Argentina - Mendoza

A long 18 hour, but super comfortable magic (large leather cama seats, movies, drinks and meals) bus later, we were almost in Mendoza from Salta. I couldn't believe how popular size of the highway asado's (bbq's) were. It was a Sunday and every kilometre or so, there was a small public hut with asado facilities and all of them were used - right there in the middle of nowhere. Meat is serious business here. It reminded me of when I was younger in South Africa and stopping of the side of the road for a picnic to break up a long journey - pitty, not sure anyone does this anymore.

Probably only a 5 minute cheap taxi ride away we arrived at Hostel Lao. Lizzie had recommended it and Mands booked ages ago. Even so we had the first night in a shared dorm and next two nights back in a double. A shared dorm is a great way to meet people, but the benefits stop there. The hostel is really good with friendly well informed staff and large well kept common areas and garden with hammocks, bed loungers and pool. Probably makes our top 3 hostels.

In the afternoon we caught a tourist bus for a trip around the largest park I've ever seen, Parque St Martin. It's got everything, a logoa with rowing regatta on when we were there, football stadium, bmx tracks, zoo, theatre, rugby/hockey/football, cafe's and acres of trees and grass areas. Being a Sunday, families picnicked all around - many had tables and chairs with them and everyone had their thermos for matte (tea). We'd learnt about customs and rules for drinking matte so picked up on these being put into action. Everyone says the English drink lots of tea, but they have nothing on the Argentinians who are never without a thermos at their side and their special cup and metal straw.

On our way back we walked through the bustling main plaza, Plaza Indepencia. It too was large and craft stalls ran along the paths showing off their wares including, jewellery, leather goods, wine holders, home industries foods and jams. We stopped close by for a sundowner of Andes Cerveca (1 litre, they come big) and Mands ordered a suggested Argentinean rum and coke that tasted like minty mouth wash.

Aristdes Villaneuva is a great street with wide sidewalks and lined with bars and restaurants. Chairs and tables dominated the pavement with a vibey feel from the conversations of hundreds of revellers. We stopped for a glass of wine and barley wine beer before settling down at a restaurant under the oak trees and shared a steak with mushroom sauce.

The new day brought on excitement for the very reason Mendoza is famous, wine. We bussed out to collect bicycles from Baccus bike tours and map for the wine route. The itinerary scheduled 5 stops, but were having such an interesting time at the 3rd we didn't make the other two.

On our bicycles, we headed out down the oak liked road between vineyards and a stunning snow capped Andes mountain range as a backdrop. A few wrong turns added half an hour on to our twenty minute first leg, but some local guidance brought us back on track.

1) Carmelo Patty - small producer. The famous wine maker who has produced one of the top 10 wines in the world in 2010, his Cabernet Sauvignon. Arriving, we were greater by a grey haired, Spanish only speaking man and taken to the adjacent room to taste some wine. Magazines and photos lay all around and soon we realised we were with Carmelo Patty himself. We had heavy handed servings of three of his wines and learnt about his process, timings and temperatures. For instance his merlot should be poured into a cravat for an hour, the cravat placed on ice to bring it's temperature down to 15 to 18 degrees and served after an hour. The tasting was for free and we were pleasantly surprised that he provided personal attention like that for us. Apparently his wine is available in the UK under the Pappas label. We've a nice photo of us and Carmelo.

2) Lagarde - large producer. This cost P$30 and included tour and tasting. An experienced sommelier (wine specialist) took us round. It's harvesting time, so we were luckily enough to see grapes being loaded for the start of the winery process, de-stalking. With a suction, grapes are then removed from the stalks and the stalks shredded. We learnt about the French oak and American oak barrels and how few uses each barrel has. Premium wines get first use, then standard wines, then supermarket wines. French oak costs €1,200 and after it's used, sold for P$200 (€45). We learnt about their top wine, Henry, and many other really interesting facts. A further 3 wines and we were, as mum would say, on our bicycles.

We found an unmarked road leading through a vineyard, so headed down it - amazing scenery. No one was picking over lunch time, so we headed on.

3) Pulmary, an all organic wine producer. A lady took us on the small winery tour into the old basement concrete vats and gave us wines along the tour. She kept on responding to our questions with I and again we figured out that we were with the actual wine maker! A Swiss couple and us spent over an hour talking to her. 16 years ago they wanted to do something new and by chance landed up in wine - her husband is a lawyer and helped out someone and didn't ask for any money in return. The person they had helped later came and dropped of cases and cases of premium wine - as their pallets matured so their interest grew. They bought land and started growing from scratch. 5 years to sell the first bottle, 10 years vineyard break even, will take 20 years to pay off the winery, 5 family members full or part time involved and 4 full time employees. The most important advice she was given when starting was (1) live near your vineyards, they need constant attention (2) in the winery, the detail matters.

The Swiss couple were doing their 3rd round the world travel year! We bought a bottle of Pulmary's blend and shared traveller tales. Their best story is about laundry in China... At one hostel/hotel they asked whether they could get their laundry done. Yes was the response and they should wait in there room for 10 minutes first. They thought it strange, but 10 minutes later there was a knock on the door. Roger opened and their they stood with a washing machine. They had carried it up the steps and now plugged and plumbed it into their room to allow the travellers to do their own laundry - a complete misunderstanding!

Well after bike hire drop off time we eventually returned the bikes and bussed back into Mendoza's centre after a great day.

Don Mario (Dorrego) steakhouse was recommended by our hostel and Trip Advisor as the best grill. When we arrived it was a fancier place than we had imagined and got right into our shared Bife de Chorizo chips and salad (palm hearts, avo and tomato). Wow 7 cm high steak! I've not had a steak that thick before. Brown roasting on the outside and pink with plenty of blood on the inside. They grill the meat on a lower heat and for much longer that what I'm familiar with. And result... Enjoyable steak, but unfortunately not close to top 10.

Our final full day in Mendoza was spent initially exploring plazas, small Plaza Espana being the best. We bought a picnic lunch of salami, cheese, olives and Torentes wine.

We walked back to Parque St Martin and set up next to lagoon we'd seen the regatta at previously. We watched joggers, cyclists and roller bladers pass as we sipped, ate, red and slept our way through the afternoon.

That evening, Mands was feeling a little steaked out, but convinced her for one last outing - I think the wine and a few beers along the people watching pedestrianised Paseo Sarmiento helped.

We picked a restaurant along Avenue Sarmiento purely based on size and quantity of meat on display in the window fronted kitchen. Mands had the bife de fillet and I had the buffet de lomo. Much better both steaks than the previous night, but again similar grilling method and thick steaks. Perhaps such thick steaks need this time. I have learnt that from ordering to eating, expect one hour. I'll add this to my steak knowledge.

I take away from Mendoza that the people are friendly and happy to help, the wine is good, the city is a pleasure to visit and they like their rugby (took all of 1 minute for a waiter to talk about the Springboks).

The next morning was the impressive Andes bus border crossing into Chile, to Santiago, Lizzie and Felipe!

Argentina - Quebrada de Cafayate (sandstone formations)

Leaving Cafayate, we took a tour through the Quebrada de Cafayate to see the well known sandstone formations. Our backpacks came with as we'd catch a bus from the last formation to our next destination.

We drove about 20 km leaving Cafayate's vineyards and the Sierra de Carahuasi mountains started. Our first stop was for a short walk into a section of mountains where we could see the weathered effect of rain, rivers and the wind on the sandstone rocks. Non-descript features were smoothly carved out. The rocks contain different minerals that bring out various shades of red. The whole range is a protected area, so no climbing to get pride rock photos like on the Salt Flats tour.

Every few kilometres we'd stop at a recognisable formation. First the Los Castillos (The Castles), then the El Obelisco (The Obelisk) and on to do another walk, this time for an hour.

Although clouds were out they would pass over highlighting the bright minerals as they let the sun through. Reds, greens, creams, browns, blacks and yellows shone out across the vast landscape. Here we climbed up onto hills for impressive views.

Further on the tour passed El Sapo (The Toad) to a mirador at the Three Crosses. the last two stops were the most impressive...
El Amfiteatro (The Amphitheatre) is a natural carved out by water. It must be twenty stories high. You walk through a narrow opening to a circular room that throws any sounds off against the walls. It reminded me of the TV series, Airwolf, from the 80's where the helicopter takes off vertically from it's top secret location. A man played on a wooden flute to promote his CD, so we could get a taste of what concerts in here could be like - they do actually host musical events in this amphitheater. It must be quite a sight and sound. This was definitely my favourite.

Finally it was the turn of Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat). This was the same height as the amphitheatre, but curved around a corner. This we could scale the rocks up different levels until we could go no further. After all of our climbing experience on this holiday, we are scrambling over obstacles like mountain goats, compared to others.

After the tour we waited 2 hours under the shade of a cool tree while the sun beat down around us. 3 hardened looking backpackers also took in the shade - they looked like they'd been travelling for years before their halfhearted attempt to catch a bus going in the opposite direction resulted in them missing it and deciding to start walking the 50 km's to Cafayate.

On the road again to pass through Salta before the heading to Argentina's wine and rugby capital, Mandoza.

Argentina - Cafayate

After the twists and turns through the red mountains from Salta, the landscape flattened and vineyards started. A few kilometres later and we were in the small town of Cafayate. I liked it from right from the word "vamos". Sun beating down on the character filled buildings, intersected with dusty streets dotted with large trees giving some relief from the heat. It was a slow pace of life in a town rustically centred around wine.

We didn't have a hostel booked, but were really happy with our second viewing at Rusky-K with it's wide courtyard, grapevines and friendly atmosphere. The first hostel we looked at had a double with no outside windows.

Lunch was empanadas and salami on the main plaza, before Mands headed back for some downtime and I went exploring around town.

TripAdvisor rated a wine tasting shop, Chato's, off the main plaza highly for it's informative sommelier owner. Mands and I wondered around town before landing up there for a tasting of Cafayate's finest and another cold meats and olives platter. We learnt about the regions unique grape and wine, Torrentes. This white is known as The Liar as it's aroma is sweet, hiding the dryer taste below. We had a few of these across Argentina, a good summer afternoon choice. The owner rater South African Pinotage when he heard where we were from. He gave us two recommendations for wineries we'd visit cycling the next day.

Midmorning, after picking up the bikes we headed out on our wine tour. Passing the plaza, I said hello in by best Spanish to a street dog crossing the road (yes, sounds a little odd). The dog seemed to respond and then led us out of the town and along the road. The winery is 2 km out of town and this dog ran along with us the whole way. Normally Mands is the one dogs sniff out, but this time it was me. Quite taken by this I recorded a video of our pack making our way along the road.

At the winery / bodega we had 10 minutes before the tour, so our new friend gulped down some hosepipe water and found a place next to our bikes to wait for us to finish out tour. Etchart, is a larger winery and a knowledgable sommelier took us around in Spanish - we are now following a good deal of conversation, and where we look a little confused she repeats in English. The really informative tour was topped off with a 5 wine tasting, all for free. All of the wines are good here. Here I also learnt what Mands would come to despise, the way to properly enjoy your wine, bringing out all the aroma and flavour (lots of swirling and a aerating noises followed by a deep breath - I would do this for each sip in the coming days).

Our new friend rand back to town with us before deciding the 5km winery sounded a bit far and let us head off alone.

Finca de Las Nubes farm housed a small vineyard and winery. It had great views from the base of the mountain across the vineyard and over the town. Although only 5 km, we sweated it up the dust road climb and luckily I had a change of shirt on hand.

I ordered a bottle of their finest along with a lunch platter that we could ease through during the afternoon. It's so much more relaxed than South African more luxury high end vineyards.

We ended up staying the whole afternoon and well passed closing time. We bought another Torrentes and lazed the sun down - intermittently interrupted by their excited about chewing puppy.

We again headed to the plaza for an evening "knertsie" when Hola, our wine tour dog, arrived to have a snooze next to us. The plaza is beautiful at night with the church lit up and the yellow lights eliminating the trees. We've been through a few towns and cities now and the South American's have got it right with plazas. They are well maintained and regularly used by old, young, locals and travellers alike.

Mands and I strolled around the plaza and I bought my leather cased steak knife, fork and knife sharpening rod as an Argentinean memento. Steak club is going to be impressed.

Opposite our hostel was a really popular more local diner we tried. We ordered some empanadas and humitas (corn bread wrapped in maize leaves). Didn't realise we'd get 12 empanadas for P$25 (£3) so we could take some for lunch for our tour tomorrow - they keep really well.

We left this town taking fond memories and headed out to do the Quebrada de Cafayate (sandstone formations) tour and continue to Salta. More about that in a separate post.

Mi gusta Cafayate.

Argentina - Sayta horse riding Ranch

Sayta Ranch is an hour from Salta. We booked for 2 nights on the ranch and would have two days of horse riding to learn to ride like a Gaucho.

The ranch organised a pickup in Salta where we'd meet others heading out for a day's horse riding. We joined them at camping grounds and a huge overland adventure truck was parked next to the tents. Getting into the mini bus I said to Mands that I was glad we weren't in that camping tour through South America. The Welsh guy next to us said yes, it had been tough going ... the minibus was full of people from the overland tour! I managed to take my foot out of my mouth during the transfer and find out about their tour - they sometimes travelled 2 days straight and one brother booked him and his sister on the tour not realising they would be in a truck and camping each night!

We were warmly greeted by Laura and Kylie together with their dogs, McKay their massive Argentine Doggo cross Labrador and Moody the endless energy weimaraner.

Straight onto the saddles for our first ride. We walked through fields of tabacco plants and tobacco drying sheds and across a river. Mands had her hands full with a horse that was intent on eating at every opportunity. It had been a leisurely start until we reached a grass plain and were taken for a gallop - the gauchos would gallop next to our horse holding our horses' harness to control him. You could really feel the power of those horses. I was over the walking and got the group trotting back to the ranch, an easy start to the riding. A less easy dismount as I could barely walk for a couple of minutes until my legs straightened.

Lunch was quite something. One of the Gaucho's, nicknamed Pollo, was the assador (bbq'er). With gauchos, guests and staff there were 20 of us but enough meat, salads and wine for 40. Round after round of meat came out, each with a heavy handed topup of wine. A good 3/4 bottle of wine later it was time for further riding!

This time everyone had more courage (liquid) on the horses. Mands and I led the canter'ing through the fields, now on a different trail and then walked up a stream. Again further galloping, led by the gaucho's and back to the ranch.

Our cabin was their really nice matrimonial room. After 5 hours of horse riding and wine, I hit the hay and Mands curled up with her book. (Wow Mands reads a lot- I now refer to her as eating books as each only lasts 2 to 3 days).

Kylie made us dinner and joined us. We chatted over 3 more bottles of wine and then retired to the pitch black, dead quiet night (avoiding all of the frogs between the main house and the cabin).

A similar day awaited us with 2 rides and enormous lunch. This time however the riders were more experienced and we opted to gallop ourselves, unaided by the gauchos. It's amazing running with these horses! Back in over cautious UK, we'd still be walking, wrapped in safety armour.

One couple were doing a similar route to us in South America, but with a 11 month old baby! Hats off to them.

Lunch was again great and wine flowed. The group was chatting up a storm for the second ride. Mands was riding behind one girl very much post-vino slouched to one side in the saddle. I was the only guy riding now with the group of good looking girls and must have been the envy of a group of road workers who came to a standstill as we trotted through.

Another good night chatting.

Our parents, Clive, Erica and Gerry had arranged for wedding anniversary cards to be sent to the ranch. Huge thank you for the efforts for this, we both really appreciated this. Unfortunately the post hadn't arrived by the time we had to leave, so Laura is going to forward it onto London.

Before we left to go catch our next bus, we were treated to Laura's son fighting imaginary bad guys on the back of the red pick up - dialogue, invisible special weapons, actions and all. Good to see this as it's how I grew up!

Luckily we could pick up the bus to Cafayate from a small town close to the ranch rather than going back to Salta and returning on the same road. The road to Cafayate was quite a site twisting and turning through the red mountains that themselves was a tour we'd return to to walk through the wind chiseled sculpture, but for now we were off for the wine area of Cafayate.

Argentina - Salta

Our Salta adventure started a day later than hoped. The plan from Puerto Iguacu, was to take a 22 hour bus ride to Tucuman, then book onto the next "leaves every hour" bus for the 4 hour final leg to Salta. In short... The bus ride to Tucuman took 26 hours (with no announcements and little food and drink - AndesMar Bus), arriving at 11:30 PM; the next bus to Salta was in 4 hours and in heavy rain, so we decided to book into a Lonely Planet hotel option; 2 hour queue to get a taxi best described as organised chaos; the hotel name had changed, prices doubled, the reception man must have been close to 100 years old, which is younger than the last time the hotel had any modernisation, and I might as well have been an alien trying to ask for wifi/Internet/google.

Finally, we were on a bus (best we've been on - VIP cama with AndesMar) to Salta. An interesting flamboyant guy from Salta started a conversation with us and continued on intermittently throughout the trip - his must do recommendation was to go and see the aliens in Cachi! Hmmm, maybe I could send the old man from the hotel reception there to teach him about the Internet.

On arriving we walked along the park towards the main plaza and stopped at small restaurant with tables on the pavement for their special of pizza and beer, 1 litre beers here. We took in the sights and sounds with an impressive red cathedral as a backdrop.

It was our 1 year marriage anniversary, so we'd look for somewhere nicer to stay in Salta. We walked a few blocks to the main plaza passing a park with people chilling on benches and home made biscuits, sweet (dulce) popcorn , and some handcrafts. Here we could sip on amber nectar, the local Cerveca Salta, sitting at a sidewalk restaurant and look up hostel options.

Hotel Angel was was a converted house, full of character and colonially decorated. Our room was large enough to swing a few cats and had balcony leading off.

A few weeks back I posted a travel forum question about the best steakhouse in Argentina (thorn tree, part of lonely planet). I had many responses and two were in Salta. I chose Viejo Jack's, the less main stream of the two.

A friendly reception awaited us to take us through the bamboo decorated eating hall to select our table. I asked for their best table and it was behind a pillar out of view of the TV, but with views of the street. Many less formal eateries in Argentina have TVs mounted and playing at a significant volume for patrons and staff to "enjoy" (!?!). Not the most romantic of anniversary atmospheres, but would the steak make up for it? We went round to speak to the chef who showed off the cuts of meat (so different looking to UK / SA cuts), and posed for some photos. The slower grilled steak arrived just in time for our second glass of good recommended wine. Thank goodness the waiter said the portions are large and we should share, the 750g whopper arrived. We shared it, with Mands not able to even finish her half! The whole meal and wine cost P$200 (£25 for two people), so beaks the scale for value for money. The steak was enjoyable, but doesn't edge into all time top ten.

A great memorable meal and good first anniversary. I so look forward to our future years, x.

In the morning, we were picked up for horse riding. We were staying 2 nights at a recommended ranch, Sayta Ranch, an hour from Salta. It was good horse riding, great food, fantastic service and friendly. More on that in another post.

From the ranch we would head onto Cafayate, a fantastic rustic town and centre of this small regions wine.

We would return to Salta for half a day and have another opportunity for some steak.

Brazil - The Rodizio

Buffalo Bronco Rodizio, Foz de Iguaçu, Brazil.

The rodizio grill is usually $R60, however with the hostel card we could get it for $R40 (£13) each.

After a couple of warm up cervezas we went through to the eat as much as you like restaurant. Effectively there's a salad and sides buffet (enormous) and every couple of minutes a waiter comes around with a straight off the grill meat on a skewer. The cuts in Brazil are different to those in SA or UK. I made sure we made our way around the entire cow, marking off ratings on the cut guide they gave us.

Their asado grill was impressively large. Mands and I went to have a look and then were invited in for photos. The waiters started to take a liking to us at this stage and we were getting preferential selections of meat. Careful not to take any more than a minimal amount of sides and no carbs, I sliced through round after round of deliciousa carne.

We spoke to an elder French couple at the table next to us. Mands says that when the boys were talking meat, the French lady rolled her eyes at her, in a here they go again way. Just when we'd finished my last mouthful of steak, the French man says to Mandy: "I don't know how he eats so much meat and has a flat stomach." Yes Messier, I don't know either.

Postre (deserts) were also a plentiful and with no room left in our stomachs, we did the only sensible thing for a backpacker, loaded up a plateful of desserts as as well!

Great night out!

Brazil & Argentina - Iguacu Falls

We flew into Foz de Iguaçu town from Florionopolis via São Paolo. It's quite a sight with dense jungle like vegetation split by a brown river and then opening up with mist bellowing up where the tons of water crash over the falls.

The falls border three countries... Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay. We'd be visiting the first two, being the main attractions.

We took the local bus into the town and with no hostel booked, we went in search for one. I decided one one, the first I've chosen the whole holiday - my wife does a masterful job at this so I usually watch from the sideline. Phew, it passed. And it had really good wifi in the room - many places have had no wifi or only available in the reception area.

The hostel told us about a rodizio grill, Buffalo Bronco, two blocks away where we could get a discount and great food. More about that great meal in a separate post.

We caught the 120 local bus to arrive just before the national park opens. We entered the bus station correctly through the ticket booth this time - yesterday we walked in on the side of the road that's a very open entrance, but were descended upon in a Royal Marine like attack by the security guard. Can't believe how cheap the busses are.

Our backpacks were with us as we'd head straight over the border to Argentina. After a good game of tetris, we puzzled our 2 backpacks, 1 daypack and the rolled up painting from Salvador into the one locker.

An open top bus took us to the start of the one kilometre walk along the falls to wards Garganta do Diablo (Devil's Throat). From the first lookout area, the falls were impressive. The river flows down and then along the side of the drop points creating the cataratus (falls) a good kilometre long.

As we walked along the trail the waterfalls grew in size (width) and ferocity. specialist boats offering water tours were dwarfed by the powerful cataratus. We could see people one the Argentina side who were mere specs, but have real perspective on the height of the falls.

Along the path, we saw a 2 meter black and yellow tree snake some tourists had spotted, before the The Devil's Throat appeared - quite fitting. It is truly impressive.

A viewing platform is built out over the falls half way up. We covered the camera in a plastic bag, put the waterproof cover on the day pack and headed out on the platform. The water crashes down and creates a mist or even rain that hits you side on. In a couple of minutes we were drenched. With the mist, amazing rainbows are created with the sun penetrating through.

Still soaked we walked on to the lunch area next to the start of the falls. Initially an exciting find, the raccoon like animals quickly turned into the devil's pets as they tormented those having lunch. We could see how this happened with some visitors giving them food where clear signs police against it. One crazy mother held her baby next to these wild animals for a close up photo!

Instead of catching the bus straight away, we walked back along the train to get to see the great waterfalls and glad we did as we got tom see another perspective as we walked.

We negotiated the taxi driver down to our expected tariff to drive us through the Brazilian boarded to the Argentinean border (great tip from the hostel instead of taking bus after bus through each stage). Before long I was standing on Argentinean soil! A local bus that lucking accepted Bolivian Reals took us into the Argentinean side town of Puerto Iguazú.

Mands took control of hostel booking again, booking us into a small converted house with a pool. After posting off same items to the UK (including Miguel, the painting from Salvador, I'd accidentally left at the bank 5 minutes earlier), we cooled off in the pool.

Now refreshed, we were ready for our first Argentinian parrilla. These grills are served on a steel tray with coals underneath to keep it hot and include pork sausage, black pudding, beef ribs, chicken, kidneys and stuffed small intestine - all went down well except for the stuffed small intestine, one bight was enough as I couldn't work out what it was stuffed with! Parrilla's are available throughout Argentina, but will be sticking to straight meat form here out.

Iguazú Falls day, Argentinean side day. A local bus took us out and we joined the short entrance queue. Good to see there are discounted rates for Argentinians and interestingly, further discounts for those living in the province and also discounts for neighbouring countries. South Africa really needs to be doing more of this.

You have to take the world's slowest train to the central station and then a mother train to the Devil's Throat. We met Nick, a young South African doctor in the queue and had a good catch up with him and his interesting national service stories about bullets and machetes.

The Devil's Throat was heaving with people. We shuffled along to get views and for photos. The different view further shows the river demonstrating it's power. The water spray here was much stronger than the Brazilian side so we were soaked in seconds.

A train back to central station and we headed out along the trails towards the Jungle Tour start point. This was the boart ride that that takes you right up to the falls.

The boat was the largest semi-rigid inflatable I'd ever seen. It had seating for forty people and the captain had a specially built two meter hight platform at the back of the boat to get his advantage point. We were taken to two waterfall points first for photo time and then right into the spray and the waterfall base. What power! We had to close our eyes at stages with the water lashing across. The closer he got to the falls, the more the boat would cheer, egging him on. It's a short powerful 15 minutes, but worth every Peso!

In the afternoon we walked the upper circuit, along the top of the waterfalls and again incredible rainbows encircled each waterfall.

The final waterfall had an unexpected "treat" waiting, an older man was sitting in his underwear, legs crossed, meditating and rocking forwards and backwards. Of course I snuck up and had a photo in front of him.

Now which side is better to visit? It's worth visiting both, but not to sit on the fence on this one, I'd choose to walk on the Brazilian side if only doing one.

Back at the hostel we cooled off again with a swim, Mands had her last play with the kitten an we headed off for a pizza, before the start of our longest, coldest, hungriest bus ride ever...