We booked an 8 day cruise as our splash out part of the holiday and part 2 of the honeymoon.
The flight was from Guayaquil to Baltra. It was like a scene from Jurassic Park and I told Mands I half expected to see a brontosaurus across the plains.
We paid entry tax of $100 each and later found out that it goes to the betterment of the locals. The government used to take a large amount of this, but agreed to give all of it the the islanders to stop poaching. Again a destructive demand from Asia for animal parts... Sea Lion sex (penis) $100, sea cucumber $20 and shark fins.
We met our guide, Billy, a small Ecuadorian man in kaki wildlife clothes and a set of glasses from Mad Max. Horse voice and large character as we'd find out on the trip.
We were on Yate Darwin with a crew of 7 and 16 guests (Aussies , 2 Swiss and a Scot.). We set sail to Islote Mosquera and disembarked via rubber dingy (rubber duck to Safas) to the sandy island. Billy says it's "Sea Lion City" when we arrive (many of these Billy'isms would come out)! Pups, cows and the odd bulls were lying around and not in the least bothered by our presence - truly amazing to experience. We could have easily touched them and the other animals on the islands. Billy said that if we did touch a pup they would 100% die as their mothers find them by smell and wouldn't recognise them. Snorkel time and Mands , Jean-Francois and I entered the water. Mands was last in and 10 meters behind us when a snorkel scream was heard. I turned round to find a bank of laughing people who saw the largest sea lion making it's way past Mands who didn't realise it was coming until it was right in front of her. We were initially entertained by the fish and then our most memorable part of the trip, juvenile sea lions joined us to play. As curious about us as we are about them they darted in between us, doing turns and summersaults and coming face to face with our masks. I even had one come and gently clasp on my flipper - apparently they like to steal flippers, cameras and snorkels.
Other animals included marine iguanas, pelicans, warbler birds and pelicans.
Back on the boat and dinner from our
Day 2 Isla San Cristobal (Punta Pitt AM, Cerro Brujo PM)
Today was the hike up the hill day, and where Billy's "oh my Goood" came into it's own. Single track fairly steep climb and you'd hear "oh my Goood" whenever Billy spotted something of note. Blue footed boobie after another and he'd genuinely get excited and shout out. Boobies (red footed, blue footed, nazca), and large marine iguanas would all get the same reaction. And if the boobie was on it's nest ... It could have been a gold discovery.
After lunch we were dropped by dingy on Cerro Brujo, a magnificent long white beach with turquoise water. Dropped our snorkel equipment and towels which the sea lions took a liking to, having a good roll amongst our things. We took a long walk along the beach spotting many turtle heads popping out the sea. Headed back, grabbed our snorkelling gear, looked for turtle heads and headed out to snorkel with them. Amazing!
Day 3 Isla San Cristobal (Leon Dormido AM, Islas Lobos PM)
Kicker Rock is a standalone sheer rock face outcrop in the middle of the ocean with 100 meter blue water depth all around. We snorkelled with the dingy following us around. The submerged rock walls were ablaze with reds, Amber's and yellows of sea urchins, starfish and fish. We swam through the only shallow part, a 20m deep gully running through the middle of the rock and saw our first white tip shark sightings and then Eagle Ray schools. And more turtles swimming around then we have seen in our entire life.
After lunch we sailed to the port of Puerto Ayora, the home town of many crew members. They dressed up for their island time and were ready for some down time.
Off for a night on the town with , Mands, Mat, Mat, Luke, Michael, Jessica and Navi. Drinks at the restaurant bar (600ml cervezas). Didn't take long before the Aussie Lads stories of their trips so far came out and it wasn't long until we were in Panga discoteca. We didn't disappear into the background much as we were paler, a head taller, danced less rhythmically and In a group and not 121 as the locals. A few seemingly straight kick you in the head tomorrow vodka lemonade drinks later and a few local dance tips later we headed back via dingy taxi.
Day 4 Isla Santa Cruz (Charles Darwin Centre AM, Chato Highlands PM)
We woke to say adios and "hug and kisses" to half the guests who were only doing the half week tour. Those of us continuing then headed to the Darwin Centre and learnt about the rehabilitation breeding program, how warmer eggs develop into females / cooler into males / 28.5 degrees results in 2 females and 1 male turtle and Billy's conspiracy theory on Lonesome George dying from too much Viagra.
No comments:
Post a Comment