Day 5 Isla Isobella (Tintoreras AM, Muro de Lagrimas / galapaguera / Humedales PM)
A quick morning tour on the dark foreign landscape of black sharp lava rocks lead to baby marine iguana city. Furthermore a favourite white tip reef shark resting area we could view from 2 meters above giving great access to the 7 lazy sharks and a couple of turtles.
Billy was allowed for the first time to take us out himself on the dingy for a snorkel. As the tide was really low where he wanted to take us, he kicked us out to swim so the dingy could cross and then picked us up over the shallow ridge. Turtles were mating and we could get fairly close without disturbing them. Heading back Billy attempted the ridge crossing with us in, getting the boat lodged with a wave almost filling the boat. Loco Billy. He made sure to scoop as much water out before returning to Alfredo, the dingy captain's rage.
In the afternoon we went through to another tortoise rehab centre and took a walk through the poisonous "apple trees" passed flamingo lakes with their bright feathers showing the pink colour picked up from the shrimps (Camerones) that they eat.
Isla Isabella has a very small village port with 2,000 inhabitants. Sand roads and very chilled atmosphere. We walked along the beach next to sometimes really quirky houses (roof built around palm tree, coloured hammock's making curtains, coloured bottle tree) and were taken to a bar on the beach where agua y coco was recommended - almost frozen coconuts passed to the old lady at the back of the store, I went through to watch her carve it up with her panga blade with a few forceful blows and cut a small section for the straw to fit in before serving. We gulped it down and then they offered to slice up the coconut so we could eat it's flesh. There was so much, I took some back for fresh piña coladas with Lenin. We strolled around town in our free time and took in the nativity scenes and Christmas trees made of CDs. A small bar was built out at the edge of the small waterbreak and we settled down for a Cube Libre (dark rum, coke and lime) and ceverza.
That evening Lenin didn't hold back with the Piña Colada for Roy, Mandy, Michael and I.
Day 6 (Osla Rabida AM, Cerro Dragon PM)
Waking up and looking out our bunk porthole, I could see why it was called Red Beach. We ferried across onto the shore and learnt about illegal poaching and how nowadays a prison sentence is punishment for any animal killed yon the islands.
More snorkel time and we hugged the side of the island with a steep drop off the the big blue. First up close shark sighting and got to swim with it for a few minutes. Many starfish, got to swim with a penguin, few more sharks and sea lions (one of which played with our group for ages), rays and huge school of yellow tail surgeon fish.
Sailed across to Cerro Dragon for an inland hike. 4 flamingos standing on one leg led to the story of why... Not all flamingos species do this, but those that do apparently are those with more predators - Billy speculates they would pick up a stone in one foot and raise it, if the started to fall asleep, the stone would drop from next to their body and wake them up.
The hike continued through the large cactuses and odd land iguana and lava lizard up to a hill view point back across to the ocean.
Day 7 (Caleta Tortuga Negra AM, Sombrero Chino PM)
We headed into a no swim mangrove area for a dingy tour. the main sightings were mating tortugas - Tortuga city and National Geographic $10,000 sightings! Turtles mating season was starting and couples, 3's and 4's were getting on with it. Billy explained that when the male is mating it's common for other turtles to wait impatiently in line even snapping at the main turtle's flippers and often drawing blood. When they've got the first male off the next gets a chance. The female's going to have a busy day.
We also saw White tip sharks sleeping in the shallows (only a meter deep). Didn't get to see the manta rays, but a favourite for them too.
The afternoon saw our last snorkel at China Hat and what a swim that would be. El Capitain led the snorkel and must have loaded up on caffeine before heading off as he raced from the start darting from one crevice to the next looking for unsuspecting pufferfish to molest. Marine iguanas were feeding on seaweed underwater, sea lions curiously visiting, sharks cruising, an enormous diamond ray 5 ft by 5 ft, Galapagos Hawk hopping from rock to rock looking for a young iguana and Galapagos penguins checking us out from the rocks above. We're not going to even mention the fish! "Out of this world"!
Another evening card game of Shithead, gourmet meal and then farewell performance from Yate Darwin crew. Billy on guitar, Lenin on the cocktail shaker and even Patricio the Engineer and Chief security officer harmonising!
Day 8 (Dalphine AM, Baltra depart)
The final morning was an early start and a yacht tour around Dalphine Island that's a mating and breeding ground for many birds. Frigate birds inflate their bright red throat poaches and blue footed boobies become even brighter - although there were many birds we weren't there in mating season.
On the boat trip back to Baltra, I saw a ray jump right out of the water. Billy explained they do this either to escape shark attacks or as a method to dislodge parasites, thumping down on the water.
We said chow to our new amigos and sorted out crew tips ($40 per guest). Billy's guide tip was asked to be separate and he really did make the trip for us and other guests. I asked Billy about a bank machine at the airport and he said they were hoping to install one next year ... Problem. Scottish Michael was happy to lend me money and we'll meet up in London for him to take show us his best curry spot and me to show him the top steak spots. Huge thanks Michael.
It's going to be tough to top Galapagos, but we've got 3 months to try!
Such awesome experiences and beautiful photos. Looking forward to the next stories. Merry Christmas. Love Mom and Mark
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