Leaving Cafayate, we took a tour through the Quebrada de Cafayate to see the well known sandstone formations. Our backpacks came with as we'd catch a bus from the last formation to our next destination.
We drove about 20 km leaving Cafayate's vineyards and the Sierra de Carahuasi mountains started. Our first stop was for a short walk into a section of mountains where we could see the weathered effect of rain, rivers and the wind on the sandstone rocks. Non-descript features were smoothly carved out. The rocks contain different minerals that bring out various shades of red. The whole range is a protected area, so no climbing to get pride rock photos like on the Salt Flats tour.
Every few kilometres we'd stop at a recognisable formation. First the Los Castillos (The Castles), then the El Obelisco (The Obelisk) and on to do another walk, this time for an hour.
Although clouds were out they would pass over highlighting the bright minerals as they let the sun through. Reds, greens, creams, browns, blacks and yellows shone out across the vast landscape. Here we climbed up onto hills for impressive views.
Further on the tour passed El Sapo (The Toad) to a mirador at the Three Crosses. the last two stops were the most impressive...
El Amfiteatro (The Amphitheatre) is a natural carved out by water. It must be twenty stories high. You walk through a narrow opening to a circular room that throws any sounds off against the walls. It reminded me of the TV series, Airwolf, from the 80's where the helicopter takes off vertically from it's top secret location. A man played on a wooden flute to promote his CD, so we could get a taste of what concerts in here could be like - they do actually host musical events in this amphitheater. It must be quite a sight and sound. This was definitely my favourite.
Finally it was the turn of Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat). This was the same height as the amphitheatre, but curved around a corner. This we could scale the rocks up different levels until we could go no further. After all of our climbing experience on this holiday, we are scrambling over obstacles like mountain goats, compared to others.
After the tour we waited 2 hours under the shade of a cool tree while the sun beat down around us. 3 hardened looking backpackers also took in the shade - they looked like they'd been travelling for years before their halfhearted attempt to catch a bus going in the opposite direction resulted in them missing it and deciding to start walking the 50 km's to Cafayate.
On the road again to pass through Salta before the heading to Argentina's wine and rugby capital, Mandoza.
After the twists and turns through the red mountains from Salta, the landscape flattened and vineyards started. A few kilometres later and we were in the small town of Cafayate. I liked it from right from the word "vamos". Sun beating down on the character filled buildings, intersected with dusty streets dotted with large trees giving some relief from the heat. It was a slow pace of life in a town rustically centred around wine.
We didn't have a hostel booked, but were really happy with our second viewing at Rusky-K with it's wide courtyard, grapevines and friendly atmosphere. The first hostel we looked at had a double with no outside windows.
Lunch was empanadas and salami on the main plaza, before Mands headed back for some downtime and I went exploring around town.
TripAdvisor rated a wine tasting shop, Chato's, off the main plaza highly for it's informative sommelier owner. Mands and I wondered around town before landing up there for a tasting of Cafayate's finest and another cold meats and olives platter. We learnt about the regions unique grape and wine, Torrentes. This white is known as The Liar as it's aroma is sweet, hiding the dryer taste below. We had a few of these across Argentina, a good summer afternoon choice. The owner rater South African Pinotage when he heard where we were from. He gave us two recommendations for wineries we'd visit cycling the next day.
Midmorning, after picking up the bikes we headed out on our wine tour. Passing the plaza, I said hello in by best Spanish to a street dog crossing the road (yes, sounds a little odd). The dog seemed to respond and then led us out of the town and along the road. The winery is 2 km out of town and this dog ran along with us the whole way. Normally Mands is the one dogs sniff out, but this time it was me. Quite taken by this I recorded a video of our pack making our way along the road.
At the winery / bodega we had 10 minutes before the tour, so our new friend gulped down some hosepipe water and found a place next to our bikes to wait for us to finish out tour. Etchart, is a larger winery and a knowledgable sommelier took us around in Spanish - we are now following a good deal of conversation, and where we look a little confused she repeats in English. The really informative tour was topped off with a 5 wine tasting, all for free. All of the wines are good here. Here I also learnt what Mands would come to despise, the way to properly enjoy your wine, bringing out all the aroma and flavour (lots of swirling and a aerating noises followed by a deep breath - I would do this for each sip in the coming days).
Our new friend rand back to town with us before deciding the 5km winery sounded a bit far and let us head off alone.
Finca de Las Nubes farm housed a small vineyard and winery. It had great views from the base of the mountain across the vineyard and over the town. Although only 5 km, we sweated it up the dust road climb and luckily I had a change of shirt on hand.
I ordered a bottle of their finest along with a lunch platter that we could ease through during the afternoon. It's so much more relaxed than South African more luxury high end vineyards.
We ended up staying the whole afternoon and well passed closing time. We bought another Torrentes and lazed the sun down - intermittently interrupted by their excited about chewing puppy.
We again headed to the plaza for an evening "knertsie" when Hola, our wine tour dog, arrived to have a snooze next to us. The plaza is beautiful at night with the church lit up and the yellow lights eliminating the trees. We've been through a few towns and cities now and the South American's have got it right with plazas. They are well maintained and regularly used by old, young, locals and travellers alike.
Mands and I strolled around the plaza and I bought my leather cased steak knife, fork and knife sharpening rod as an Argentinean memento. Steak club is going to be impressed.
Opposite our hostel was a really popular more local diner we tried. We ordered some empanadas and humitas (corn bread wrapped in maize leaves). Didn't realise we'd get 12 empanadas for P$25 (£3) so we could take some for lunch for our tour tomorrow - they keep really well.
We left this town taking fond memories and headed out to do the Quebrada de Cafayate (sandstone formations) tour and continue to Salta. More about that in a separate post.
Mi gusta Cafayate.
