Argentina - Sayta horse riding Ranch

Sayta Ranch is an hour from Salta. We booked for 2 nights on the ranch and would have two days of horse riding to learn to ride like a Gaucho.

The ranch organised a pickup in Salta where we'd meet others heading out for a day's horse riding. We joined them at camping grounds and a huge overland adventure truck was parked next to the tents. Getting into the mini bus I said to Mands that I was glad we weren't in that camping tour through South America. The Welsh guy next to us said yes, it had been tough going ... the minibus was full of people from the overland tour! I managed to take my foot out of my mouth during the transfer and find out about their tour - they sometimes travelled 2 days straight and one brother booked him and his sister on the tour not realising they would be in a truck and camping each night!

We were warmly greeted by Laura and Kylie together with their dogs, McKay their massive Argentine Doggo cross Labrador and Moody the endless energy weimaraner.

Straight onto the saddles for our first ride. We walked through fields of tabacco plants and tobacco drying sheds and across a river. Mands had her hands full with a horse that was intent on eating at every opportunity. It had been a leisurely start until we reached a grass plain and were taken for a gallop - the gauchos would gallop next to our horse holding our horses' harness to control him. You could really feel the power of those horses. I was over the walking and got the group trotting back to the ranch, an easy start to the riding. A less easy dismount as I could barely walk for a couple of minutes until my legs straightened.

Lunch was quite something. One of the Gaucho's, nicknamed Pollo, was the assador (bbq'er). With gauchos, guests and staff there were 20 of us but enough meat, salads and wine for 40. Round after round of meat came out, each with a heavy handed topup of wine. A good 3/4 bottle of wine later it was time for further riding!

This time everyone had more courage (liquid) on the horses. Mands and I led the canter'ing through the fields, now on a different trail and then walked up a stream. Again further galloping, led by the gaucho's and back to the ranch.

Our cabin was their really nice matrimonial room. After 5 hours of horse riding and wine, I hit the hay and Mands curled up with her book. (Wow Mands reads a lot- I now refer to her as eating books as each only lasts 2 to 3 days).

Kylie made us dinner and joined us. We chatted over 3 more bottles of wine and then retired to the pitch black, dead quiet night (avoiding all of the frogs between the main house and the cabin).

A similar day awaited us with 2 rides and enormous lunch. This time however the riders were more experienced and we opted to gallop ourselves, unaided by the gauchos. It's amazing running with these horses! Back in over cautious UK, we'd still be walking, wrapped in safety armour.

One couple were doing a similar route to us in South America, but with a 11 month old baby! Hats off to them.

Lunch was again great and wine flowed. The group was chatting up a storm for the second ride. Mands was riding behind one girl very much post-vino slouched to one side in the saddle. I was the only guy riding now with the group of good looking girls and must have been the envy of a group of road workers who came to a standstill as we trotted through.

Another good night chatting.

Our parents, Clive, Erica and Gerry had arranged for wedding anniversary cards to be sent to the ranch. Huge thank you for the efforts for this, we both really appreciated this. Unfortunately the post hadn't arrived by the time we had to leave, so Laura is going to forward it onto London.

Before we left to go catch our next bus, we were treated to Laura's son fighting imaginary bad guys on the back of the red pick up - dialogue, invisible special weapons, actions and all. Good to see this as it's how I grew up!

Luckily we could pick up the bus to Cafayate from a small town close to the ranch rather than going back to Salta and returning on the same road. The road to Cafayate was quite a site twisting and turning through the red mountains that themselves was a tour we'd return to to walk through the wind chiseled sculpture, but for now we were off for the wine area of Cafayate.

Argentina - Salta

Our Salta adventure started a day later than hoped. The plan from Puerto Iguacu, was to take a 22 hour bus ride to Tucuman, then book onto the next "leaves every hour" bus for the 4 hour final leg to Salta. In short... The bus ride to Tucuman took 26 hours (with no announcements and little food and drink - AndesMar Bus), arriving at 11:30 PM; the next bus to Salta was in 4 hours and in heavy rain, so we decided to book into a Lonely Planet hotel option; 2 hour queue to get a taxi best described as organised chaos; the hotel name had changed, prices doubled, the reception man must have been close to 100 years old, which is younger than the last time the hotel had any modernisation, and I might as well have been an alien trying to ask for wifi/Internet/google.

Finally, we were on a bus (best we've been on - VIP cama with AndesMar) to Salta. An interesting flamboyant guy from Salta started a conversation with us and continued on intermittently throughout the trip - his must do recommendation was to go and see the aliens in Cachi! Hmmm, maybe I could send the old man from the hotel reception there to teach him about the Internet.

On arriving we walked along the park towards the main plaza and stopped at small restaurant with tables on the pavement for their special of pizza and beer, 1 litre beers here. We took in the sights and sounds with an impressive red cathedral as a backdrop.

It was our 1 year marriage anniversary, so we'd look for somewhere nicer to stay in Salta. We walked a few blocks to the main plaza passing a park with people chilling on benches and home made biscuits, sweet (dulce) popcorn , and some handcrafts. Here we could sip on amber nectar, the local Cerveca Salta, sitting at a sidewalk restaurant and look up hostel options.

Hotel Angel was was a converted house, full of character and colonially decorated. Our room was large enough to swing a few cats and had balcony leading off.

A few weeks back I posted a travel forum question about the best steakhouse in Argentina (thorn tree, part of lonely planet). I had many responses and two were in Salta. I chose Viejo Jack's, the less main stream of the two.

A friendly reception awaited us to take us through the bamboo decorated eating hall to select our table. I asked for their best table and it was behind a pillar out of view of the TV, but with views of the street. Many less formal eateries in Argentina have TVs mounted and playing at a significant volume for patrons and staff to "enjoy" (!?!). Not the most romantic of anniversary atmospheres, but would the steak make up for it? We went round to speak to the chef who showed off the cuts of meat (so different looking to UK / SA cuts), and posed for some photos. The slower grilled steak arrived just in time for our second glass of good recommended wine. Thank goodness the waiter said the portions are large and we should share, the 750g whopper arrived. We shared it, with Mands not able to even finish her half! The whole meal and wine cost P$200 (£25 for two people), so beaks the scale for value for money. The steak was enjoyable, but doesn't edge into all time top ten.

A great memorable meal and good first anniversary. I so look forward to our future years, x.

In the morning, we were picked up for horse riding. We were staying 2 nights at a recommended ranch, Sayta Ranch, an hour from Salta. It was good horse riding, great food, fantastic service and friendly. More on that in another post.

From the ranch we would head onto Cafayate, a fantastic rustic town and centre of this small regions wine.

We would return to Salta for half a day and have another opportunity for some steak.