Following the W Trek, we were able to catch a transfer across the border from Patagonia in Chile to Patagonia in Argentina. Always Glacier guided us through the much quieter, much more chilled out border crossing out of Chile and back into Argentina. It seems the Chileans are only concerned about what is coming into Chile, not what is going out.
Travelling at dusk, we experienced a stunning sunset that lasted for two hours of pink, yellow and orange.
Arriving in El Calafate Belen from Lautara Hostel gave us the friendliest, most enthusiastic greeting we'd had all holiday. Her friendliness and helpfulness would continue the whole time we were here. It makes such a difference.
With heavy legs from the W Trek, a chilled day was on the cards. Whereas Puerto Natales was a no frills basic town, El Calafate was full of brand shops and fancier restaurants.
A stroll through town followed our pick up of rental boots for the next day's glacier walk. Lunch was at a very basic cafe like grill, La Fonda del Parrillero. The low priced steak turned out to be the best steak we'd had so far in Argentina! Just shows you that you can get as many recommendations on what to do and where to go, but the gems are still the ones you try blind with no expectations, that fly in from left field and surprise you.
My choice was the Ojo de Bife con frites (pesos 44 / <£6) and Mandy's Bife de Chorizo (same price). This is what Argentina should be about.
We spent the afternoon getting lost along the lagoon and bird sanctuary close to town before a quick sundowner and dinner. Yes, we did eat quite a bit today, but all in preparation for the glacier tomorrow. Mi Ranch was a number one recommended grill from Trip Advisor and off the tourist road - the lamb and trout we had were in our top 5 meals on holiday!
Finally ice walking day! Perito Moreno Glacier is one of the glaciers originating from the massive Patagonian Icefield. Mands, not wanting to miss out on any experience, agreed to tackle the longer, 7 hour "Big Ice" trek instead of the standard 3 hour option - good effort with her toes still blistered. The new speciality ankle boots should help too.
We were off with a good start as we were treated to one of the brightest sunsets I had ever seen as the bus made it's way to the glacier.
First, we'd go to a viewpoint on the mountain head directly in front of the glacier. For an hour we wondered the various platforms and viewing desks listening to the creaking glacier lying in front of us. It's enormous! Just check it's stats...
Front width - 4km
Length - 30km
Surface - 257km squared
This glacier is much bigger than the large glacier, Glacier Grey, we saw on the W Trek. It's also very active, moving at 1.7 meters per day in the middle and 0.45 meters on the sides. With thunderous cracks and rumbles, we watched front sections drop off the glacier into the water resulting in swells and ripples emanating and continuing to the shore line. I'm surprised how close the boats, seemingly toy boats in comparison, get to the glacier face. When an ice section breaks, they don't wait around as a large drop could create a wave to topple the boat.
One of these boats took us across, giving a much closer view of this frozen beast. After a briefing we were off for an hour hike along the side of the glacier to the Big Ice equipment camp where we'd start the walk. Crampons fitted to our shoes and harness on, in case of emergency and we were walking on this foreign surface.
Ski resort ice is pretty flat. The surface of a glacier is anything but! Hills, valleys, deep crevices, rivers and lakes awaited us. The surface of the glacier melts each day and refreezes creating these rivers and features. Furthermore the ice isn't all white, but a luminous blue!
The stories of establishing Patagonia's Chile / Argentina border were quite interesting...
1981, an agreement was reached to determine the border lines between Chile and Argentina as the "highest peaks that divided waters". Conflicting points where dividing waters did not exist led to each country interpreted borders differently. 1902 King Henry Edward VII of England arbitrated the problem, bringing an end to the Chilean /Argentinean issue that had reached at a very dangerous point in their relationship. He was presented with land as a gift and he returned it to the government under condition that it be preserved for future generations. His action allowed the creation of the first Argentine National Park.
Framcisco Pascasio Moreno was the Argentine expert called on to give evidence in establishing the border line with Chile. Thereafter, this explorer and natural science specialist, was chosen to lend his name to the giant glacier.
Back to the big trek. We had a lunch at the largest lake, half way out on the glacier, about 2 km in. The group filled water bottles and I felt somewhat like a natural Patagonian water advert model - one of the guides took a photo an emailed it to us, really could be an advertisement.
Post lunch Mands was really struggling with further blisters. This time on her heels and from the new specialist ankle high boots. Each step looked uneasy and it wasn't until the end of the hike when she took her boots off did I see how bad it was - both heels had almost 2 cm raw blisters! You could see from the guides face that they were bad. With additional strapping over the gaping hole, Mandy soldiered on. "No donkey!"
Just before arriving back at the starting camp, there was a huge crack, followed by another and another. The glacier face dropped of chunks of ice, the largest we'd seen. A boat, looking like a toy in comparison, was close to the drop zone and hastily turned away from the resulting ice bergs and swell heading in it's direction. Continuing along the single track path we heard the water now lapping up against the rocks near our pickup. It's like dropping a pebble, a big pebble, in a pond and watching the ripples travel.
Armed with our camera and knitted Peru and Bolivian hats for extra warmth, we looked out to the glacier for another mighty fall. Glacier Moreno let out loud stomach grumbles, but alas, no further splashes.
On our final morning, I made sure I was up before sunrise and had directions to a good viewpoint on the side of the lake to hopefully catch a similar sunrise on camera. Unfortunately a low horizon cloud bank wanted the sunset to itself, however it was a good 2 hours exploring an outer lying area of El Calafate.
Our flight had been pushed back by 7 hours (almost every flight has changed in South America). This would unfortunately cut short our already short time in Buenos Aires, but allowed Mands some much needed flip flop time to help the blisters before ... The Tango.
Showing posts with label Argentina. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Argentina. Show all posts
Sunday, 7 April 2013
Wednesday, 20 March 2013
Argentina - Buenos Aires (tango, futbol, wine and steak)
Our hostel, El Petite Vitraux, had rave reviews and from the moment we walked in we were impressed with Mike and Elena's friendliness and hospitality. They live in Monserrat in a grand building with high ceilings and elegant finishings. They helped us with information about everything we were interested in and booked activities for us. I think Elena was more excited then us about the Tango and Mike nervous about his steak recommendation after hearing about the steak club. Anyway, here's how you do 72 hours in Buenos Aires...
During breakfast we confirmed what we wanted to do, where to go and booked the key items. Our self guided walking tour started mid morning along Avenida 9 de Julio. It's an extremely wide road honouring Argentina's Independence from Spain (1816). It boasts 7 lanes in each direction, lined with trees and shops, a main artery to the heart beat of the city.
Passed the Obelisk and down the touristy pedestrianised streets with touts calling out for us to join their parrilla for lunch. We didn't enjoy this area, but I was able to pick up trousers to tango (both of my travelling trousers have zip off legs, now different colours after several washes) and an Argentinian futbol shirt that would come in handy the next day.
On to Plaza de Mayo where stands the Casa Rosada (The Pink House), the presidential house of Argentina with the famous balcony with Eva Peron (Evita).
Mike had recommended a more local lunch spot, a parilla called El Desnivel, along cobbled streets and in the antique area. I reminded Mands of our "you buy it you carry it" rule as she browsed through.
Cafe Tortoni on Avenida de Mayo, is well over 100 years (opened 1858), and our chosen afternoon tea unwind cafe. The maitre'd showed us towards our table passed some of the original early decor to be greeted by our bow tie'ed waiter. Soon we sipped on the house special hot chocolate and churros (pastry sticks you dip in coffee or hot chocolate) and followed it down with a glass of our new summer afternoon favourite, Torrentes white wine.
Back to change and ready for our tango pickup. We wanted a lesson together with the regular show and dinner. Some of the shows house hundreds of guest in grand affairs, however we were looking for a more intimate option. We found this with Compleje Tango. About 50 people arrived and started off with the lesson. An hour later we were 6 stepping, ocho'ing and throwing tango poses for the camera. I, this always happens, was selected to do a final dance off pose against another couple. I like to think we destroyed them.
Our dinner and show table was right in the middle of the stage so we had great views of the show with lightening fast kicks, sultry poses and almost feel all of the attitude that accompanies a tango. The great food and captivating show wouldn't be complete before again being called on to dance among the dinner tables with one of the leggy performers. I threw out my best moves and poses until after the 3rd blue steel "photo pose", she said that the pose isn't a continual part of the dance, but rather a once off when the camera is out. Tango night was definitely a highlight.
Day 2 started with further walking tours now with a short stop off at Theatro Colon before taxi'ing to the Recoleta Cemetery. An enormous tree greeted us on the lawn outside (Jim from Tango says second largest in the world!) before entering the famous cemetery of Evita and other celebrated Argentinians. Each mausoleum replicated Greek temples, Chapels or similar ambitious structures. Each towers over you in an imposing way. Apparently Evita, who fought for the poor, was not a welcome addition in this super wealthy cemetery, but now her families mausoleum has queues waiting to get a glimpse.
Off across the city to the more affluent and trendy area of Palermo for more wondering and soaking up of Buenos Aires life.
To get to grips with Argentinians you need to experience the true essence of what runs through their veins, yes, football. Luckily there was a international World Cup qualifying futbol match against Venezuela and further luck allowed us to get tickets! We joined a tour and stopped for cervezas and pizza before being dropped at the ground, River Plate Futbol Stadium.
Messi is arguably the best player in the world and captain of the Argentinean team. It was clear from the start that he was the people's champion as every shirt bar two that we saw were number 10 - Messi. Fans chanted his name and the stadium erupted when he assisted in 2 goals and scored one himself. Quite something to watch him play and a great experience to watch the Argentinean passion in the stadium.
With a half day left we visited La Boca, known as the birthplace of Tango. The old shipyard is now full of painted houses and pedestrianised streets play host to tango dancers dancing and posing, for a price. I couldn't help but get a photo with Maradona and got the photo for half the asking price.
So in Buenos Aires we'd drank Argentinian wine, danced the tango, watched a futbol game, so the only thing left was the steak.
Our final adventure took us to an upmarket (not a backpack to be seen) specialist steak restaurant on the docks, Cabana Las Lilas. Mike recommended this as great steak and not touristy as some of the other known steak houses. As it was a hot sunny day, we chose to sit out on the deck and sipped on a cool glass of Torrentes wine I selected from the 100 page wine menu and enjoyed our included-in-the-cover-charge starters (at a price). We ordered mains and decided on a Malbec to complement. The steaks arrived looking great with their cow shaped labels showing how they had been cooked. I ordered the ojo de bife (rib-eye), muy jugoso (very juicy aka rare) and Mands the Bife de chorizo (sirloin), jugoso (juicy aka medium rare). Argentinians tend to cook it medium / medium well if you don't specify. Well, Mandy's sirloin was the best she'd ever eaten in a restaurant and would be in my top 5! My rib-eye was good, but definitely trumped by that sirloin.
Getting back at the hostel, Mike opened the door and I could see his look of anticipation on how we enjoyed the steak. I decided to mess with him saying it was very regular before coming out with the good news. He was one relieved man.
We did well painting Beunos Aires red , but definitely have some unfinished business in Argentina. We're still to find the little known steak cafe with the magic formula, get a grip on mate and watch a Pumas rugby game. We've done well for now, so don't cry for me Argentina!
PS. We are still struggling to say Buenos Aires correctly without the Aires sounding like a pirate. Arrrr
Sunday, 17 March 2013
Argentina - Mendoza
A long 18 hour, but super comfortable magic (large leather cama seats, movies, drinks and meals) bus later, we were almost in Mendoza from Salta. I couldn't believe how popular size of the highway asado's (bbq's) were. It was a Sunday and every kilometre or so, there was a small public hut with asado facilities and all of them were used - right there in the middle of nowhere. Meat is serious business here. It reminded me of when I was younger in South Africa and stopping of the side of the road for a picnic to break up a long journey - pitty, not sure anyone does this anymore.
Probably only a 5 minute cheap taxi ride away we arrived at Hostel Lao. Lizzie had recommended it and Mands booked ages ago. Even so we had the first night in a shared dorm and next two nights back in a double. A shared dorm is a great way to meet people, but the benefits stop there. The hostel is really good with friendly well informed staff and large well kept common areas and garden with hammocks, bed loungers and pool. Probably makes our top 3 hostels.
In the afternoon we caught a tourist bus for a trip around the largest park I've ever seen, Parque St Martin. It's got everything, a logoa with rowing regatta on when we were there, football stadium, bmx tracks, zoo, theatre, rugby/hockey/football, cafe's and acres of trees and grass areas. Being a Sunday, families picnicked all around - many had tables and chairs with them and everyone had their thermos for matte (tea). We'd learnt about customs and rules for drinking matte so picked up on these being put into action. Everyone says the English drink lots of tea, but they have nothing on the Argentinians who are never without a thermos at their side and their special cup and metal straw.
On our way back we walked through the bustling main plaza, Plaza Indepencia. It too was large and craft stalls ran along the paths showing off their wares including, jewellery, leather goods, wine holders, home industries foods and jams. We stopped close by for a sundowner of Andes Cerveca (1 litre, they come big) and Mands ordered a suggested Argentinean rum and coke that tasted like minty mouth wash.
Aristdes Villaneuva is a great street with wide sidewalks and lined with bars and restaurants. Chairs and tables dominated the pavement with a vibey feel from the conversations of hundreds of revellers. We stopped for a glass of wine and barley wine beer before settling down at a restaurant under the oak trees and shared a steak with mushroom sauce.
The new day brought on excitement for the very reason Mendoza is famous, wine. We bussed out to collect bicycles from Baccus bike tours and map for the wine route. The itinerary scheduled 5 stops, but were having such an interesting time at the 3rd we didn't make the other two.
On our bicycles, we headed out down the oak liked road between vineyards and a stunning snow capped Andes mountain range as a backdrop. A few wrong turns added half an hour on to our twenty minute first leg, but some local guidance brought us back on track.
1) Carmelo Patty - small producer. The famous wine maker who has produced one of the top 10 wines in the world in 2010, his Cabernet Sauvignon. Arriving, we were greater by a grey haired, Spanish only speaking man and taken to the adjacent room to taste some wine. Magazines and photos lay all around and soon we realised we were with Carmelo Patty himself. We had heavy handed servings of three of his wines and learnt about his process, timings and temperatures. For instance his merlot should be poured into a cravat for an hour, the cravat placed on ice to bring it's temperature down to 15 to 18 degrees and served after an hour. The tasting was for free and we were pleasantly surprised that he provided personal attention like that for us. Apparently his wine is available in the UK under the Pappas label. We've a nice photo of us and Carmelo.
2) Lagarde - large producer. This cost P$30 and included tour and tasting. An experienced sommelier (wine specialist) took us round. It's harvesting time, so we were luckily enough to see grapes being loaded for the start of the winery process, de-stalking. With a suction, grapes are then removed from the stalks and the stalks shredded. We learnt about the French oak and American oak barrels and how few uses each barrel has. Premium wines get first use, then standard wines, then supermarket wines. French oak costs €1,200 and after it's used, sold for P$200 (€45). We learnt about their top wine, Henry, and many other really interesting facts. A further 3 wines and we were, as mum would say, on our bicycles.
We found an unmarked road leading through a vineyard, so headed down it - amazing scenery. No one was picking over lunch time, so we headed on.
3) Pulmary, an all organic wine producer. A lady took us on the small winery tour into the old basement concrete vats and gave us wines along the tour. She kept on responding to our questions with I and again we figured out that we were with the actual wine maker! A Swiss couple and us spent over an hour talking to her. 16 years ago they wanted to do something new and by chance landed up in wine - her husband is a lawyer and helped out someone and didn't ask for any money in return. The person they had helped later came and dropped of cases and cases of premium wine - as their pallets matured so their interest grew. They bought land and started growing from scratch. 5 years to sell the first bottle, 10 years vineyard break even, will take 20 years to pay off the winery, 5 family members full or part time involved and 4 full time employees. The most important advice she was given when starting was (1) live near your vineyards, they need constant attention (2) in the winery, the detail matters.
The Swiss couple were doing their 3rd round the world travel year! We bought a bottle of Pulmary's blend and shared traveller tales. Their best story is about laundry in China... At one hostel/hotel they asked whether they could get their laundry done. Yes was the response and they should wait in there room for 10 minutes first. They thought it strange, but 10 minutes later there was a knock on the door. Roger opened and their they stood with a washing machine. They had carried it up the steps and now plugged and plumbed it into their room to allow the travellers to do their own laundry - a complete misunderstanding!
Well after bike hire drop off time we eventually returned the bikes and bussed back into Mendoza's centre after a great day.
Don Mario (Dorrego) steakhouse was recommended by our hostel and Trip Advisor as the best grill. When we arrived it was a fancier place than we had imagined and got right into our shared Bife de Chorizo chips and salad (palm hearts, avo and tomato). Wow 7 cm high steak! I've not had a steak that thick before. Brown roasting on the outside and pink with plenty of blood on the inside. They grill the meat on a lower heat and for much longer that what I'm familiar with. And result... Enjoyable steak, but unfortunately not close to top 10.
Our final full day in Mendoza was spent initially exploring plazas, small Plaza Espana being the best. We bought a picnic lunch of salami, cheese, olives and Torentes wine.
We walked back to Parque St Martin and set up next to lagoon we'd seen the regatta at previously. We watched joggers, cyclists and roller bladers pass as we sipped, ate, red and slept our way through the afternoon.
That evening, Mands was feeling a little steaked out, but convinced her for one last outing - I think the wine and a few beers along the people watching pedestrianised Paseo Sarmiento helped.
We picked a restaurant along Avenue Sarmiento purely based on size and quantity of meat on display in the window fronted kitchen. Mands had the bife de fillet and I had the buffet de lomo. Much better both steaks than the previous night, but again similar grilling method and thick steaks. Perhaps such thick steaks need this time. I have learnt that from ordering to eating, expect one hour. I'll add this to my steak knowledge.
I take away from Mendoza that the people are friendly and happy to help, the wine is good, the city is a pleasure to visit and they like their rugby (took all of 1 minute for a waiter to talk about the Springboks).
The next morning was the impressive Andes bus border crossing into Chile, to Santiago, Lizzie and Felipe!
Probably only a 5 minute cheap taxi ride away we arrived at Hostel Lao. Lizzie had recommended it and Mands booked ages ago. Even so we had the first night in a shared dorm and next two nights back in a double. A shared dorm is a great way to meet people, but the benefits stop there. The hostel is really good with friendly well informed staff and large well kept common areas and garden with hammocks, bed loungers and pool. Probably makes our top 3 hostels.
In the afternoon we caught a tourist bus for a trip around the largest park I've ever seen, Parque St Martin. It's got everything, a logoa with rowing regatta on when we were there, football stadium, bmx tracks, zoo, theatre, rugby/hockey/football, cafe's and acres of trees and grass areas. Being a Sunday, families picnicked all around - many had tables and chairs with them and everyone had their thermos for matte (tea). We'd learnt about customs and rules for drinking matte so picked up on these being put into action. Everyone says the English drink lots of tea, but they have nothing on the Argentinians who are never without a thermos at their side and their special cup and metal straw.
On our way back we walked through the bustling main plaza, Plaza Indepencia. It too was large and craft stalls ran along the paths showing off their wares including, jewellery, leather goods, wine holders, home industries foods and jams. We stopped close by for a sundowner of Andes Cerveca (1 litre, they come big) and Mands ordered a suggested Argentinean rum and coke that tasted like minty mouth wash.
Aristdes Villaneuva is a great street with wide sidewalks and lined with bars and restaurants. Chairs and tables dominated the pavement with a vibey feel from the conversations of hundreds of revellers. We stopped for a glass of wine and barley wine beer before settling down at a restaurant under the oak trees and shared a steak with mushroom sauce.
The new day brought on excitement for the very reason Mendoza is famous, wine. We bussed out to collect bicycles from Baccus bike tours and map for the wine route. The itinerary scheduled 5 stops, but were having such an interesting time at the 3rd we didn't make the other two.
On our bicycles, we headed out down the oak liked road between vineyards and a stunning snow capped Andes mountain range as a backdrop. A few wrong turns added half an hour on to our twenty minute first leg, but some local guidance brought us back on track.
1) Carmelo Patty - small producer. The famous wine maker who has produced one of the top 10 wines in the world in 2010, his Cabernet Sauvignon. Arriving, we were greater by a grey haired, Spanish only speaking man and taken to the adjacent room to taste some wine. Magazines and photos lay all around and soon we realised we were with Carmelo Patty himself. We had heavy handed servings of three of his wines and learnt about his process, timings and temperatures. For instance his merlot should be poured into a cravat for an hour, the cravat placed on ice to bring it's temperature down to 15 to 18 degrees and served after an hour. The tasting was for free and we were pleasantly surprised that he provided personal attention like that for us. Apparently his wine is available in the UK under the Pappas label. We've a nice photo of us and Carmelo.
2) Lagarde - large producer. This cost P$30 and included tour and tasting. An experienced sommelier (wine specialist) took us round. It's harvesting time, so we were luckily enough to see grapes being loaded for the start of the winery process, de-stalking. With a suction, grapes are then removed from the stalks and the stalks shredded. We learnt about the French oak and American oak barrels and how few uses each barrel has. Premium wines get first use, then standard wines, then supermarket wines. French oak costs €1,200 and after it's used, sold for P$200 (€45). We learnt about their top wine, Henry, and many other really interesting facts. A further 3 wines and we were, as mum would say, on our bicycles.
We found an unmarked road leading through a vineyard, so headed down it - amazing scenery. No one was picking over lunch time, so we headed on.
3) Pulmary, an all organic wine producer. A lady took us on the small winery tour into the old basement concrete vats and gave us wines along the tour. She kept on responding to our questions with I and again we figured out that we were with the actual wine maker! A Swiss couple and us spent over an hour talking to her. 16 years ago they wanted to do something new and by chance landed up in wine - her husband is a lawyer and helped out someone and didn't ask for any money in return. The person they had helped later came and dropped of cases and cases of premium wine - as their pallets matured so their interest grew. They bought land and started growing from scratch. 5 years to sell the first bottle, 10 years vineyard break even, will take 20 years to pay off the winery, 5 family members full or part time involved and 4 full time employees. The most important advice she was given when starting was (1) live near your vineyards, they need constant attention (2) in the winery, the detail matters.
The Swiss couple were doing their 3rd round the world travel year! We bought a bottle of Pulmary's blend and shared traveller tales. Their best story is about laundry in China... At one hostel/hotel they asked whether they could get their laundry done. Yes was the response and they should wait in there room for 10 minutes first. They thought it strange, but 10 minutes later there was a knock on the door. Roger opened and their they stood with a washing machine. They had carried it up the steps and now plugged and plumbed it into their room to allow the travellers to do their own laundry - a complete misunderstanding!
Well after bike hire drop off time we eventually returned the bikes and bussed back into Mendoza's centre after a great day.
Don Mario (Dorrego) steakhouse was recommended by our hostel and Trip Advisor as the best grill. When we arrived it was a fancier place than we had imagined and got right into our shared Bife de Chorizo chips and salad (palm hearts, avo and tomato). Wow 7 cm high steak! I've not had a steak that thick before. Brown roasting on the outside and pink with plenty of blood on the inside. They grill the meat on a lower heat and for much longer that what I'm familiar with. And result... Enjoyable steak, but unfortunately not close to top 10.
Our final full day in Mendoza was spent initially exploring plazas, small Plaza Espana being the best. We bought a picnic lunch of salami, cheese, olives and Torentes wine.
We walked back to Parque St Martin and set up next to lagoon we'd seen the regatta at previously. We watched joggers, cyclists and roller bladers pass as we sipped, ate, red and slept our way through the afternoon.
That evening, Mands was feeling a little steaked out, but convinced her for one last outing - I think the wine and a few beers along the people watching pedestrianised Paseo Sarmiento helped.
We picked a restaurant along Avenue Sarmiento purely based on size and quantity of meat on display in the window fronted kitchen. Mands had the bife de fillet and I had the buffet de lomo. Much better both steaks than the previous night, but again similar grilling method and thick steaks. Perhaps such thick steaks need this time. I have learnt that from ordering to eating, expect one hour. I'll add this to my steak knowledge.
I take away from Mendoza that the people are friendly and happy to help, the wine is good, the city is a pleasure to visit and they like their rugby (took all of 1 minute for a waiter to talk about the Springboks).
The next morning was the impressive Andes bus border crossing into Chile, to Santiago, Lizzie and Felipe!
Tuesday, 12 March 2013
Argentina - Cafayate
We didn't have a hostel booked, but were really happy with our second viewing at Rusky-K with it's wide courtyard, grapevines and friendly atmosphere. The first hostel we looked at had a double with no outside windows.
Lunch was empanadas and salami on the main plaza, before Mands headed back for some downtime and I went exploring around town.
TripAdvisor rated a wine tasting shop, Chato's, off the main plaza highly for it's informative sommelier owner. Mands and I wondered around town before landing up there for a tasting of Cafayate's finest and another cold meats and olives platter. We learnt about the regions unique grape and wine, Torrentes. This white is known as The Liar as it's aroma is sweet, hiding the dryer taste below. We had a few of these across Argentina, a good summer afternoon choice. The owner rater South African Pinotage when he heard where we were from. He gave us two recommendations for wineries we'd visit cycling the next day.
Midmorning, after picking up the bikes we headed out on our wine tour. Passing the plaza, I said hello in by best Spanish to a street dog crossing the road (yes, sounds a little odd). The dog seemed to respond and then led us out of the town and along the road. The winery is 2 km out of town and this dog ran along with us the whole way. Normally Mands is the one dogs sniff out, but this time it was me. Quite taken by this I recorded a video of our pack making our way along the road.
At the winery / bodega we had 10 minutes before the tour, so our new friend gulped down some hosepipe water and found a place next to our bikes to wait for us to finish out tour. Etchart, is a larger winery and a knowledgable sommelier took us around in Spanish - we are now following a good deal of conversation, and where we look a little confused she repeats in English. The really informative tour was topped off with a 5 wine tasting, all for free. All of the wines are good here. Here I also learnt what Mands would come to despise, the way to properly enjoy your wine, bringing out all the aroma and flavour (lots of swirling and a aerating noises followed by a deep breath - I would do this for each sip in the coming days).
Our new friend rand back to town with us before deciding the 5km winery sounded a bit far and let us head off alone.
Finca de Las Nubes farm housed a small vineyard and winery. It had great views from the base of the mountain across the vineyard and over the town. Although only 5 km, we sweated it up the dust road climb and luckily I had a change of shirt on hand.
I ordered a bottle of their finest along with a lunch platter that we could ease through during the afternoon. It's so much more relaxed than South African more luxury high end vineyards.
We ended up staying the whole afternoon and well passed closing time. We bought another Torrentes and lazed the sun down - intermittently interrupted by their excited about chewing puppy.
We again headed to the plaza for an evening "knertsie" when Hola, our wine tour dog, arrived to have a snooze next to us. The plaza is beautiful at night with the church lit up and the yellow lights eliminating the trees. We've been through a few towns and cities now and the South American's have got it right with plazas. They are well maintained and regularly used by old, young, locals and travellers alike.
Mands and I strolled around the plaza and I bought my leather cased steak knife, fork and knife sharpening rod as an Argentinean memento. Steak club is going to be impressed.
Opposite our hostel was a really popular more local diner we tried. We ordered some empanadas and humitas (corn bread wrapped in maize leaves). Didn't realise we'd get 12 empanadas for P$25 (£3) so we could take some for lunch for our tour tomorrow - they keep really well.
We left this town taking fond memories and headed out to do the Quebrada de Cafayate (sandstone formations) tour and continue to Salta. More about that in a separate post.
Mi gusta Cafayate.
Sunday, 10 March 2013
Argentina - Sayta horse riding Ranch
The ranch organised a pickup in Salta where we'd meet others heading out for a day's horse riding. We joined them at camping grounds and a huge overland adventure truck was parked next to the tents. Getting into the mini bus I said to Mands that I was glad we weren't in that camping tour through South America. The Welsh guy next to us said yes, it had been tough going ... the minibus was full of people from the overland tour! I managed to take my foot out of my mouth during the transfer and find out about their tour - they sometimes travelled 2 days straight and one brother booked him and his sister on the tour not realising they would be in a truck and camping each night!
We were warmly greeted by Laura and Kylie together with their dogs, McKay their massive Argentine Doggo cross Labrador and Moody the endless energy weimaraner.
Straight onto the saddles for our first ride. We walked through fields of tabacco plants and tobacco drying sheds and across a river. Mands had her hands full with a horse that was intent on eating at every opportunity. It had been a leisurely start until we reached a grass plain and were taken for a gallop - the gauchos would gallop next to our horse holding our horses' harness to control him. You could really feel the power of those horses. I was over the walking and got the group trotting back to the ranch, an easy start to the riding. A less easy dismount as I could barely walk for a couple of minutes until my legs straightened.
Lunch was quite something. One of the Gaucho's, nicknamed Pollo, was the assador (bbq'er). With gauchos, guests and staff there were 20 of us but enough meat, salads and wine for 40. Round after round of meat came out, each with a heavy handed topup of wine. A good 3/4 bottle of wine later it was time for further riding!
This time everyone had more courage (liquid) on the horses. Mands and I led the canter'ing through the fields, now on a different trail and then walked up a stream. Again further galloping, led by the gaucho's and back to the ranch.
Our cabin was their really nice matrimonial room. After 5 hours of horse riding and wine, I hit the hay and Mands curled up with her book. (Wow Mands reads a lot- I now refer to her as eating books as each only lasts 2 to 3 days).
Kylie made us dinner and joined us. We chatted over 3 more bottles of wine and then retired to the pitch black, dead quiet night (avoiding all of the frogs between the main house and the cabin).
A similar day awaited us with 2 rides and enormous lunch. This time however the riders were more experienced and we opted to gallop ourselves, unaided by the gauchos. It's amazing running with these horses! Back in over cautious UK, we'd still be walking, wrapped in safety armour.
One couple were doing a similar route to us in South America, but with a 11 month old baby! Hats off to them.
Lunch was again great and wine flowed. The group was chatting up a storm for the second ride. Mands was riding behind one girl very much post-vino slouched to one side in the saddle. I was the only guy riding now with the group of good looking girls and must have been the envy of a group of road workers who came to a standstill as we trotted through.
Another good night chatting.
Our parents, Clive, Erica and Gerry had arranged for wedding anniversary cards to be sent to the ranch. Huge thank you for the efforts for this, we both really appreciated this. Unfortunately the post hadn't arrived by the time we had to leave, so Laura is going to forward it onto London.
Before we left to go catch our next bus, we were treated to Laura's son fighting imaginary bad guys on the back of the red pick up - dialogue, invisible special weapons, actions and all. Good to see this as it's how I grew up!
Luckily we could pick up the bus to Cafayate from a small town close to the ranch rather than going back to Salta and returning on the same road. The road to Cafayate was quite a site twisting and turning through the red mountains that themselves was a tour we'd return to to walk through the wind chiseled sculpture, but for now we were off for the wine area of Cafayate.
Saturday, 9 March 2013
Argentina - Salta
Our Salta adventure started a day later than hoped. The plan from Puerto Iguacu, was to take a 22 hour bus ride to Tucuman, then book onto the next "leaves every hour" bus for the 4 hour final leg to Salta. In short... The bus ride to Tucuman took 26 hours (with no announcements and little food and drink - AndesMar Bus), arriving at 11:30 PM; the next bus to Salta was in 4 hours and in heavy rain, so we decided to book into a Lonely Planet hotel option; 2 hour queue to get a taxi best described as organised chaos; the hotel name had changed, prices doubled, the reception man must have been close to 100 years old, which is younger than the last time the hotel had any modernisation, and I might as well have been an alien trying to ask for wifi/Internet/google.
Finally, we were on a bus (best we've been on - VIP cama with AndesMar) to Salta. An interesting flamboyant guy from Salta started a conversation with us and continued on intermittently throughout the trip - his must do recommendation was to go and see the aliens in Cachi! Hmmm, maybe I could send the old man from the hotel reception there to teach him about the Internet.
On arriving we walked along the park towards the main plaza and stopped at small restaurant with tables on the pavement for their special of pizza and beer, 1 litre beers here. We took in the sights and sounds with an impressive red cathedral as a backdrop.
It was our 1 year marriage anniversary, so we'd look for somewhere nicer to stay in Salta. We walked a few blocks to the main plaza passing a park with people chilling on benches and home made biscuits, sweet (dulce) popcorn , and some handcrafts. Here we could sip on amber nectar, the local Cerveca Salta, sitting at a sidewalk restaurant and look up hostel options.
Hotel Angel was was a converted house, full of character and colonially decorated. Our room was large enough to swing a few cats and had balcony leading off.
A few weeks back I posted a travel forum question about the best steakhouse in Argentina (thorn tree, part of lonely planet). I had many responses and two were in Salta. I chose Viejo Jack's, the less main stream of the two.
A friendly reception awaited us to take us through the bamboo decorated eating hall to select our table. I asked for their best table and it was behind a pillar out of view of the TV, but with views of the street. Many less formal eateries in Argentina have TVs mounted and playing at a significant volume for patrons and staff to "enjoy" (!?!). Not the most romantic of anniversary atmospheres, but would the steak make up for it? We went round to speak to the chef who showed off the cuts of meat (so different looking to UK / SA cuts), and posed for some photos. The slower grilled steak arrived just in time for our second glass of good recommended wine. Thank goodness the waiter said the portions are large and we should share, the 750g whopper arrived. We shared it, with Mands not able to even finish her half! The whole meal and wine cost P$200 (£25 for two people), so beaks the scale for value for money. The steak was enjoyable, but doesn't edge into all time top ten.
A great memorable meal and good first anniversary. I so look forward to our future years, x.
In the morning, we were picked up for horse riding. We were staying 2 nights at a recommended ranch, Sayta Ranch, an hour from Salta. It was good horse riding, great food, fantastic service and friendly. More on that in another post.
From the ranch we would head onto Cafayate, a fantastic rustic town and centre of this small regions wine.
We would return to Salta for half a day and have another opportunity for some steak.
Finally, we were on a bus (best we've been on - VIP cama with AndesMar) to Salta. An interesting flamboyant guy from Salta started a conversation with us and continued on intermittently throughout the trip - his must do recommendation was to go and see the aliens in Cachi! Hmmm, maybe I could send the old man from the hotel reception there to teach him about the Internet.
On arriving we walked along the park towards the main plaza and stopped at small restaurant with tables on the pavement for their special of pizza and beer, 1 litre beers here. We took in the sights and sounds with an impressive red cathedral as a backdrop.
It was our 1 year marriage anniversary, so we'd look for somewhere nicer to stay in Salta. We walked a few blocks to the main plaza passing a park with people chilling on benches and home made biscuits, sweet (dulce) popcorn , and some handcrafts. Here we could sip on amber nectar, the local Cerveca Salta, sitting at a sidewalk restaurant and look up hostel options.
Hotel Angel was was a converted house, full of character and colonially decorated. Our room was large enough to swing a few cats and had balcony leading off.
A few weeks back I posted a travel forum question about the best steakhouse in Argentina (thorn tree, part of lonely planet). I had many responses and two were in Salta. I chose Viejo Jack's, the less main stream of the two.
A friendly reception awaited us to take us through the bamboo decorated eating hall to select our table. I asked for their best table and it was behind a pillar out of view of the TV, but with views of the street. Many less formal eateries in Argentina have TVs mounted and playing at a significant volume for patrons and staff to "enjoy" (!?!). Not the most romantic of anniversary atmospheres, but would the steak make up for it? We went round to speak to the chef who showed off the cuts of meat (so different looking to UK / SA cuts), and posed for some photos. The slower grilled steak arrived just in time for our second glass of good recommended wine. Thank goodness the waiter said the portions are large and we should share, the 750g whopper arrived. We shared it, with Mands not able to even finish her half! The whole meal and wine cost P$200 (£25 for two people), so beaks the scale for value for money. The steak was enjoyable, but doesn't edge into all time top ten.
A great memorable meal and good first anniversary. I so look forward to our future years, x.
In the morning, we were picked up for horse riding. We were staying 2 nights at a recommended ranch, Sayta Ranch, an hour from Salta. It was good horse riding, great food, fantastic service and friendly. More on that in another post.
From the ranch we would head onto Cafayate, a fantastic rustic town and centre of this small regions wine.
We would return to Salta for half a day and have another opportunity for some steak.
Brazil & Argentina - Iguacu Falls
The falls border three countries... Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay. We'd be visiting the first two, being the main attractions.
We took the local bus into the town and with no hostel booked, we went in search for one. I decided one one, the first I've chosen the whole holiday - my wife does a masterful job at this so I usually watch from the sideline. Phew, it passed. And it had really good wifi in the room - many places have had no wifi or only available in the reception area.
The hostel told us about a rodizio grill, Buffalo Bronco, two blocks away where we could get a discount and great food. More about that great meal in a separate post.
We caught the 120 local bus to arrive just before the national park opens. We entered the bus station correctly through the ticket booth this time - yesterday we walked in on the side of the road that's a very open entrance, but were descended upon in a Royal Marine like attack by the security guard. Can't believe how cheap the busses are.
Our backpacks were with us as we'd head straight over the border to Argentina. After a good game of tetris, we puzzled our 2 backpacks, 1 daypack and the rolled up painting from Salvador into the one locker.
An open top bus took us to the start of the one kilometre walk along the falls to wards Garganta do Diablo (Devil's Throat). From the first lookout area, the falls were impressive. The river flows down and then along the side of the drop points creating the cataratus (falls) a good kilometre long.
As we walked along the trail the waterfalls grew in size (width) and ferocity. specialist boats offering water tours were dwarfed by the powerful cataratus. We could see people one the Argentina side who were mere specs, but have real perspective on the height of the falls.
Along the path, we saw a 2 meter black and yellow tree snake some tourists had spotted, before the The Devil's Throat appeared - quite fitting. It is truly impressive.
A viewing platform is built out over the falls half way up. We covered the camera in a plastic bag, put the waterproof cover on the day pack and headed out on the platform. The water crashes down and creates a mist or even rain that hits you side on. In a couple of minutes we were drenched. With the mist, amazing rainbows are created with the sun penetrating through.
Still soaked we walked on to the lunch area next to the start of the falls. Initially an exciting find, the raccoon like animals quickly turned into the devil's pets as they tormented those having lunch. We could see how this happened with some visitors giving them food where clear signs police against it. One crazy mother held her baby next to these wild animals for a close up photo!
Instead of catching the bus straight away, we walked back along the train to get to see the great waterfalls and glad we did as we got tom see another perspective as we walked.
We negotiated the taxi driver down to our expected tariff to drive us through the Brazilian boarded to the Argentinean border (great tip from the hostel instead of taking bus after bus through each stage). Before long I was standing on Argentinean soil! A local bus that lucking accepted Bolivian Reals took us into the Argentinean side town of Puerto Iguazú.
Mands took control of hostel booking again, booking us into a small converted house with a pool. After posting off same items to the UK (including Miguel, the painting from Salvador, I'd accidentally left at the bank 5 minutes earlier), we cooled off in the pool.
Now refreshed, we were ready for our first Argentinian parrilla. These grills are served on a steel tray with coals underneath to keep it hot and include pork sausage, black pudding, beef ribs, chicken, kidneys and stuffed small intestine - all went down well except for the stuffed small intestine, one bight was enough as I couldn't work out what it was stuffed with! Parrilla's are available throughout Argentina, but will be sticking to straight meat form here out.
Iguazú Falls day, Argentinean side day. A local bus took us out and we joined the short entrance queue. Good to see there are discounted rates for Argentinians and interestingly, further discounts for those living in the province and also discounts for neighbouring countries. South Africa really needs to be doing more of this.
You have to take the world's slowest train to the central station and then a mother train to the Devil's Throat. We met Nick, a young South African doctor in the queue and had a good catch up with him and his interesting national service stories about bullets and machetes.
The Devil's Throat was heaving with people. We shuffled along to get views and for photos. The different view further shows the river demonstrating it's power. The water spray here was much stronger than the Brazilian side so we were soaked in seconds.
A train back to central station and we headed out along the trails towards the Jungle Tour start point. This was the boart ride that that takes you right up to the falls.
The boat was the largest semi-rigid inflatable I'd ever seen. It had seating for forty people and the captain had a specially built two meter hight platform at the back of the boat to get his advantage point. We were taken to two waterfall points first for photo time and then right into the spray and the waterfall base. What power! We had to close our eyes at stages with the water lashing across. The closer he got to the falls, the more the boat would cheer, egging him on. It's a short powerful 15 minutes, but worth every Peso!
In the afternoon we walked the upper circuit, along the top of the waterfalls and again incredible rainbows encircled each waterfall.
The final waterfall had an unexpected "treat" waiting, an older man was sitting in his underwear, legs crossed, meditating and rocking forwards and backwards. Of course I snuck up and had a photo in front of him.
Now which side is better to visit? It's worth visiting both, but not to sit on the fence on this one, I'd choose to walk on the Brazilian side if only doing one.
Back at the hostel we cooled off again with a swim, Mands had her last play with the kitten an we headed off for a pizza, before the start of our longest, coldest, hungriest bus ride ever...
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