Our hostel, El Petite Vitraux, had rave reviews and from the moment we walked in we were impressed with Mike and Elena's friendliness and hospitality. They live in Monserrat in a grand building with high ceilings and elegant finishings. They helped us with information about everything we were interested in and booked activities for us. I think Elena was more excited then us about the Tango and Mike nervous about his steak recommendation after hearing about the steak club. Anyway, here's how you do 72 hours in Buenos Aires...
During breakfast we confirmed what we wanted to do, where to go and booked the key items. Our self guided walking tour started mid morning along Avenida 9 de Julio. It's an extremely wide road honouring Argentina's Independence from Spain (1816). It boasts 7 lanes in each direction, lined with trees and shops, a main artery to the heart beat of the city.
Passed the Obelisk and down the touristy pedestrianised streets with touts calling out for us to join their parrilla for lunch. We didn't enjoy this area, but I was able to pick up trousers to tango (both of my travelling trousers have zip off legs, now different colours after several washes) and an Argentinian futbol shirt that would come in handy the next day.
On to Plaza de Mayo where stands the Casa Rosada (The Pink House), the presidential house of Argentina with the famous balcony with Eva Peron (Evita).
Mike had recommended a more local lunch spot, a parilla called El Desnivel, along cobbled streets and in the antique area. I reminded Mands of our "you buy it you carry it" rule as she browsed through.
Cafe Tortoni on Avenida de Mayo, is well over 100 years (opened 1858), and our chosen afternoon tea unwind cafe. The maitre'd showed us towards our table passed some of the original early decor to be greeted by our bow tie'ed waiter. Soon we sipped on the house special hot chocolate and churros (pastry sticks you dip in coffee or hot chocolate) and followed it down with a glass of our new summer afternoon favourite, Torrentes white wine.
Back to change and ready for our tango pickup. We wanted a lesson together with the regular show and dinner. Some of the shows house hundreds of guest in grand affairs, however we were looking for a more intimate option. We found this with Compleje Tango. About 50 people arrived and started off with the lesson. An hour later we were 6 stepping, ocho'ing and throwing tango poses for the camera. I, this always happens, was selected to do a final dance off pose against another couple. I like to think we destroyed them.
Our dinner and show table was right in the middle of the stage so we had great views of the show with lightening fast kicks, sultry poses and almost feel all of the attitude that accompanies a tango. The great food and captivating show wouldn't be complete before again being called on to dance among the dinner tables with one of the leggy performers. I threw out my best moves and poses until after the 3rd blue steel "photo pose", she said that the pose isn't a continual part of the dance, but rather a once off when the camera is out. Tango night was definitely a highlight.
Day 2 started with further walking tours now with a short stop off at Theatro Colon before taxi'ing to the Recoleta Cemetery. An enormous tree greeted us on the lawn outside (Jim from Tango says second largest in the world!) before entering the famous cemetery of Evita and other celebrated Argentinians. Each mausoleum replicated Greek temples, Chapels or similar ambitious structures. Each towers over you in an imposing way. Apparently Evita, who fought for the poor, was not a welcome addition in this super wealthy cemetery, but now her families mausoleum has queues waiting to get a glimpse.
Off across the city to the more affluent and trendy area of Palermo for more wondering and soaking up of Buenos Aires life.
To get to grips with Argentinians you need to experience the true essence of what runs through their veins, yes, football. Luckily there was a international World Cup qualifying futbol match against Venezuela and further luck allowed us to get tickets! We joined a tour and stopped for cervezas and pizza before being dropped at the ground, River Plate Futbol Stadium.
Messi is arguably the best player in the world and captain of the Argentinean team. It was clear from the start that he was the people's champion as every shirt bar two that we saw were number 10 - Messi. Fans chanted his name and the stadium erupted when he assisted in 2 goals and scored one himself. Quite something to watch him play and a great experience to watch the Argentinean passion in the stadium.
With a half day left we visited La Boca, known as the birthplace of Tango. The old shipyard is now full of painted houses and pedestrianised streets play host to tango dancers dancing and posing, for a price. I couldn't help but get a photo with Maradona and got the photo for half the asking price.
So in Buenos Aires we'd drank Argentinian wine, danced the tango, watched a futbol game, so the only thing left was the steak.
Our final adventure took us to an upmarket (not a backpack to be seen) specialist steak restaurant on the docks, Cabana Las Lilas. Mike recommended this as great steak and not touristy as some of the other known steak houses. As it was a hot sunny day, we chose to sit out on the deck and sipped on a cool glass of Torrentes wine I selected from the 100 page wine menu and enjoyed our included-in-the-cover-charge starters (at a price). We ordered mains and decided on a Malbec to complement. The steaks arrived looking great with their cow shaped labels showing how they had been cooked. I ordered the ojo de bife (rib-eye), muy jugoso (very juicy aka rare) and Mands the Bife de chorizo (sirloin), jugoso (juicy aka medium rare). Argentinians tend to cook it medium / medium well if you don't specify. Well, Mandy's sirloin was the best she'd ever eaten in a restaurant and would be in my top 5! My rib-eye was good, but definitely trumped by that sirloin.
Getting back at the hostel, Mike opened the door and I could see his look of anticipation on how we enjoyed the steak. I decided to mess with him saying it was very regular before coming out with the good news. He was one relieved man.
We did well painting Beunos Aires red , but definitely have some unfinished business in Argentina. We're still to find the little known steak cafe with the magic formula, get a grip on mate and watch a Pumas rugby game. We've done well for now, so don't cry for me Argentina!
PS. We are still struggling to say Buenos Aires correctly without the Aires sounding like a pirate. Arrrr
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