opened and their they stood with a washing machine. They had carried it up the steps and now plugged and plumbed it into their room to allow the travellers to do their own laundry - a complete misunderstanding!

Well after bike hire drop off time we eventually returned the bikes and bussed back into Mendoza's centre after a great day.

Don Mario (Dorrego) steakhouse was recommended by our hostel and Trip Advisor as the best grill. When we arrived it was a fancier place than we had imagined and got right into our shared Bife de Chorizo chips and salad (palm hearts, avo and tomato). Wow 7 cm high steak! I've not had a steak that thick before. Brown roasting on the outside and pink with plenty of blood on the inside. They grill the meat on a lower heat and for much longer that what I'm familiar with. And result... Enjoyable steak, but unfortunately not close to top 10.

Our final full day in Mendoza was spent initially exploring plazas, small Plaza Espana being the best. We bought a picnic lunch of salami, cheese, olives and Torentes wine.

We walked back to Parque St Martin and set up next to lagoon we'd seen the regatta at previously. We watched joggers, cyclists and roller bladers pass as we sipped, ate, red and slept our way through the afternoon.

That evening, Mands was feeling a little steaked out, but convinced her for one last outing - I think the wine and a few beers along the people watching pedestrianised Paseo Sarmiento helped.

We picked a restaurant along Avenue Sarmiento purely based on size and quantity of meat on display in the window fronted kitchen. Mands had the bife de fillet and I had the buffet de lomo. Much better both steaks than the previous night, but again similar grilling method and thick steaks. Perhaps such thick steaks need this time. I have learnt that from ordering to eating, expect one hour. I'll add this to my steak knowledge.

I take away from Mendoza that the people are friendly and happy to help, the wine is good, the city is a pleasure to visit and they like their rugby (took all of 1 minute for a waiter to talk about the Springboks).

The next morning was the impressive Andes bus border crossing into Chile, to Santiago, Lizzie and Felipe!

Argentina - Cafayate

After the twists and turns through the red mountains from Salta, the landscape flattened and vineyards started. A few kilometres later and we were in the small town of Cafayate. I liked it from right from the word "vamos". Sun beating down on the character filled buildings, intersected with dusty streets dotted with large trees giving some relief from the heat. It was a slow pace of life in a town rustically centred around wine.

We didn't have a hostel booked, but were really happy with our second viewing at Rusky-K with it's wide courtyard, grapevines and friendly atmosphere. The first hostel we looked at had a double with no outside windows.

Lunch was empanadas and salami on the main plaza, before Mands headed back for some downtime and I went exploring around town.

TripAdvisor rated a wine tasting shop, Chato's, off the main plaza highly for it's informative sommelier owner. Mands and I wondered around town before landing up there for a tasting of Cafayate's finest and another cold meats and olives platter. We learnt about the regions unique grape and wine, Torrentes. This white is known as The Liar as it's aroma is sweet, hiding the dryer taste below. We had a few of these across Argentina, a good summer afternoon choice. The owner rater South African Pinotage when he heard where we were from. He gave us two recommendations for wineries we'd visit cycling the next day.

Midmorning, after picking up the bikes we headed out on our wine tour. Passing the plaza, I said hello in by best Spanish to a street dog crossing the road (yes, sounds a little odd). The dog seemed to respond and then led us out of the town and along the road. The winery is 2 km out of town and this dog ran along with us the whole way. Normally Mands is the one dogs sniff out, but this time it was me. Quite taken by this I recorded a video of our pack making our way along the road.

At the winery / bodega we had 10 minutes before the tour, so our new friend gulped down some hosepipe water and found a place next to our bikes to wait for us to finish out tour. Etchart, is a larger winery and a knowledgable sommelier took us around in Spanish - we are now following a good deal of conversation, and where we look a little confused she repeats in English. The really informative tour was topped off with a 5 wine tasting, all for free. All of the wines are good here. Here I also learnt what Mands would come to despise, the way to properly enjoy your wine, bringing out all the aroma and flavour (lots of swirling and a aerating noises followed by a deep breath - I would do this for each sip in the coming days).

Our new friend rand back to town with us before deciding the 5km winery sounded a bit far and let us head off alone.

Finca de Las Nubes farm housed a small vineyard and winery. It had great views from the base of the mountain across the vineyard and over the town. Although only 5 km, we sweated it up the dust road climb and luckily I had a change of shirt on hand.

I ordered a bottle of their finest along with a lunch platter that we could ease through during the afternoon. It's so much more relaxed than South African more luxury high end vineyards.

We ended up staying the whole afternoon and well passed closing time. We bought another Torrentes and lazed the sun down - intermittently interrupted by their excited about chewing puppy.

We again headed to the plaza for an evening "knertsie" when Hola, our wine tour dog, arrived to have a snooze next to us. The plaza is beautiful at night with the church lit up and the yellow lights eliminating the trees. We've been through a few towns and cities now and the South American's have got it right with plazas. They are well maintained and regularly used by old, young, locals and travellers alike.

Mands and I strolled around the plaza and I bought my leather cased steak knife, fork and knife sharpening rod as an Argentinean memento. Steak club is going to be impressed.

Opposite our hostel was a really popular more local diner we tried. We ordered some empanadas and humitas (corn bread wrapped in maize leaves). Didn't realise we'd get 12 empanadas for P$25 (£3) so we could take some for lunch for our tour tomorrow - they keep really well.

We left this town taking fond memories and headed out to do the Quebrada de Cafayate (sandstone formations) tour and continue to Salta. More about that in a separate post.

Mi gusta Cafayate.