Ecuador - Galápagos Islands (Billy'isms)

Oh my Goood, this is incredible
Lend me your imagination
Come back with your 10 children
Hugging and kissing
Get friendly
You are my best friend / group ever
Feliz Navidad and starting the Papa Noel toy
"Agua Man"
Out of this world
Blue-footed-boobie
Gourmet chef
Camera app
Sealion city / iguana city / white tip shark city / boobie city / turtle city
Camera, action please
$10,000 National Geographic photo

Ecuador - Galápagos Islands (day 4 to 8)

Day 4 Isla Santa Cruz (Charles Darwin Centre AM, Chato Highlands PM)

The new guests met us on the boat for lunch and then we went off to the Chato highlands to see Giant Tortoises in their natural environment. Tortoise city had quite a few tortoises grazing and thousands more expected in the coming weeks when their migration to the high lying areas completes , ready for mating season. At the end if our guided tour we handed back our walking willies and had a "photo app" opportunity that couldn't be missed... Mike and I climbing inside a Giant Tortoise shell! Polish/Canadian Robert brought out some tree branches for Mike to chew on - later found out that the tree with the small apples was super poisonous - Mike's still ok, so lives to tell the tale.

Day 5 Isla Isobella (Tintoreras AM, Muro de Lagrimas / galapaguera / Humedales PM)

A quick morning tour on the dark foreign landscape of black sharp lava rocks lead to baby marine iguana city. Furthermore a favourite white tip reef shark resting area we could view from 2 meters above giving great access to the 7 lazy sharks and a couple of turtles.

Billy was allowed for the first time to take us out himself on the dingy for a snorkel. As the tide was really low where he wanted to take us, he kicked us out to swim so the dingy could cross and then picked us up over the shallow ridge. Turtles were mating and we could get fairly close without disturbing them. Heading back Billy attempted the ridge crossing with us in, getting the boat lodged with a wave almost filling the boat. Loco Billy. He made sure to scoop as much water out before returning to Alfredo, the dingy captain's rage.

In the afternoon we went through to another tortoise rehab centre and took a walk through the poisonous "apple trees" passed flamingo lakes with their bright feathers showing the pink colour picked up from the shrimps (Camerones) that they eat.

Isla Isabella has a very small village port with 2,000 inhabitants. Sand roads and very chilled atmosphere. We walked along the beach next to sometimes really quirky houses (roof built around palm tree, coloured hammock's making curtains, coloured bottle tree) and were taken to a bar on the beach where agua y coco was recommended - almost frozen coconuts passed to the old lady at the back of the store, I went through to watch her carve it up with her panga blade with a few forceful blows and cut a small section for the straw to fit in before serving. We gulped it down and then they offered to slice up the coconut so we could eat it's flesh. There was so much, I took some back for fresh piña coladas with Lenin. We strolled around town in our free time and took in the nativity scenes and Christmas trees made of CDs. A small bar was built out at the edge of the small waterbreak and we settled down for a Cube Libre (dark rum, coke and lime) and ceverza.

That evening Lenin didn't hold back with the Piña Colada for Roy, Mandy, Michael and I.

Day 6 (Osla Rabida AM, Cerro Dragon PM)

Waking up and looking out our bunk porthole, I could see why it was called Red Beach. We ferried across onto the shore and learnt about illegal poaching and how nowadays a prison sentence is punishment for any animal killed yon the islands.

More snorkel time and we hugged the side of the island with a steep drop off the the big blue. First up close shark sighting and got to swim with it for a few minutes. Many starfish, got to swim with a penguin, few more sharks and sea lions (one of which played with our group for ages), rays and huge school of yellow tail surgeon fish.

Sailed across to Cerro Dragon for an inland hike. 4 flamingos standing on one leg led to the story of why... Not all flamingos species do this, but those that do apparently are those with more predators - Billy speculates they would pick up a stone in one foot and raise it, if the started to fall asleep, the stone would drop from next to their body and wake them up.

The hike continued through the large cactuses and odd land iguana and lava lizard up to a hill view point back across to the ocean.

Day 7 (Caleta Tortuga Negra AM, Sombrero Chino PM)

We headed into a no swim mangrove area for a dingy tour. the main sightings were mating tortugas - Tortuga city and National Geographic $10,000 sightings! Turtles mating season was starting and couples, 3's and 4's were getting on with it. Billy explained that when the male is mating it's common for other turtles to wait impatiently in line even snapping at the main turtle's flippers and often drawing blood. When they've got the first male off the next gets a chance. The female's going to have a busy day.

We also saw White tip sharks sleeping in the shallows (only a meter deep). Didn't get to see the manta rays, but a favourite for them too.

The afternoon saw our last snorkel at China Hat and what a swim that would be. El Capitain led the snorkel and must have loaded up on caffeine before heading off as he raced from the start darting from one crevice to the next looking for unsuspecting pufferfish to molest. Marine iguanas were feeding on seaweed underwater, sea lions curiously visiting, sharks cruising, an enormous diamond ray 5 ft by 5 ft, Galapagos Hawk hopping from rock to rock looking for a young iguana and Galapagos penguins checking us out from the rocks above. We're not going to even mention the fish! "Out of this world"!

Another evening card game of Shithead, gourmet meal and then farewell performance from Yate Darwin crew. Billy on guitar, Lenin on the cocktail shaker and even Patricio the Engineer and Chief security officer harmonising!

Day 8 (Dalphine AM, Baltra depart)

The final morning was an early start and a yacht tour around Dalphine Island that's a mating and breeding ground for many birds. Frigate birds inflate their bright red throat poaches and blue footed boobies become even brighter - although there were many birds we weren't there in mating season.

On the boat trip back to Baltra, I saw a ray jump right out of the water. Billy explained they do this either to escape shark attacks or as a method to dislodge parasites, thumping down on the water.

We said chow to our new amigos and sorted out crew tips ($40 per guest). Billy's guide tip was asked to be separate and he really did make the trip for us and other guests. I asked Billy about a bank machine at the airport and he said they were hoping to install one next year ... Problem. Scottish Michael was happy to lend me money and we'll meet up in London for him to take show us his best curry spot and me to show him the top steak spots. Huge thanks Michael.

It's going to be tough to top Galapagos, but we've got 3 months to try!

Ecuador - Galápagos Islands (day 1 to 4)

(WM) Day 1 Baltra to Islote Mosquera

We booked an 8 day cruise as our splash out part of the holiday and part 2 of the honeymoon.

The flight was from Guayaquil to Baltra. It was like a scene from Jurassic Park and I told Mands I half expected to see a brontosaurus across the plains.

We paid entry tax of $100 each and later found out that it goes to the betterment of the locals. The government used to take a large amount of this, but agreed to give all of it the the islanders to stop poaching. Again a destructive demand from Asia for animal parts... Sea Lion sex (penis) $100, sea cucumber $20 and shark fins.

We met our guide, Billy, a small Ecuadorian man in kaki wildlife clothes and a set of glasses from Mad Max. Horse voice and large character as we'd find out on the trip.

We were on Yate Darwin with a crew of 7 and 16 guests (Aussies , 2 Swiss and a Scot.). We set sail to Islote Mosquera and disembarked via rubber dingy (rubber duck to Safas) to the sandy island. Billy says it's "Sea Lion City" when we arrive (many of these Billy'isms would come out)! Pups, cows and the odd bulls were lying around and not in the least bothered by our presence - truly amazing to experience. We could have easily touched them and the other animals on the islands. Billy said that if we did touch a pup they would 100% die as their mothers find them by smell and wouldn't recognise them. Snorkel time and Mands , Jean-Francois and I entered the water. Mands was last in and 10 meters behind us when a snorkel scream was heard. I turned round to find a bank of laughing people who saw the largest sea lion making it's way past Mands who didn't realise it was coming until it was right in front of her. We were initially entertained by the fish and then our most memorable part of the trip, juvenile sea lions joined us to play. As curious about us as we are about them they darted in between us, doing turns and summersaults and coming face to face with our masks. I even had one come and gently clasp on my flipper - apparently they like to steal flippers, cameras and snorkels.

Other animals included marine iguanas, pelicans, warbler birds and pelicans.

Back on the boat and dinner from our "gourmet chef". Lupa was genuinely good and we'd have 2 three course meals per day - going to take some time to ween us off that.

Day 2 Isla San Cristobal (Punta Pitt AM, Cerro Brujo PM)

Today was the hike up the hill day, and where Billy's "oh my Goood" came into it's own. Single track fairly steep climb and you'd hear "oh my Goood" whenever Billy spotted something of note. Blue footed boobie after another and he'd genuinely get excited and shout out. Boobies (red footed, blue footed, nazca), and large marine iguanas would all get the same reaction. And if the boobie was on it's nest ... It could have been a gold discovery.

After lunch we were dropped by dingy on Cerro Brujo, a magnificent long white beach with turquoise water. Dropped our snorkel equipment and towels which the sea lions took a liking to, having a good roll amongst our things. We took a long walk along the beach spotting many turtle heads popping out the sea. Headed back, grabbed our snorkelling gear, looked for turtle heads and headed out to snorkel with them. Amazing!

Day 3 Isla San Cristobal (Leon Dormido AM, Islas Lobos PM)

Kicker Rock is a standalone sheer rock face outcrop in the middle of the ocean with 100 meter blue water depth all around. We snorkelled with the dingy following us around. The submerged rock walls were ablaze with reds, Amber's and yellows of sea urchins, starfish and fish. We swam through the only shallow part, a 20m deep gully running through the middle of the rock and saw our first white tip shark sightings and then Eagle Ray schools. And more turtles swimming around then we have seen in our entire life.

After lunch we sailed to the port of Puerto Ayora, the home town of many crew members. They dressed up for their island time and were ready for some down time.

Off for a night on the town with , Mands, Mat, Mat, Luke, Michael, Jessica and Navi. Drinks at the restaurant bar (600ml cervezas). Didn't take long before the Aussie Lads stories of their trips so far came out and it wasn't long until we were in Panga discoteca. We didn't disappear into the background much as we were paler, a head taller, danced less rhythmically and In a group and not 121 as the locals. A few seemingly straight kick you in the head tomorrow vodka lemonade drinks later and a few local dance tips later we headed back via dingy taxi.

Day 4 Isla Santa Cruz (Charles Darwin Centre AM, Chato Highlands PM)

We woke to say adios and "hug and kisses" to half the guests who were only doing the half week tour. Those of us continuing then headed to the Darwin Centre and learnt about the rehabilitation breeding program, how warmer eggs develop into females / cooler into males / 28.5 degrees results in 2 females and 1 male turtle and Billy's conspiracy theory on Lonesome George dying from too much Viagra.