Argentina - Salta

Our Salta adventure started a day later than hoped. The plan from Puerto Iguacu, was to take a 22 hour bus ride to Tucuman, then book onto the next "leaves every hour" bus for the 4 hour final leg to Salta. In short... The bus ride to Tucuman took 26 hours (with no announcements and little food and drink - AndesMar Bus), arriving at 11:30 PM; the next bus to Salta was in 4 hours and in heavy rain, so we decided to book into a Lonely Planet hotel option; 2 hour queue to get a taxi best described as organised chaos; the hotel name had changed, prices doubled, the reception man must have been close to 100 years old, which is younger than the last time the hotel had any modernisation, and I might as well have been an alien trying to ask for wifi/Internet/google.

Finally, we were on a bus (best we've been on - VIP cama with AndesMar) to Salta. An interesting flamboyant guy from Salta started a conversation with us and continued on intermittently throughout the trip - his must do recommendation was to go and see the aliens in Cachi! Hmmm, maybe I could send the old man from the hotel reception there to teach him about the Internet.

On arriving we walked along the park towards the main plaza and stopped at small restaurant with tables on the pavement for their special of pizza and beer, 1 litre beers here. We took in the sights and sounds with an impressive red cathedral as a backdrop.

It was our 1 year marriage anniversary, so we'd look for somewhere nicer to stay in Salta. We walked a few blocks to the main plaza passing a park with people chilling on benches and home made biscuits, sweet (dulce) popcorn , and some handcrafts. Here we could sip on amber nectar, the local Cerveca Salta, sitting at a sidewalk restaurant and look up hostel options.

Hotel Angel was was a converted house, full of character and colonially decorated. Our room was large enough to swing a few cats and had balcony leading off.

A few weeks back I posted a travel forum question about the best steakhouse in Argentina (thorn tree, part of lonely planet). I had many responses and two were in Salta. I chose Viejo Jack's, the less main stream of the two.

A friendly reception awaited us to take us through the bamboo decorated eating hall to select our table. I asked for their best table and it was behind a pillar out of view of the TV, but with views of the street. Many less formal eateries in Argentina have TVs mounted and playing at a significant volume for patrons and staff to "enjoy" (!?!). Not the most romantic of anniversary atmospheres, but would the steak make up for it? We went round to speak to the chef who showed off the cuts of meat (so different looking to UK / SA cuts), and posed for some photos. The slower grilled steak arrived just in time for our second glass of good recommended wine. Thank goodness the waiter said the portions are large and we should share, the 750g whopper arrived. We shared it, with Mands not able to even finish her half! The whole meal and wine cost P$200 (£25 for two people), so beaks the scale for value for money. The steak was enjoyable, but doesn't edge into all time top ten.

A great memorable meal and good first anniversary. I so look forward to our future years, x.

In the morning, we were picked up for horse riding. We were staying 2 nights at a recommended ranch, Sayta Ranch, an hour from Salta. It was good horse riding, great food, fantastic service and friendly. More on that in another post.

From the ranch we would head onto Cafayate, a fantastic rustic town and centre of this small regions wine.

We would return to Salta for half a day and have another opportunity for some steak.