Mandy's BIG FIVE
1. Torres Del Paine
Just breathtaking. Patagonia is magnificent and I felt very priveledged to be able to walk amongst the mountains, lakes and rumbling glaciers.
2. Galapagos
Like no where else on earth. The wildlife experience is incredible, I saw more snorkelling for half an hour than I have seen in a life time of scuba diving. The sea lions swimming along and playing with you is something you can never forget. It feels like you're living a National Geographic documentary.
3. Rio De Janeiro
Sunshine, beautiful people and a beautiful city. So. Much. Fun!
4. Salt Flats and Bolivian Altiplano
A surreal landscape, volcanos, salt flats, alpaca, llama and flamingos all at 5000m above sea level. Priviledged... Again.
5. The Inca Trail
We had the most amazing group of people to hike with and the sense of achievement as a group when you get to the sun gate is fantastic. High fiving everyone in over the summits is special too. And we had Panoramallama!
Wednesday 8 May 2013
Sunday 7 April 2013
Argentina - El Calafate and the glacier walk
Following the W Trek, we were able to catch a transfer across the border from Patagonia in Chile to Patagonia in Argentina. Always Glacier guided us through the much quieter, much more chilled out border crossing out of Chile and back into Argentina. It seems the Chileans are only concerned about what is coming into Chile, not what is going out.
Travelling at dusk, we experienced a stunning sunset that lasted for two hours of pink, yellow and orange.
Arriving in El Calafate Belen from Lautara Hostel gave us the friendliest, most enthusiastic greeting we'd had all holiday. Her friendliness and helpfulness would continue the whole time we were here. It makes such a difference.
With heavy legs from the W Trek, a chilled day was on the cards. Whereas Puerto Natales was a no frills basic town, El Calafate was full of brand shops and fancier restaurants.
A stroll through town followed our pick up of rental boots for the next day's glacier walk. Lunch was at a very basic cafe like grill, La Fonda del Parrillero. The low priced steak turned out to be the best steak we'd had so far in Argentina! Just shows you that you can get as many recommendations on what to do and where to go, but the gems are still the ones you try blind with no expectations, that fly in from left field and surprise you.
My choice was the Ojo de Bife con frites (pesos 44 / <£6) and Mandy's Bife de Chorizo (same price). This is what Argentina should be about.
We spent the afternoon getting lost along the lagoon and bird sanctuary close to town before a quick sundowner and dinner. Yes, we did eat quite a bit today, but all in preparation for the glacier tomorrow. Mi Ranch was a number one recommended grill from Trip Advisor and off the tourist road - the lamb and trout we had were in our top 5 meals on holiday!
Finally ice walking day! Perito Moreno Glacier is one of the glaciers originating from the massive Patagonian Icefield. Mands, not wanting to miss out on any experience, agreed to tackle the longer, 7 hour "Big Ice" trek instead of the standard 3 hour option - good effort with her toes still blistered. The new speciality ankle boots should help too.
We were off with a good start as we were treated to one of the brightest sunsets I had ever seen as the bus made it's way to the glacier.
First, we'd go to a viewpoint on the mountain head directly in front of the glacier. For an hour we wondered the various platforms and viewing desks listening to the creaking glacier lying in front of us. It's enormous! Just check it's stats...
Front width - 4km
Length - 30km
Surface - 257km squared
This glacier is much bigger than the large glacier, Glacier Grey, we saw on the W Trek. It's also very active, moving at 1.7 meters per day in the middle and 0.45 meters on the sides. With thunderous cracks and rumbles, we watched front sections drop off the glacier into the water resulting in swells and ripples emanating and continuing to the shore line. I'm surprised how close the boats, seemingly toy boats in comparison, get to the glacier face. When an ice section breaks, they don't wait around as a large drop could create a wave to topple the boat.
One of these boats took us across, giving a much closer view of this frozen beast. After a briefing we were off for an hour hike along the side of the glacier to the Big Ice equipment camp where we'd start the walk. Crampons fitted to our shoes and harness on, in case of emergency and we were walking on this foreign surface.
Ski resort ice is pretty flat. The surface of a glacier is anything but! Hills, valleys, deep crevices, rivers and lakes awaited us. The surface of the glacier melts each day and refreezes creating these rivers and features. Furthermore the ice isn't all white, but a luminous blue!
The stories of establishing Patagonia's Chile / Argentina border were quite interesting...
1981, an agreement was reached to determine the border lines between Chile and Argentina as the "highest peaks that divided waters". Conflicting points where dividing waters did not exist led to each country interpreted borders differently. 1902 King Henry Edward VII of England arbitrated the problem, bringing an end to the Chilean /Argentinean issue that had reached at a very dangerous point in their relationship. He was presented with land as a gift and he returned it to the government under condition that it be preserved for future generations. His action allowed the creation of the first Argentine National Park.
Framcisco Pascasio Moreno was the Argentine expert called on to give evidence in establishing the border line with Chile. Thereafter, this explorer and natural science specialist, was chosen to lend his name to the giant glacier.
Back to the big trek. We had a lunch at the largest lake, half way out on the glacier, about 2 km in. The group filled water bottles and I felt somewhat like a natural Patagonian water advert model - one of the guides took a photo an emailed it to us, really could be an advertisement.
Post lunch Mands was really struggling with further blisters. This time on her heels and from the new specialist ankle high boots. Each step looked uneasy and it wasn't until the end of the hike when she took her boots off did I see how bad it was - both heels had almost 2 cm raw blisters! You could see from the guides face that they were bad. With additional strapping over the gaping hole, Mandy soldiered on. "No donkey!"
Just before arriving back at the starting camp, there was a huge crack, followed by another and another. The glacier face dropped of chunks of ice, the largest we'd seen. A boat, looking like a toy in comparison, was close to the drop zone and hastily turned away from the resulting ice bergs and swell heading in it's direction. Continuing along the single track path we heard the water now lapping up against the rocks near our pickup. It's like dropping a pebble, a big pebble, in a pond and watching the ripples travel.
Armed with our camera and knitted Peru and Bolivian hats for extra warmth, we looked out to the glacier for another mighty fall. Glacier Moreno let out loud stomach grumbles, but alas, no further splashes.
On our final morning, I made sure I was up before sunrise and had directions to a good viewpoint on the side of the lake to hopefully catch a similar sunrise on camera. Unfortunately a low horizon cloud bank wanted the sunset to itself, however it was a good 2 hours exploring an outer lying area of El Calafate.
Our flight had been pushed back by 7 hours (almost every flight has changed in South America). This would unfortunately cut short our already short time in Buenos Aires, but allowed Mands some much needed flip flop time to help the blisters before ... The Tango.
Travelling at dusk, we experienced a stunning sunset that lasted for two hours of pink, yellow and orange.
Arriving in El Calafate Belen from Lautara Hostel gave us the friendliest, most enthusiastic greeting we'd had all holiday. Her friendliness and helpfulness would continue the whole time we were here. It makes such a difference.
With heavy legs from the W Trek, a chilled day was on the cards. Whereas Puerto Natales was a no frills basic town, El Calafate was full of brand shops and fancier restaurants.
A stroll through town followed our pick up of rental boots for the next day's glacier walk. Lunch was at a very basic cafe like grill, La Fonda del Parrillero. The low priced steak turned out to be the best steak we'd had so far in Argentina! Just shows you that you can get as many recommendations on what to do and where to go, but the gems are still the ones you try blind with no expectations, that fly in from left field and surprise you.
My choice was the Ojo de Bife con frites (pesos 44 / <£6) and Mandy's Bife de Chorizo (same price). This is what Argentina should be about.
We spent the afternoon getting lost along the lagoon and bird sanctuary close to town before a quick sundowner and dinner. Yes, we did eat quite a bit today, but all in preparation for the glacier tomorrow. Mi Ranch was a number one recommended grill from Trip Advisor and off the tourist road - the lamb and trout we had were in our top 5 meals on holiday!
Finally ice walking day! Perito Moreno Glacier is one of the glaciers originating from the massive Patagonian Icefield. Mands, not wanting to miss out on any experience, agreed to tackle the longer, 7 hour "Big Ice" trek instead of the standard 3 hour option - good effort with her toes still blistered. The new speciality ankle boots should help too.
We were off with a good start as we were treated to one of the brightest sunsets I had ever seen as the bus made it's way to the glacier.
First, we'd go to a viewpoint on the mountain head directly in front of the glacier. For an hour we wondered the various platforms and viewing desks listening to the creaking glacier lying in front of us. It's enormous! Just check it's stats...
Front width - 4km
Length - 30km
Surface - 257km squared
This glacier is much bigger than the large glacier, Glacier Grey, we saw on the W Trek. It's also very active, moving at 1.7 meters per day in the middle and 0.45 meters on the sides. With thunderous cracks and rumbles, we watched front sections drop off the glacier into the water resulting in swells and ripples emanating and continuing to the shore line. I'm surprised how close the boats, seemingly toy boats in comparison, get to the glacier face. When an ice section breaks, they don't wait around as a large drop could create a wave to topple the boat.
One of these boats took us across, giving a much closer view of this frozen beast. After a briefing we were off for an hour hike along the side of the glacier to the Big Ice equipment camp where we'd start the walk. Crampons fitted to our shoes and harness on, in case of emergency and we were walking on this foreign surface.
Ski resort ice is pretty flat. The surface of a glacier is anything but! Hills, valleys, deep crevices, rivers and lakes awaited us. The surface of the glacier melts each day and refreezes creating these rivers and features. Furthermore the ice isn't all white, but a luminous blue!
The stories of establishing Patagonia's Chile / Argentina border were quite interesting...
1981, an agreement was reached to determine the border lines between Chile and Argentina as the "highest peaks that divided waters". Conflicting points where dividing waters did not exist led to each country interpreted borders differently. 1902 King Henry Edward VII of England arbitrated the problem, bringing an end to the Chilean /Argentinean issue that had reached at a very dangerous point in their relationship. He was presented with land as a gift and he returned it to the government under condition that it be preserved for future generations. His action allowed the creation of the first Argentine National Park.
Framcisco Pascasio Moreno was the Argentine expert called on to give evidence in establishing the border line with Chile. Thereafter, this explorer and natural science specialist, was chosen to lend his name to the giant glacier.
Back to the big trek. We had a lunch at the largest lake, half way out on the glacier, about 2 km in. The group filled water bottles and I felt somewhat like a natural Patagonian water advert model - one of the guides took a photo an emailed it to us, really could be an advertisement.
Post lunch Mands was really struggling with further blisters. This time on her heels and from the new specialist ankle high boots. Each step looked uneasy and it wasn't until the end of the hike when she took her boots off did I see how bad it was - both heels had almost 2 cm raw blisters! You could see from the guides face that they were bad. With additional strapping over the gaping hole, Mandy soldiered on. "No donkey!"
Just before arriving back at the starting camp, there was a huge crack, followed by another and another. The glacier face dropped of chunks of ice, the largest we'd seen. A boat, looking like a toy in comparison, was close to the drop zone and hastily turned away from the resulting ice bergs and swell heading in it's direction. Continuing along the single track path we heard the water now lapping up against the rocks near our pickup. It's like dropping a pebble, a big pebble, in a pond and watching the ripples travel.
Armed with our camera and knitted Peru and Bolivian hats for extra warmth, we looked out to the glacier for another mighty fall. Glacier Moreno let out loud stomach grumbles, but alas, no further splashes.
On our final morning, I made sure I was up before sunrise and had directions to a good viewpoint on the side of the lake to hopefully catch a similar sunrise on camera. Unfortunately a low horizon cloud bank wanted the sunset to itself, however it was a good 2 hours exploring an outer lying area of El Calafate.
Our flight had been pushed back by 7 hours (almost every flight has changed in South America). This would unfortunately cut short our already short time in Buenos Aires, but allowed Mands some much needed flip flop time to help the blisters before ... The Tango.
Friday 22 March 2013
Chile - Patagonia and the W trek
With a latitude of more than 51 degrees South, this is the furtherest South either of us had ever ventured. You know you're towards the bottom of the world when people are speaking about their Antarctic cruise.
The Parque Nacional hosts the granite pillars of Torres Del Paine (Towers of Paine) and is probably the finest park in South America. The highlight in the park is the Torres along with the 'W' trek. The W is the shape of the hike walking the side of 3 mountains and this is what we'd be walking over the next 5 days.
You have the option to camp along the route or stay in a "refugio". I vetoed the camping idea when I read reviews for March saying temperatures can drop below zero together with torrential downpours and over 100km per hour winds - to top it off, a clear day can turn on you in 15 minutes! I had in my head that the refugio was like a run down fisherman shack, however it was anything but. The refugio is similar to a large catered ski chalet - no shack in sight.
Day 0 - Arrival Day
Puerto Natales to Refugio Torres Central (arriving in the park)
The Gomez bus collected us for the 2 1/2 hour transfer into the Torres del Paine National Park. Wide open grasslands dominated the trip with horses grazing in the golden fields and small llama herds by the lakes. We could see the mountain ranges starting to rise and climbing into rugged formations over 2000 meters in the distance.
Park fees must be paid on entry and we'd been worried we didn't have enough money with us for the week. Luckily they accepted US$ and we had our emergency Dollars available to cover park fees.
A smaller bus took us to the refugio where we'd be staying, Refugio Torres Central.
All dorms were a 6 sleepers, with huge double bunks and double duvets for the cold.
We checked in and headed out to see if we could catch a glimpse of the Torres (towers) behind the clouds. Almost on cue of our arrival, the sun started to make it's way through and we rushed up a nearby hill to take some photos of the Torres appearing. Also over the hill we found alien like pods that must have been the staff accommodation. Back down for dinner in the eating hall and joined Becky and Neil from London, a friendly couple who we'd met earlier. Turned out we had the same plans and we'd see a lot of them over the coming days.
Day 1.
Refugio Torres Central to Torres del Paine and back (10.5 km, 7 hours).
The iPhone alarm rang out in the dark like a phone possessed - Austin Powers theme tune blared out at full volume . We were awake. Sunrise was starting and the sky was ... completely clear, without a cloud in the sky and next to no wind - we couldn't have asked for a better day, and more than that, this weather would continue all week! Exceptionally good weather again graced us with it's presence in South America.
We set off with a day pack containing, sunscreen (no ozone above Patagonia), storm weather jackets, cameras and packed lunch.
It started with easy to moderate, mainly uphill along the side of the mountain with a river below. Dry grassland turned into well covered forests and temperatures in the sun were short trousers and t-shirt warm and shady areas, immediately cool with the cold wind.
There weren't nearly as many people on the trail as with The Inca trail and no guides and porters this time either.
The final 45 minutes was fairly steep granite bolder clambering up to the Torres. Huffing and puffing, we rounded the last boulder to open up to a turquoise glacial lake, reflecting the imposing towers up above. The sun shone down brightly with the deep blue sky radiating out from behind. What a sight.
Neil, Mands, Becky and I took our lunch together in front of the lake and made our way through the only thing larger than some of the boulders, our enormous sandwiches!
Our muscles definitely felt they had had a work out by the time we'd returned to the refugio and gulped down a Coke.
Sunset brought on an amazing sight. The sun dropped behind the torres. With the clear blue sky, it's rays beamed out around the silhouetted towers as if they themselves were projecting. Mands rushed out to take photos and was joined by even the staff taking in the moment.
Day 2.
Refugio Torres Central to Refugio Los Cuernos (12 km, 4.5 hours)
This was our shortest day initially starting off on the same route as the previous day then rounding the front of the mountain. More shrubs grew on the plains and we saw black, brown and white horses out for their morning graze along with the occasional rabbit darting under the growth. Reaching the top of the hill a dark lake appeared then dipped off sharply in contrast against the much larger turquoise lake, Nordenskjold. The first hour and a half we were the only two people on the path, for that time, we were the king and queen of our mountain - it's strange to say, but sometimes you could hear the dead silence. We'd hike the rest of the day next to the lake over the undulating side of the mountain. Although making good time, we took long breaks, just to take in the views and moments of this huge lake wrapped around us. I found a great flat rock section for an early lunch (another brick of a sandwich) and soaked up the warm sun on our backs as the cool breeze washed over our faces.
Although this was a short day, the sweat flowed as we carried our day packs together with our full backpacks. A good 20kgs each. We welcomed the sight of the Los Cuernos Refugio, however had walked well and again glugged down rewarding Cokes.
This refugio was the only one offering private stand alone chalets. Only 8 were available, but Mands had cemented our place with her early booking. Really nice room with the added bonus of an outside hot tub.
We jumped right in, although only luke warm to start and started swirling water around against the wood heated fire place to heat up the water.
That evening, we looked up at the night sky lit up with more stars than we had ever seen!
Day 3.
Refugio Los Cuernos to Refugio Paine Grande, including Valle de Francés (28km, 11 hours)
This was the big day... 5 hours with the 20 kg back packs and another 6 hours with the day packs.
Starting strongly we followed the lakes shoreline up and down hills. A group of American girls sang songs in the distance - not only did I not want to hear their songs, but also they weren't going to win any singing contests. We caught them right on the steepest section of the morning and used them as motivation to charge ahead. It worked wonders as we made good time with the heavier packs.
We could leave our packs at a camp site and follow a river away from the lake, walking up the middle of the W along Valle del Franceś. We clambered up and down rocks, through forests and across melted ice streams. The water was so clear here, you could refill water containers and I drank right from the stream.
Up, up, up we climbed for 3.5 hours until reaching the furtherest view point, mirador Británico. All around huge jagged mountain tops starred down at us. Again, the silence seemed to make a low drum sound in our ears. Every now and then, a crack could be heard with the frozen compact ice blankets breaking under the melting heat and creating small avalanches.
Returning to the camp we collected our larger bags and headed off for the final 7.5 km to Lago Pehoé. Mands was getting blisters and at this stage they became unbearable to walk. We tried bandaging them up, but one particular toe now had blister on top of blister and wasn't letting up. Against her husband's advice she changed into her havianna flip flops and set off for the final 2 hours with a couple of pain killers. That seemed to do the trick as we were back making suggested time. Good time until, I started slowing with groin issues - the day pack clipped to the backpack wasn't the best weight distribution. Eventually we made it into the refugio, with Mands wanting to tell everyone that she wasn't a novice walker hiking in new shoes that gave her blisters, but we'd been in them for 4 months already and not had and problems on the Inca Trail.
Neil had a bottle of red wine waiting and a good dinner and pisco sour cocktail did wonders to end our day.
Day 4.
Refugio Paine Grande to Refugio Grey, including Glacier Grey (12 km, 5 hours)
Flip flops were out again and leading us us Lago Grey towards Glacier Grey!
We hiked in t-shirts in the sun and thermals in the shade. The first view point was over a small mountain lake. It reflected everything in sight against it's dark waters. Shortly afterwards we could see Lago Grey with icebergs floating by. Huge chunks of ice. We continued up and reached the midway viewpoint where we saw Glacier Grey. It's enormous! The glacier starts kilometres in the distance where snow falls, then compacts forming a solid mass kilometres long and wide.
This gave us new energy to push through to the refugio finishing our morning session of 4 hours.
Half an hour further and we had climbed down to the water level to watch the large beast. You can hear it rumbling with the ice shifts. It had been an overcast few hours, but rapidly the skies cleared when our cameras came out and we got some great photos. One boat does tours on the lake and when it arrived, it was dwarfed by the face of the glacier. With the boat about 2 stories high, the glacier was almost 10!
Back at the refugio we could sit down on the couches next to the wood fire heaters and catch up on blog and reading time.
Day 5.
Refugio Grey to Refugio Paine Grande and catamaran / transfer out of the park (11km, 3.5 hours)
This was the easiest day, hiking back the same path as yesterday to complete the W. Again we stared back at the glacier.
What a privilege to have been able to spend this time in such a spectacular part of this world, one of the most beautiful landscapes we have been privileged to visit. We'll look back fondly at this quality time and hope to return one day.
Chile - Puerto Natales
We flew into Punto Arenas from Santiago on a rescheduled (again) flight which was further delayed by about 40 minutes. This would have been no problem except being the super organised person I am I had pre- booked a bus direct from the airport to Puerto Natales saving us having to make our way into Punta Arenas to find a bus. We should have still had an hour between flight an bus but due to the delay we were now cutting it pretty fine.
We landed with zero minutes to spare and decided that since Warren is bigger (and often more persuasive) he would run and hold the bus while I collected the baggage.
Was succeeded in tracking down the bus and asking the driver to wait five minutes. He managed to communicate this through the glass doors to where I was still waiting for our bags to come out. We heard the hooting, that would be our bus signed Warren. What can I do? I signed back. More hooting and we decided it would be best if Warren waited next to the actual bus to delay it departing. The bags came out, I raced to the bus where Warren his now bus driver mate were waiting to load them. We got on the bus and found we had the best seats (except on Bolivia where they are two of the most dangerous) upstairs right in front of the window where we were able to gaze out at our first glimpse of beautiful Patagonia. While the other people waiting on the bus glared at us.
The wide open landscape of Patagonia is incredible, there is just so much open space.
On arrival in Puerto Natales we saw a giant prehistoric bear like creature with a short tail guarding as you entered the town. Turns out it was prehistoric and found in a cave not far from the town - strange looking thing. We had got some directions from the bus station for our hostel, but they weren't particularly good and we could not find it. Somehow I had also book the furthest possible accommodation from the centre of town. It must have had really good reviews online?
We found our way back along the water's edge to the tourist information where we managed to get a map with the hostel's location drawn on to it and finally found our way.
Puerto Natales is a tiny place, along Sena Ultimata Esperanzo ,an inlet from the Pacific Ocean. There is a main road, a small plaza and a lot of pretty little corrugated tin buildings painted in varying colours. It still feels like a fishing village when you venture off the main street which is full of outdoor shops.
We headed out for dinner, taking Liz and Felipe's advice to try Patagonian lamb and salmon. El Asador's food was amazing!
The following day we had a 2.30pm bus booked to head out to Torres del Paine. A quick wonder through town to pick up some provisions for our 5 day trek and to try and find Warren a new fleece (he had left his on a bus) and were ready to go.
Half an hour before the bus left Warren again headed off to panic buy a fleece. He grabbed a no name brand grey £12 fleece and made it back to the bus as I was loading our bags. Off to Torres very excited!
P.S. On arrival at the Refugio Was whipped out his panic buy fleece only to discover it was a bit of a crop top. Those who have seen his panic buy triathlon top will realise this crop top thing is becoming a trend.
We landed with zero minutes to spare and decided that since Warren is bigger (and often more persuasive) he would run and hold the bus while I collected the baggage.
Was succeeded in tracking down the bus and asking the driver to wait five minutes. He managed to communicate this through the glass doors to where I was still waiting for our bags to come out. We heard the hooting, that would be our bus signed Warren. What can I do? I signed back. More hooting and we decided it would be best if Warren waited next to the actual bus to delay it departing. The bags came out, I raced to the bus where Warren his now bus driver mate were waiting to load them. We got on the bus and found we had the best seats (except on Bolivia where they are two of the most dangerous) upstairs right in front of the window where we were able to gaze out at our first glimpse of beautiful Patagonia. While the other people waiting on the bus glared at us.
The wide open landscape of Patagonia is incredible, there is just so much open space.
On arrival in Puerto Natales we saw a giant prehistoric bear like creature with a short tail guarding as you entered the town. Turns out it was prehistoric and found in a cave not far from the town - strange looking thing. We had got some directions from the bus station for our hostel, but they weren't particularly good and we could not find it. Somehow I had also book the furthest possible accommodation from the centre of town. It must have had really good reviews online?
We found our way back along the water's edge to the tourist information where we managed to get a map with the hostel's location drawn on to it and finally found our way.
Puerto Natales is a tiny place, along Sena Ultimata Esperanzo ,an inlet from the Pacific Ocean. There is a main road, a small plaza and a lot of pretty little corrugated tin buildings painted in varying colours. It still feels like a fishing village when you venture off the main street which is full of outdoor shops.
We headed out for dinner, taking Liz and Felipe's advice to try Patagonian lamb and salmon. El Asador's food was amazing!
The following day we had a 2.30pm bus booked to head out to Torres del Paine. A quick wonder through town to pick up some provisions for our 5 day trek and to try and find Warren a new fleece (he had left his on a bus) and were ready to go.
Half an hour before the bus left Warren again headed off to panic buy a fleece. He grabbed a no name brand grey £12 fleece and made it back to the bus as I was loading our bags. Off to Torres very excited!
P.S. On arrival at the Refugio Was whipped out his panic buy fleece only to discover it was a bit of a crop top. Those who have seen his panic buy triathlon top will realise this crop top thing is becoming a trend.
Wednesday 20 March 2013
Argentina - Buenos Aires (tango, futbol, wine and steak)
Our hostel, El Petite Vitraux, had rave reviews and from the moment we walked in we were impressed with Mike and Elena's friendliness and hospitality. They live in Monserrat in a grand building with high ceilings and elegant finishings. They helped us with information about everything we were interested in and booked activities for us. I think Elena was more excited then us about the Tango and Mike nervous about his steak recommendation after hearing about the steak club. Anyway, here's how you do 72 hours in Buenos Aires...
During breakfast we confirmed what we wanted to do, where to go and booked the key items. Our self guided walking tour started mid morning along Avenida 9 de Julio. It's an extremely wide road honouring Argentina's Independence from Spain (1816). It boasts 7 lanes in each direction, lined with trees and shops, a main artery to the heart beat of the city.
Passed the Obelisk and down the touristy pedestrianised streets with touts calling out for us to join their parrilla for lunch. We didn't enjoy this area, but I was able to pick up trousers to tango (both of my travelling trousers have zip off legs, now different colours after several washes) and an Argentinian futbol shirt that would come in handy the next day.
On to Plaza de Mayo where stands the Casa Rosada (The Pink House), the presidential house of Argentina with the famous balcony with Eva Peron (Evita).
Mike had recommended a more local lunch spot, a parilla called El Desnivel, along cobbled streets and in the antique area. I reminded Mands of our "you buy it you carry it" rule as she browsed through.
Cafe Tortoni on Avenida de Mayo, is well over 100 years (opened 1858), and our chosen afternoon tea unwind cafe. The maitre'd showed us towards our table passed some of the original early decor to be greeted by our bow tie'ed waiter. Soon we sipped on the house special hot chocolate and churros (pastry sticks you dip in coffee or hot chocolate) and followed it down with a glass of our new summer afternoon favourite, Torrentes white wine.
Back to change and ready for our tango pickup. We wanted a lesson together with the regular show and dinner. Some of the shows house hundreds of guest in grand affairs, however we were looking for a more intimate option. We found this with Compleje Tango. About 50 people arrived and started off with the lesson. An hour later we were 6 stepping, ocho'ing and throwing tango poses for the camera. I, this always happens, was selected to do a final dance off pose against another couple. I like to think we destroyed them.
Our dinner and show table was right in the middle of the stage so we had great views of the show with lightening fast kicks, sultry poses and almost feel all of the attitude that accompanies a tango. The great food and captivating show wouldn't be complete before again being called on to dance among the dinner tables with one of the leggy performers. I threw out my best moves and poses until after the 3rd blue steel "photo pose", she said that the pose isn't a continual part of the dance, but rather a once off when the camera is out. Tango night was definitely a highlight.
Day 2 started with further walking tours now with a short stop off at Theatro Colon before taxi'ing to the Recoleta Cemetery. An enormous tree greeted us on the lawn outside (Jim from Tango says second largest in the world!) before entering the famous cemetery of Evita and other celebrated Argentinians. Each mausoleum replicated Greek temples, Chapels or similar ambitious structures. Each towers over you in an imposing way. Apparently Evita, who fought for the poor, was not a welcome addition in this super wealthy cemetery, but now her families mausoleum has queues waiting to get a glimpse.
Off across the city to the more affluent and trendy area of Palermo for more wondering and soaking up of Buenos Aires life.
To get to grips with Argentinians you need to experience the true essence of what runs through their veins, yes, football. Luckily there was a international World Cup qualifying futbol match against Venezuela and further luck allowed us to get tickets! We joined a tour and stopped for cervezas and pizza before being dropped at the ground, River Plate Futbol Stadium.
Messi is arguably the best player in the world and captain of the Argentinean team. It was clear from the start that he was the people's champion as every shirt bar two that we saw were number 10 - Messi. Fans chanted his name and the stadium erupted when he assisted in 2 goals and scored one himself. Quite something to watch him play and a great experience to watch the Argentinean passion in the stadium.
With a half day left we visited La Boca, known as the birthplace of Tango. The old shipyard is now full of painted houses and pedestrianised streets play host to tango dancers dancing and posing, for a price. I couldn't help but get a photo with Maradona and got the photo for half the asking price.
So in Buenos Aires we'd drank Argentinian wine, danced the tango, watched a futbol game, so the only thing left was the steak.
Our final adventure took us to an upmarket (not a backpack to be seen) specialist steak restaurant on the docks, Cabana Las Lilas. Mike recommended this as great steak and not touristy as some of the other known steak houses. As it was a hot sunny day, we chose to sit out on the deck and sipped on a cool glass of Torrentes wine I selected from the 100 page wine menu and enjoyed our included-in-the-cover-charge starters (at a price). We ordered mains and decided on a Malbec to complement. The steaks arrived looking great with their cow shaped labels showing how they had been cooked. I ordered the ojo de bife (rib-eye), muy jugoso (very juicy aka rare) and Mands the Bife de chorizo (sirloin), jugoso (juicy aka medium rare). Argentinians tend to cook it medium / medium well if you don't specify. Well, Mandy's sirloin was the best she'd ever eaten in a restaurant and would be in my top 5! My rib-eye was good, but definitely trumped by that sirloin.
Getting back at the hostel, Mike opened the door and I could see his look of anticipation on how we enjoyed the steak. I decided to mess with him saying it was very regular before coming out with the good news. He was one relieved man.
We did well painting Beunos Aires red , but definitely have some unfinished business in Argentina. We're still to find the little known steak cafe with the magic formula, get a grip on mate and watch a Pumas rugby game. We've done well for now, so don't cry for me Argentina!
PS. We are still struggling to say Buenos Aires correctly without the Aires sounding like a pirate. Arrrr
Sunday 17 March 2013
Chile - Santiago
With Santiago having 4 bus station, we were glad to have landed up at the correct one that we had directions from. Before taking the metro, we needed some local currency, Chilean Pesos. A quick confirmation of the exchange rate and practice of our 700 times table (yes, C$700 to £1) and we took the comfortable metro a few stops towards the Briggs Academy.
Liz is one of Mandy's best friends and we'd be staying with her and her husband, Felipe, for 5 days. It wasn't possible for us to make their wedding, so this is some make up time. Liz and Philipe set up an English school, the Briggs Academy, less than 3 years ago and it seems to be doing really well. A block away we even received a flyer for the academy and directions in. With Union Jacks flying proudly and books on The Queen and London in photos decking the coffee table, we new it was the right place. Liz introduced us to her staff an Musetta, her dog who we'd grow fond of over the coming days.
Lizzie's house keeper kindly made us a fantastic traditional Chilean dish, Pastel de chocolo (maize casserole and chicken). We saw the morning in with one of Mandy's and Lizzie's favourite activities, wine.
Felipe and Lizzie took the day off work to take us to the coast. An hour and a half drive away is Vina del Mar. En route we stopped off at a winery, Indomita (tbc) on the top of a hill looking down over it's vineyard and to The Andes range behind. Splendid lunch and great wines topped off with a walk through the vineyards with Musetta leading the way.
The sun was shining and we'd packed costumes, so we walked along the each and then swim time. One obstacle was the water temperature - bloody cold! Not deterred, Lizzie and I dived in (briefly) and ran out before the strong currents and waves had any chance to get hold of us.
Half an hour along the coast is Valparaiso, a really nice more bohemian area build high up on the hill overlooking the port. We really liked the colourful houses hosting, hostels, hotels, shops and restaurants. We stopped for pisco sours (regular, ginger and basil) sundowners and some nibbles and watched the sky erupt into pink as the sun set.
The next day, after a morning of catch up chats, Lizzie marked of The Briggs walking tour of Santiago and Mands and I headed off to see what this city had to offer.
First was a walk away from the city passing the leafy streets with people walking and cycling around and through a suburb of large detatched houses to San Christobal park.
The paths wound through the park towards the cable car. The Fenicular had not been working since last major earthquake. There are plans in place to build a new cable car expanding into newer developed areas, so the old one isn't being repaired. A road runs, winding up the mountain to the top peak, so we wouldn't miss out. Walking the 3.5 km we were passed by cyclists and joggers out for their lunch time training.
You really get a good perspective over the city's different suburbs from older areas through to the latest engineering marvels. Santiago has many things going for it, bar one curse of living surrounded by mountains... with little wind passing through ever present smog hangs, caught over the city. We never felt any problems, but it was always there.
Rio has Christ the Redeemer, and Santiago has Santa Maria watching over the city from the mountains peak. We walked around and a church and open prayer area with the minister holding hourly prayers.
Before taking the bus down, we shared a xxx de Mote - this is a peach juice with two whole peaches and barley in the bottle, half meal half drink.
Already pushing into mid afternoon, the bus dropped us at the bottom of the mountain in the Bellavista area. Completos (hot dogs) provided my lunch - stands are all around and they pile in ingredients like guacamole, onion, mayonnaise, tomatoes together with various salsas available.
A small restaurant and retail area lured us in. One shop had some wine racks - Mandy is now adamant that she will be designing a wine rack for us and we'll build one. A good project I'm looking forward to.
The area is a big student and arty hangout with numerous bars and late night clubs lining a few blocks. It's clear this is where it kicks off at night.
Our route took us through a park with street dogs (so many around South America), people relaxing, others making out passionately, a small park library and some kennels - for the homeless dogs.
Soon we were in the main plaza, Plaza de Armas. Lizzie had mentioned the chess games, and there they were, a good 25 or so games on the go. One table had 10 people spectating, perhaps the plaza champion was out!
Our own walking tour ended at Liz's training institute to meet up before Philipe took us to their favourite steak restaurant, Xxx. It's a converted cinema and has movie posters all around it's large floor area. Felipe and I shared half of my Vetado xxx steak and his Bife de Angosto xxx steak together with my recommended Chilean side of chips, fried onion and fried eggs (itself a full meal) - a good night out, but still not breaking into Steak Club top 10.
On Saturday we drove up a mountain valley in the south, just outside Santiago for a lunch at a great Italian restaurant with large grounds. We were joined by their friends, Lee and Riccardo. After lunch it was liqueur time and "the minute of trust" - 4 bottles of liqueur were brought out and we could effectively pour the shots ourselves and sneak refills during the minute. All sounds fine, except the minute turned into an hour and we came pretty close to finishing all 4 bottles. Needless to say the flamingo drinking technique and "the hoola" down down song came out to help us through.
A small lake followed as some chose siestas while others (Mands, me, Lizzie, Filipe and Musetta) rafted around and raced canoes.
Our final day was my best. Filipe had visited the butcher and we were off for a Chilean assado. A good hour drive north and we twisted around hair pin bends to a secluded picnic area, nestled between the mountains and under the shade of large pine trees.
While Filipe, our Assador, prepared the fuego and meat, Musetta bravely protected our perimeter from any local dogs getting too interested. First he brought out small pork sausages to get us interested, then Vetada steak as starters (11/10 - Top 3 steak easy) and as a finale, a whole fillet, again 11/10. Lizzie ensured our wine glasses were full and had accompanying sides on hand. Easily the best meal we have had in South America and right up there with the best Summer Sizzle steak we've ever had. Forget Argentina, if you're looking for South America's best steak, it's in Chile - just ask for Assador Philipe.
Back at the house we somehow managed cheese and wine and continued conversations with good friends.
Lizzie, Philipe and Musetta, huge thanks for a memorable week.
Now brush off the thermals as it's time for Mandy's most anticipated region, Patagonia!
Liz is one of Mandy's best friends and we'd be staying with her and her husband, Felipe, for 5 days. It wasn't possible for us to make their wedding, so this is some make up time. Liz and Philipe set up an English school, the Briggs Academy, less than 3 years ago and it seems to be doing really well. A block away we even received a flyer for the academy and directions in. With Union Jacks flying proudly and books on The Queen and London in photos decking the coffee table, we new it was the right place. Liz introduced us to her staff an Musetta, her dog who we'd grow fond of over the coming days.
Lizzie's house keeper kindly made us a fantastic traditional Chilean dish, Pastel de chocolo (maize casserole and chicken). We saw the morning in with one of Mandy's and Lizzie's favourite activities, wine.
Felipe and Lizzie took the day off work to take us to the coast. An hour and a half drive away is Vina del Mar. En route we stopped off at a winery, Indomita (tbc) on the top of a hill looking down over it's vineyard and to The Andes range behind. Splendid lunch and great wines topped off with a walk through the vineyards with Musetta leading the way.
The sun was shining and we'd packed costumes, so we walked along the each and then swim time. One obstacle was the water temperature - bloody cold! Not deterred, Lizzie and I dived in (briefly) and ran out before the strong currents and waves had any chance to get hold of us.
Half an hour along the coast is Valparaiso, a really nice more bohemian area build high up on the hill overlooking the port. We really liked the colourful houses hosting, hostels, hotels, shops and restaurants. We stopped for pisco sours (regular, ginger and basil) sundowners and some nibbles and watched the sky erupt into pink as the sun set.
The next day, after a morning of catch up chats, Lizzie marked of The Briggs walking tour of Santiago and Mands and I headed off to see what this city had to offer.
First was a walk away from the city passing the leafy streets with people walking and cycling around and through a suburb of large detatched houses to San Christobal park.
The paths wound through the park towards the cable car. The Fenicular had not been working since last major earthquake. There are plans in place to build a new cable car expanding into newer developed areas, so the old one isn't being repaired. A road runs, winding up the mountain to the top peak, so we wouldn't miss out. Walking the 3.5 km we were passed by cyclists and joggers out for their lunch time training.
You really get a good perspective over the city's different suburbs from older areas through to the latest engineering marvels. Santiago has many things going for it, bar one curse of living surrounded by mountains... with little wind passing through ever present smog hangs, caught over the city. We never felt any problems, but it was always there.
Rio has Christ the Redeemer, and Santiago has Santa Maria watching over the city from the mountains peak. We walked around and a church and open prayer area with the minister holding hourly prayers.
Before taking the bus down, we shared a xxx de Mote - this is a peach juice with two whole peaches and barley in the bottle, half meal half drink.
Already pushing into mid afternoon, the bus dropped us at the bottom of the mountain in the Bellavista area. Completos (hot dogs) provided my lunch - stands are all around and they pile in ingredients like guacamole, onion, mayonnaise, tomatoes together with various salsas available.
A small restaurant and retail area lured us in. One shop had some wine racks - Mandy is now adamant that she will be designing a wine rack for us and we'll build one. A good project I'm looking forward to.
The area is a big student and arty hangout with numerous bars and late night clubs lining a few blocks. It's clear this is where it kicks off at night.
Our route took us through a park with street dogs (so many around South America), people relaxing, others making out passionately, a small park library and some kennels - for the homeless dogs.
Soon we were in the main plaza, Plaza de Armas. Lizzie had mentioned the chess games, and there they were, a good 25 or so games on the go. One table had 10 people spectating, perhaps the plaza champion was out!
Our own walking tour ended at Liz's training institute to meet up before Philipe took us to their favourite steak restaurant, Xxx. It's a converted cinema and has movie posters all around it's large floor area. Felipe and I shared half of my Vetado xxx steak and his Bife de Angosto xxx steak together with my recommended Chilean side of chips, fried onion and fried eggs (itself a full meal) - a good night out, but still not breaking into Steak Club top 10.
On Saturday we drove up a mountain valley in the south, just outside Santiago for a lunch at a great Italian restaurant with large grounds. We were joined by their friends, Lee and Riccardo. After lunch it was liqueur time and "the minute of trust" - 4 bottles of liqueur were brought out and we could effectively pour the shots ourselves and sneak refills during the minute. All sounds fine, except the minute turned into an hour and we came pretty close to finishing all 4 bottles. Needless to say the flamingo drinking technique and "the hoola" down down song came out to help us through.
A small lake followed as some chose siestas while others (Mands, me, Lizzie, Filipe and Musetta) rafted around and raced canoes.
Our final day was my best. Filipe had visited the butcher and we were off for a Chilean assado. A good hour drive north and we twisted around hair pin bends to a secluded picnic area, nestled between the mountains and under the shade of large pine trees.
While Filipe, our Assador, prepared the fuego and meat, Musetta bravely protected our perimeter from any local dogs getting too interested. First he brought out small pork sausages to get us interested, then Vetada steak as starters (11/10 - Top 3 steak easy) and as a finale, a whole fillet, again 11/10. Lizzie ensured our wine glasses were full and had accompanying sides on hand. Easily the best meal we have had in South America and right up there with the best Summer Sizzle steak we've ever had. Forget Argentina, if you're looking for South America's best steak, it's in Chile - just ask for Assador Philipe.
Back at the house we somehow managed cheese and wine and continued conversations with good friends.
Lizzie, Philipe and Musetta, huge thanks for a memorable week.
Now brush off the thermals as it's time for Mandy's most anticipated region, Patagonia!
Argentina / Chile - Border Crossing
We left the flatter wine lands and climbed steeply with ever present snow capped peaks above us. A lake signifies the end point of the fast flowing river that is used for rafting.
A train line twists next to the road interspersed with small villages, always with a church.
The boarder post is almost on top of the world. You can feel the temperature difference with the wind blowing icy air. When we climbed out of the bus, I said that it was Chile, Mands agreed that it was cold, so I pointed our: "No, we're in Chile."
Although well organised and controlled throughout, the crossing process takes 2 hours. Chilean police and services are known for their effectiveness and non-corrupt ethics - could do with shipping them out to South Africa. Every single piece of hand luggage and larger stowed bag was security scanned and sniffed (not the efficient police, but their highly trained dogs).
Everyone passed and we were off. Chilean side is much more steep and has hair pin bends. We've only seen such roads driving up to ski resorts before. That said, it was quite fitting that there were ski lifts on the mountain next to us for the winter season.
We continued to Santiago where we'd have a much anticipated week with friends.
Argentina - Mendoza
A long 18 hour, but super comfortable magic (large leather cama seats, movies, drinks and meals) bus later, we were almost in Mendoza from Salta. I couldn't believe how popular size of the highway asado's (bbq's) were. It was a Sunday and every kilometre or so, there was a small public hut with asado facilities and all of them were used - right there in the middle of nowhere. Meat is serious business here. It reminded me of when I was younger in South Africa and stopping of the side of the road for a picnic to break up a long journey - pitty, not sure anyone does this anymore.
Probably only a 5 minute cheap taxi ride away we arrived at Hostel Lao. Lizzie had recommended it and Mands booked ages ago. Even so we had the first night in a shared dorm and next two nights back in a double. A shared dorm is a great way to meet people, but the benefits stop there. The hostel is really good with friendly well informed staff and large well kept common areas and garden with hammocks, bed loungers and pool. Probably makes our top 3 hostels.
In the afternoon we caught a tourist bus for a trip around the largest park I've ever seen, Parque St Martin. It's got everything, a logoa with rowing regatta on when we were there, football stadium, bmx tracks, zoo, theatre, rugby/hockey/football, cafe's and acres of trees and grass areas. Being a Sunday, families picnicked all around - many had tables and chairs with them and everyone had their thermos for matte (tea). We'd learnt about customs and rules for drinking matte so picked up on these being put into action. Everyone says the English drink lots of tea, but they have nothing on the Argentinians who are never without a thermos at their side and their special cup and metal straw.
On our way back we walked through the bustling main plaza, Plaza Indepencia. It too was large and craft stalls ran along the paths showing off their wares including, jewellery, leather goods, wine holders, home industries foods and jams. We stopped close by for a sundowner of Andes Cerveca (1 litre, they come big) and Mands ordered a suggested Argentinean rum and coke that tasted like minty mouth wash.
Aristdes Villaneuva is a great street with wide sidewalks and lined with bars and restaurants. Chairs and tables dominated the pavement with a vibey feel from the conversations of hundreds of revellers. We stopped for a glass of wine and barley wine beer before settling down at a restaurant under the oak trees and shared a steak with mushroom sauce.
The new day brought on excitement for the very reason Mendoza is famous, wine. We bussed out to collect bicycles from Baccus bike tours and map for the wine route. The itinerary scheduled 5 stops, but were having such an interesting time at the 3rd we didn't make the other two.
On our bicycles, we headed out down the oak liked road between vineyards and a stunning snow capped Andes mountain range as a backdrop. A few wrong turns added half an hour on to our twenty minute first leg, but some local guidance brought us back on track.
1) Carmelo Patty - small producer. The famous wine maker who has produced one of the top 10 wines in the world in 2010, his Cabernet Sauvignon. Arriving, we were greater by a grey haired, Spanish only speaking man and taken to the adjacent room to taste some wine. Magazines and photos lay all around and soon we realised we were with Carmelo Patty himself. We had heavy handed servings of three of his wines and learnt about his process, timings and temperatures. For instance his merlot should be poured into a cravat for an hour, the cravat placed on ice to bring it's temperature down to 15 to 18 degrees and served after an hour. The tasting was for free and we were pleasantly surprised that he provided personal attention like that for us. Apparently his wine is available in the UK under the Pappas label. We've a nice photo of us and Carmelo.
2) Lagarde - large producer. This cost P$30 and included tour and tasting. An experienced sommelier (wine specialist) took us round. It's harvesting time, so we were luckily enough to see grapes being loaded for the start of the winery process, de-stalking. With a suction, grapes are then removed from the stalks and the stalks shredded. We learnt about the French oak and American oak barrels and how few uses each barrel has. Premium wines get first use, then standard wines, then supermarket wines. French oak costs €1,200 and after it's used, sold for P$200 (€45). We learnt about their top wine, Henry, and many other really interesting facts. A further 3 wines and we were, as mum would say, on our bicycles.
We found an unmarked road leading through a vineyard, so headed down it - amazing scenery. No one was picking over lunch time, so we headed on.
3) Pulmary, an all organic wine producer. A lady took us on the small winery tour into the old basement concrete vats and gave us wines along the tour. She kept on responding to our questions with I and again we figured out that we were with the actual wine maker! A Swiss couple and us spent over an hour talking to her. 16 years ago they wanted to do something new and by chance landed up in wine - her husband is a lawyer and helped out someone and didn't ask for any money in return. The person they had helped later came and dropped of cases and cases of premium wine - as their pallets matured so their interest grew. They bought land and started growing from scratch. 5 years to sell the first bottle, 10 years vineyard break even, will take 20 years to pay off the winery, 5 family members full or part time involved and 4 full time employees. The most important advice she was given when starting was (1) live near your vineyards, they need constant attention (2) in the winery, the detail matters.
The Swiss couple were doing their 3rd round the world travel year! We bought a bottle of Pulmary's blend and shared traveller tales. Their best story is about laundry in China... At one hostel/hotel they asked whether they could get their laundry done. Yes was the response and they should wait in there room for 10 minutes first. They thought it strange, but 10 minutes later there was a knock on the door. Roger opened and their they stood with a washing machine. They had carried it up the steps and now plugged and plumbed it into their room to allow the travellers to do their own laundry - a complete misunderstanding!
Well after bike hire drop off time we eventually returned the bikes and bussed back into Mendoza's centre after a great day.
Don Mario (Dorrego) steakhouse was recommended by our hostel and Trip Advisor as the best grill. When we arrived it was a fancier place than we had imagined and got right into our shared Bife de Chorizo chips and salad (palm hearts, avo and tomato). Wow 7 cm high steak! I've not had a steak that thick before. Brown roasting on the outside and pink with plenty of blood on the inside. They grill the meat on a lower heat and for much longer that what I'm familiar with. And result... Enjoyable steak, but unfortunately not close to top 10.
Our final full day in Mendoza was spent initially exploring plazas, small Plaza Espana being the best. We bought a picnic lunch of salami, cheese, olives and Torentes wine.
We walked back to Parque St Martin and set up next to lagoon we'd seen the regatta at previously. We watched joggers, cyclists and roller bladers pass as we sipped, ate, red and slept our way through the afternoon.
That evening, Mands was feeling a little steaked out, but convinced her for one last outing - I think the wine and a few beers along the people watching pedestrianised Paseo Sarmiento helped.
We picked a restaurant along Avenue Sarmiento purely based on size and quantity of meat on display in the window fronted kitchen. Mands had the bife de fillet and I had the buffet de lomo. Much better both steaks than the previous night, but again similar grilling method and thick steaks. Perhaps such thick steaks need this time. I have learnt that from ordering to eating, expect one hour. I'll add this to my steak knowledge.
I take away from Mendoza that the people are friendly and happy to help, the wine is good, the city is a pleasure to visit and they like their rugby (took all of 1 minute for a waiter to talk about the Springboks).
The next morning was the impressive Andes bus border crossing into Chile, to Santiago, Lizzie and Felipe!
Probably only a 5 minute cheap taxi ride away we arrived at Hostel Lao. Lizzie had recommended it and Mands booked ages ago. Even so we had the first night in a shared dorm and next two nights back in a double. A shared dorm is a great way to meet people, but the benefits stop there. The hostel is really good with friendly well informed staff and large well kept common areas and garden with hammocks, bed loungers and pool. Probably makes our top 3 hostels.
In the afternoon we caught a tourist bus for a trip around the largest park I've ever seen, Parque St Martin. It's got everything, a logoa with rowing regatta on when we were there, football stadium, bmx tracks, zoo, theatre, rugby/hockey/football, cafe's and acres of trees and grass areas. Being a Sunday, families picnicked all around - many had tables and chairs with them and everyone had their thermos for matte (tea). We'd learnt about customs and rules for drinking matte so picked up on these being put into action. Everyone says the English drink lots of tea, but they have nothing on the Argentinians who are never without a thermos at their side and their special cup and metal straw.
On our way back we walked through the bustling main plaza, Plaza Indepencia. It too was large and craft stalls ran along the paths showing off their wares including, jewellery, leather goods, wine holders, home industries foods and jams. We stopped close by for a sundowner of Andes Cerveca (1 litre, they come big) and Mands ordered a suggested Argentinean rum and coke that tasted like minty mouth wash.
Aristdes Villaneuva is a great street with wide sidewalks and lined with bars and restaurants. Chairs and tables dominated the pavement with a vibey feel from the conversations of hundreds of revellers. We stopped for a glass of wine and barley wine beer before settling down at a restaurant under the oak trees and shared a steak with mushroom sauce.
The new day brought on excitement for the very reason Mendoza is famous, wine. We bussed out to collect bicycles from Baccus bike tours and map for the wine route. The itinerary scheduled 5 stops, but were having such an interesting time at the 3rd we didn't make the other two.
On our bicycles, we headed out down the oak liked road between vineyards and a stunning snow capped Andes mountain range as a backdrop. A few wrong turns added half an hour on to our twenty minute first leg, but some local guidance brought us back on track.
1) Carmelo Patty - small producer. The famous wine maker who has produced one of the top 10 wines in the world in 2010, his Cabernet Sauvignon. Arriving, we were greater by a grey haired, Spanish only speaking man and taken to the adjacent room to taste some wine. Magazines and photos lay all around and soon we realised we were with Carmelo Patty himself. We had heavy handed servings of three of his wines and learnt about his process, timings and temperatures. For instance his merlot should be poured into a cravat for an hour, the cravat placed on ice to bring it's temperature down to 15 to 18 degrees and served after an hour. The tasting was for free and we were pleasantly surprised that he provided personal attention like that for us. Apparently his wine is available in the UK under the Pappas label. We've a nice photo of us and Carmelo.
2) Lagarde - large producer. This cost P$30 and included tour and tasting. An experienced sommelier (wine specialist) took us round. It's harvesting time, so we were luckily enough to see grapes being loaded for the start of the winery process, de-stalking. With a suction, grapes are then removed from the stalks and the stalks shredded. We learnt about the French oak and American oak barrels and how few uses each barrel has. Premium wines get first use, then standard wines, then supermarket wines. French oak costs €1,200 and after it's used, sold for P$200 (€45). We learnt about their top wine, Henry, and many other really interesting facts. A further 3 wines and we were, as mum would say, on our bicycles.
We found an unmarked road leading through a vineyard, so headed down it - amazing scenery. No one was picking over lunch time, so we headed on.
3) Pulmary, an all organic wine producer. A lady took us on the small winery tour into the old basement concrete vats and gave us wines along the tour. She kept on responding to our questions with I and again we figured out that we were with the actual wine maker! A Swiss couple and us spent over an hour talking to her. 16 years ago they wanted to do something new and by chance landed up in wine - her husband is a lawyer and helped out someone and didn't ask for any money in return. The person they had helped later came and dropped of cases and cases of premium wine - as their pallets matured so their interest grew. They bought land and started growing from scratch. 5 years to sell the first bottle, 10 years vineyard break even, will take 20 years to pay off the winery, 5 family members full or part time involved and 4 full time employees. The most important advice she was given when starting was (1) live near your vineyards, they need constant attention (2) in the winery, the detail matters.
The Swiss couple were doing their 3rd round the world travel year! We bought a bottle of Pulmary's blend and shared traveller tales. Their best story is about laundry in China... At one hostel/hotel they asked whether they could get their laundry done. Yes was the response and they should wait in there room for 10 minutes first. They thought it strange, but 10 minutes later there was a knock on the door. Roger opened and their they stood with a washing machine. They had carried it up the steps and now plugged and plumbed it into their room to allow the travellers to do their own laundry - a complete misunderstanding!
Well after bike hire drop off time we eventually returned the bikes and bussed back into Mendoza's centre after a great day.
Don Mario (Dorrego) steakhouse was recommended by our hostel and Trip Advisor as the best grill. When we arrived it was a fancier place than we had imagined and got right into our shared Bife de Chorizo chips and salad (palm hearts, avo and tomato). Wow 7 cm high steak! I've not had a steak that thick before. Brown roasting on the outside and pink with plenty of blood on the inside. They grill the meat on a lower heat and for much longer that what I'm familiar with. And result... Enjoyable steak, but unfortunately not close to top 10.
Our final full day in Mendoza was spent initially exploring plazas, small Plaza Espana being the best. We bought a picnic lunch of salami, cheese, olives and Torentes wine.
We walked back to Parque St Martin and set up next to lagoon we'd seen the regatta at previously. We watched joggers, cyclists and roller bladers pass as we sipped, ate, red and slept our way through the afternoon.
That evening, Mands was feeling a little steaked out, but convinced her for one last outing - I think the wine and a few beers along the people watching pedestrianised Paseo Sarmiento helped.
We picked a restaurant along Avenue Sarmiento purely based on size and quantity of meat on display in the window fronted kitchen. Mands had the bife de fillet and I had the buffet de lomo. Much better both steaks than the previous night, but again similar grilling method and thick steaks. Perhaps such thick steaks need this time. I have learnt that from ordering to eating, expect one hour. I'll add this to my steak knowledge.
I take away from Mendoza that the people are friendly and happy to help, the wine is good, the city is a pleasure to visit and they like their rugby (took all of 1 minute for a waiter to talk about the Springboks).
The next morning was the impressive Andes bus border crossing into Chile, to Santiago, Lizzie and Felipe!
Argentina - Quebrada de Cafayate (sandstone formations)
We drove about 20 km leaving Cafayate's vineyards and the Sierra de Carahuasi mountains started. Our first stop was for a short walk into a section of mountains where we could see the weathered effect of rain, rivers and the wind on the sandstone rocks. Non-descript features were smoothly carved out. The rocks contain different minerals that bring out various shades of red. The whole range is a protected area, so no climbing to get pride rock photos like on the Salt Flats tour.
Every few kilometres we'd stop at a recognisable formation. First the Los Castillos (The Castles), then the El Obelisco (The Obelisk) and on to do another walk, this time for an hour.
Although clouds were out they would pass over highlighting the bright minerals as they let the sun through. Reds, greens, creams, browns, blacks and yellows shone out across the vast landscape. Here we climbed up onto hills for impressive views.
Further on the tour passed El Sapo (The Toad) to a mirador at the Three Crosses. the last two stops were the most impressive...
El Amfiteatro (The Amphitheatre) is a natural carved out by water. It must be twenty stories high. You walk through a narrow opening to a circular room that throws any sounds off against the walls. It reminded me of the TV series, Airwolf, from the 80's where the helicopter takes off vertically from it's top secret location. A man played on a wooden flute to promote his CD, so we could get a taste of what concerts in here could be like - they do actually host musical events in this amphitheater. It must be quite a sight and sound. This was definitely my favourite.
Finally it was the turn of Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat). This was the same height as the amphitheatre, but curved around a corner. This we could scale the rocks up different levels until we could go no further. After all of our climbing experience on this holiday, we are scrambling over obstacles like mountain goats, compared to others.
After the tour we waited 2 hours under the shade of a cool tree while the sun beat down around us. 3 hardened looking backpackers also took in the shade - they looked like they'd been travelling for years before their halfhearted attempt to catch a bus going in the opposite direction resulted in them missing it and deciding to start walking the 50 km's to Cafayate.
On the road again to pass through Salta before the heading to Argentina's wine and rugby capital, Mandoza.
Tuesday 12 March 2013
Argentina - Cafayate
We didn't have a hostel booked, but were really happy with our second viewing at Rusky-K with it's wide courtyard, grapevines and friendly atmosphere. The first hostel we looked at had a double with no outside windows.
Lunch was empanadas and salami on the main plaza, before Mands headed back for some downtime and I went exploring around town.
TripAdvisor rated a wine tasting shop, Chato's, off the main plaza highly for it's informative sommelier owner. Mands and I wondered around town before landing up there for a tasting of Cafayate's finest and another cold meats and olives platter. We learnt about the regions unique grape and wine, Torrentes. This white is known as The Liar as it's aroma is sweet, hiding the dryer taste below. We had a few of these across Argentina, a good summer afternoon choice. The owner rater South African Pinotage when he heard where we were from. He gave us two recommendations for wineries we'd visit cycling the next day.
Midmorning, after picking up the bikes we headed out on our wine tour. Passing the plaza, I said hello in by best Spanish to a street dog crossing the road (yes, sounds a little odd). The dog seemed to respond and then led us out of the town and along the road. The winery is 2 km out of town and this dog ran along with us the whole way. Normally Mands is the one dogs sniff out, but this time it was me. Quite taken by this I recorded a video of our pack making our way along the road.
At the winery / bodega we had 10 minutes before the tour, so our new friend gulped down some hosepipe water and found a place next to our bikes to wait for us to finish out tour. Etchart, is a larger winery and a knowledgable sommelier took us around in Spanish - we are now following a good deal of conversation, and where we look a little confused she repeats in English. The really informative tour was topped off with a 5 wine tasting, all for free. All of the wines are good here. Here I also learnt what Mands would come to despise, the way to properly enjoy your wine, bringing out all the aroma and flavour (lots of swirling and a aerating noises followed by a deep breath - I would do this for each sip in the coming days).
Our new friend rand back to town with us before deciding the 5km winery sounded a bit far and let us head off alone.
Finca de Las Nubes farm housed a small vineyard and winery. It had great views from the base of the mountain across the vineyard and over the town. Although only 5 km, we sweated it up the dust road climb and luckily I had a change of shirt on hand.
I ordered a bottle of their finest along with a lunch platter that we could ease through during the afternoon. It's so much more relaxed than South African more luxury high end vineyards.
We ended up staying the whole afternoon and well passed closing time. We bought another Torrentes and lazed the sun down - intermittently interrupted by their excited about chewing puppy.
We again headed to the plaza for an evening "knertsie" when Hola, our wine tour dog, arrived to have a snooze next to us. The plaza is beautiful at night with the church lit up and the yellow lights eliminating the trees. We've been through a few towns and cities now and the South American's have got it right with plazas. They are well maintained and regularly used by old, young, locals and travellers alike.
Mands and I strolled around the plaza and I bought my leather cased steak knife, fork and knife sharpening rod as an Argentinean memento. Steak club is going to be impressed.
Opposite our hostel was a really popular more local diner we tried. We ordered some empanadas and humitas (corn bread wrapped in maize leaves). Didn't realise we'd get 12 empanadas for P$25 (£3) so we could take some for lunch for our tour tomorrow - they keep really well.
We left this town taking fond memories and headed out to do the Quebrada de Cafayate (sandstone formations) tour and continue to Salta. More about that in a separate post.
Mi gusta Cafayate.
Sunday 10 March 2013
Argentina - Sayta horse riding Ranch
The ranch organised a pickup in Salta where we'd meet others heading out for a day's horse riding. We joined them at camping grounds and a huge overland adventure truck was parked next to the tents. Getting into the mini bus I said to Mands that I was glad we weren't in that camping tour through South America. The Welsh guy next to us said yes, it had been tough going ... the minibus was full of people from the overland tour! I managed to take my foot out of my mouth during the transfer and find out about their tour - they sometimes travelled 2 days straight and one brother booked him and his sister on the tour not realising they would be in a truck and camping each night!
We were warmly greeted by Laura and Kylie together with their dogs, McKay their massive Argentine Doggo cross Labrador and Moody the endless energy weimaraner.
Straight onto the saddles for our first ride. We walked through fields of tabacco plants and tobacco drying sheds and across a river. Mands had her hands full with a horse that was intent on eating at every opportunity. It had been a leisurely start until we reached a grass plain and were taken for a gallop - the gauchos would gallop next to our horse holding our horses' harness to control him. You could really feel the power of those horses. I was over the walking and got the group trotting back to the ranch, an easy start to the riding. A less easy dismount as I could barely walk for a couple of minutes until my legs straightened.
Lunch was quite something. One of the Gaucho's, nicknamed Pollo, was the assador (bbq'er). With gauchos, guests and staff there were 20 of us but enough meat, salads and wine for 40. Round after round of meat came out, each with a heavy handed topup of wine. A good 3/4 bottle of wine later it was time for further riding!
This time everyone had more courage (liquid) on the horses. Mands and I led the canter'ing through the fields, now on a different trail and then walked up a stream. Again further galloping, led by the gaucho's and back to the ranch.
Our cabin was their really nice matrimonial room. After 5 hours of horse riding and wine, I hit the hay and Mands curled up with her book. (Wow Mands reads a lot- I now refer to her as eating books as each only lasts 2 to 3 days).
Kylie made us dinner and joined us. We chatted over 3 more bottles of wine and then retired to the pitch black, dead quiet night (avoiding all of the frogs between the main house and the cabin).
A similar day awaited us with 2 rides and enormous lunch. This time however the riders were more experienced and we opted to gallop ourselves, unaided by the gauchos. It's amazing running with these horses! Back in over cautious UK, we'd still be walking, wrapped in safety armour.
One couple were doing a similar route to us in South America, but with a 11 month old baby! Hats off to them.
Lunch was again great and wine flowed. The group was chatting up a storm for the second ride. Mands was riding behind one girl very much post-vino slouched to one side in the saddle. I was the only guy riding now with the group of good looking girls and must have been the envy of a group of road workers who came to a standstill as we trotted through.
Another good night chatting.
Our parents, Clive, Erica and Gerry had arranged for wedding anniversary cards to be sent to the ranch. Huge thank you for the efforts for this, we both really appreciated this. Unfortunately the post hadn't arrived by the time we had to leave, so Laura is going to forward it onto London.
Before we left to go catch our next bus, we were treated to Laura's son fighting imaginary bad guys on the back of the red pick up - dialogue, invisible special weapons, actions and all. Good to see this as it's how I grew up!
Luckily we could pick up the bus to Cafayate from a small town close to the ranch rather than going back to Salta and returning on the same road. The road to Cafayate was quite a site twisting and turning through the red mountains that themselves was a tour we'd return to to walk through the wind chiseled sculpture, but for now we were off for the wine area of Cafayate.
Saturday 9 March 2013
Argentina - Salta
Our Salta adventure started a day later than hoped. The plan from Puerto Iguacu, was to take a 22 hour bus ride to Tucuman, then book onto the next "leaves every hour" bus for the 4 hour final leg to Salta. In short... The bus ride to Tucuman took 26 hours (with no announcements and little food and drink - AndesMar Bus), arriving at 11:30 PM; the next bus to Salta was in 4 hours and in heavy rain, so we decided to book into a Lonely Planet hotel option; 2 hour queue to get a taxi best described as organised chaos; the hotel name had changed, prices doubled, the reception man must have been close to 100 years old, which is younger than the last time the hotel had any modernisation, and I might as well have been an alien trying to ask for wifi/Internet/google.
Finally, we were on a bus (best we've been on - VIP cama with AndesMar) to Salta. An interesting flamboyant guy from Salta started a conversation with us and continued on intermittently throughout the trip - his must do recommendation was to go and see the aliens in Cachi! Hmmm, maybe I could send the old man from the hotel reception there to teach him about the Internet.
On arriving we walked along the park towards the main plaza and stopped at small restaurant with tables on the pavement for their special of pizza and beer, 1 litre beers here. We took in the sights and sounds with an impressive red cathedral as a backdrop.
It was our 1 year marriage anniversary, so we'd look for somewhere nicer to stay in Salta. We walked a few blocks to the main plaza passing a park with people chilling on benches and home made biscuits, sweet (dulce) popcorn , and some handcrafts. Here we could sip on amber nectar, the local Cerveca Salta, sitting at a sidewalk restaurant and look up hostel options.
Hotel Angel was was a converted house, full of character and colonially decorated. Our room was large enough to swing a few cats and had balcony leading off.
A few weeks back I posted a travel forum question about the best steakhouse in Argentina (thorn tree, part of lonely planet). I had many responses and two were in Salta. I chose Viejo Jack's, the less main stream of the two.
A friendly reception awaited us to take us through the bamboo decorated eating hall to select our table. I asked for their best table and it was behind a pillar out of view of the TV, but with views of the street. Many less formal eateries in Argentina have TVs mounted and playing at a significant volume for patrons and staff to "enjoy" (!?!). Not the most romantic of anniversary atmospheres, but would the steak make up for it? We went round to speak to the chef who showed off the cuts of meat (so different looking to UK / SA cuts), and posed for some photos. The slower grilled steak arrived just in time for our second glass of good recommended wine. Thank goodness the waiter said the portions are large and we should share, the 750g whopper arrived. We shared it, with Mands not able to even finish her half! The whole meal and wine cost P$200 (£25 for two people), so beaks the scale for value for money. The steak was enjoyable, but doesn't edge into all time top ten.
A great memorable meal and good first anniversary. I so look forward to our future years, x.
In the morning, we were picked up for horse riding. We were staying 2 nights at a recommended ranch, Sayta Ranch, an hour from Salta. It was good horse riding, great food, fantastic service and friendly. More on that in another post.
From the ranch we would head onto Cafayate, a fantastic rustic town and centre of this small regions wine.
We would return to Salta for half a day and have another opportunity for some steak.
Finally, we were on a bus (best we've been on - VIP cama with AndesMar) to Salta. An interesting flamboyant guy from Salta started a conversation with us and continued on intermittently throughout the trip - his must do recommendation was to go and see the aliens in Cachi! Hmmm, maybe I could send the old man from the hotel reception there to teach him about the Internet.
On arriving we walked along the park towards the main plaza and stopped at small restaurant with tables on the pavement for their special of pizza and beer, 1 litre beers here. We took in the sights and sounds with an impressive red cathedral as a backdrop.
It was our 1 year marriage anniversary, so we'd look for somewhere nicer to stay in Salta. We walked a few blocks to the main plaza passing a park with people chilling on benches and home made biscuits, sweet (dulce) popcorn , and some handcrafts. Here we could sip on amber nectar, the local Cerveca Salta, sitting at a sidewalk restaurant and look up hostel options.
Hotel Angel was was a converted house, full of character and colonially decorated. Our room was large enough to swing a few cats and had balcony leading off.
A few weeks back I posted a travel forum question about the best steakhouse in Argentina (thorn tree, part of lonely planet). I had many responses and two were in Salta. I chose Viejo Jack's, the less main stream of the two.
A friendly reception awaited us to take us through the bamboo decorated eating hall to select our table. I asked for their best table and it was behind a pillar out of view of the TV, but with views of the street. Many less formal eateries in Argentina have TVs mounted and playing at a significant volume for patrons and staff to "enjoy" (!?!). Not the most romantic of anniversary atmospheres, but would the steak make up for it? We went round to speak to the chef who showed off the cuts of meat (so different looking to UK / SA cuts), and posed for some photos. The slower grilled steak arrived just in time for our second glass of good recommended wine. Thank goodness the waiter said the portions are large and we should share, the 750g whopper arrived. We shared it, with Mands not able to even finish her half! The whole meal and wine cost P$200 (£25 for two people), so beaks the scale for value for money. The steak was enjoyable, but doesn't edge into all time top ten.
A great memorable meal and good first anniversary. I so look forward to our future years, x.
In the morning, we were picked up for horse riding. We were staying 2 nights at a recommended ranch, Sayta Ranch, an hour from Salta. It was good horse riding, great food, fantastic service and friendly. More on that in another post.
From the ranch we would head onto Cafayate, a fantastic rustic town and centre of this small regions wine.
We would return to Salta for half a day and have another opportunity for some steak.
Brazil - The Rodizio
The rodizio grill is usually $R60, however with the hostel card we could get it for $R40 (£13) each.
After a couple of warm up cervezas we went through to the eat as much as you like restaurant. Effectively there's a salad and sides buffet (enormous) and every couple of minutes a waiter comes around with a straight off the grill meat on a skewer. The cuts in Brazil are different to those in SA or UK. I made sure we made our way around the entire cow, marking off ratings on the cut guide they gave us.
Their asado grill was impressively large. Mands and I went to have a look and then were invited in for photos. The waiters started to take a liking to us at this stage and we were getting preferential selections of meat. Careful not to take any more than a minimal amount of sides and no carbs, I sliced through round after round of deliciousa carne.
We spoke to an elder French couple at the table next to us. Mands says that when the boys were talking meat, the French lady rolled her eyes at her, in a here they go again way. Just when we'd finished my last mouthful of steak, the French man says to Mandy: "I don't know how he eats so much meat and has a flat stomach." Yes Messier, I don't know either.
Postre (deserts) were also a plentiful and with no room left in our stomachs, we did the only sensible thing for a backpacker, loaded up a plateful of desserts as as well!
Great night out!
Brazil & Argentina - Iguacu Falls
The falls border three countries... Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay. We'd be visiting the first two, being the main attractions.
We took the local bus into the town and with no hostel booked, we went in search for one. I decided one one, the first I've chosen the whole holiday - my wife does a masterful job at this so I usually watch from the sideline. Phew, it passed. And it had really good wifi in the room - many places have had no wifi or only available in the reception area.
The hostel told us about a rodizio grill, Buffalo Bronco, two blocks away where we could get a discount and great food. More about that great meal in a separate post.
We caught the 120 local bus to arrive just before the national park opens. We entered the bus station correctly through the ticket booth this time - yesterday we walked in on the side of the road that's a very open entrance, but were descended upon in a Royal Marine like attack by the security guard. Can't believe how cheap the busses are.
Our backpacks were with us as we'd head straight over the border to Argentina. After a good game of tetris, we puzzled our 2 backpacks, 1 daypack and the rolled up painting from Salvador into the one locker.
An open top bus took us to the start of the one kilometre walk along the falls to wards Garganta do Diablo (Devil's Throat). From the first lookout area, the falls were impressive. The river flows down and then along the side of the drop points creating the cataratus (falls) a good kilometre long.
As we walked along the trail the waterfalls grew in size (width) and ferocity. specialist boats offering water tours were dwarfed by the powerful cataratus. We could see people one the Argentina side who were mere specs, but have real perspective on the height of the falls.
Along the path, we saw a 2 meter black and yellow tree snake some tourists had spotted, before the The Devil's Throat appeared - quite fitting. It is truly impressive.
A viewing platform is built out over the falls half way up. We covered the camera in a plastic bag, put the waterproof cover on the day pack and headed out on the platform. The water crashes down and creates a mist or even rain that hits you side on. In a couple of minutes we were drenched. With the mist, amazing rainbows are created with the sun penetrating through.
Still soaked we walked on to the lunch area next to the start of the falls. Initially an exciting find, the raccoon like animals quickly turned into the devil's pets as they tormented those having lunch. We could see how this happened with some visitors giving them food where clear signs police against it. One crazy mother held her baby next to these wild animals for a close up photo!
Instead of catching the bus straight away, we walked back along the train to get to see the great waterfalls and glad we did as we got tom see another perspective as we walked.
We negotiated the taxi driver down to our expected tariff to drive us through the Brazilian boarded to the Argentinean border (great tip from the hostel instead of taking bus after bus through each stage). Before long I was standing on Argentinean soil! A local bus that lucking accepted Bolivian Reals took us into the Argentinean side town of Puerto Iguazú.
Mands took control of hostel booking again, booking us into a small converted house with a pool. After posting off same items to the UK (including Miguel, the painting from Salvador, I'd accidentally left at the bank 5 minutes earlier), we cooled off in the pool.
Now refreshed, we were ready for our first Argentinian parrilla. These grills are served on a steel tray with coals underneath to keep it hot and include pork sausage, black pudding, beef ribs, chicken, kidneys and stuffed small intestine - all went down well except for the stuffed small intestine, one bight was enough as I couldn't work out what it was stuffed with! Parrilla's are available throughout Argentina, but will be sticking to straight meat form here out.
Iguazú Falls day, Argentinean side day. A local bus took us out and we joined the short entrance queue. Good to see there are discounted rates for Argentinians and interestingly, further discounts for those living in the province and also discounts for neighbouring countries. South Africa really needs to be doing more of this.
You have to take the world's slowest train to the central station and then a mother train to the Devil's Throat. We met Nick, a young South African doctor in the queue and had a good catch up with him and his interesting national service stories about bullets and machetes.
The Devil's Throat was heaving with people. We shuffled along to get views and for photos. The different view further shows the river demonstrating it's power. The water spray here was much stronger than the Brazilian side so we were soaked in seconds.
A train back to central station and we headed out along the trails towards the Jungle Tour start point. This was the boart ride that that takes you right up to the falls.
The boat was the largest semi-rigid inflatable I'd ever seen. It had seating for forty people and the captain had a specially built two meter hight platform at the back of the boat to get his advantage point. We were taken to two waterfall points first for photo time and then right into the spray and the waterfall base. What power! We had to close our eyes at stages with the water lashing across. The closer he got to the falls, the more the boat would cheer, egging him on. It's a short powerful 15 minutes, but worth every Peso!
In the afternoon we walked the upper circuit, along the top of the waterfalls and again incredible rainbows encircled each waterfall.
The final waterfall had an unexpected "treat" waiting, an older man was sitting in his underwear, legs crossed, meditating and rocking forwards and backwards. Of course I snuck up and had a photo in front of him.
Now which side is better to visit? It's worth visiting both, but not to sit on the fence on this one, I'd choose to walk on the Brazilian side if only doing one.
Back at the hostel we cooled off again with a swim, Mands had her last play with the kitten an we headed off for a pizza, before the start of our longest, coldest, hungriest bus ride ever...
Brazil - Florianopolis
The island is known as the Brazilian version of Ibiza, with similar clubs and enjoys a good party. We opted to stay in a quieter area, but close to the beach.
It's still a large island and to get around the local busses take ages, as they don't go the most direct route. We hired a cr as was suggested, a lawn mower sized engine (1 litre) in this Golf GOL. With constant right, right, right (drive on the right hand side of the road) reminders, my navigator and I arrived at the hostal. It was very basic, but a good location.
Straight down to the beach just as sun disappeared, along with a couple of beers and caipirinhas.
Looking for something to eat we found a beach football game starting up under floodlights. Grand stands full of people surrounded the ground and as far as we could work out, the regional teams league. All quite serious and one guy in the local team had a serious hoof on him.
The next day was straight onto the beach. A short drive away is one of the main surfing beaches called Praia Mole. We were one of the first people on and had the full stretch of soft sand to choose. Now being very Brazil beach experienced we hired our chairs and umbrella, got out Mand's sarong (no beach towels in the whole of Brazil, and sat down in our Brazilian costumes. These are a good deal smaller than regular costumes and board shorts, so we needed to continue working on tanning the whiter bits.
I love body surfing. A beach is not a beach without waves, but although Mole had the waves, the accessible waves would dump right close to the shore line. They were as powerful as Durban's Salt Rock waves. This meant that we'd swim through them behind the impact zone and this would give us good people watching opportunities, of which there were plenty. Many less adept wave swimmers entered the water and would be taken out over and over with each new swell.
Beach tennis is popular, but is something to behold. No rallying to each other, it's full on war. Old vs young, male vs female, no holds barred!
Our beach waiter would bring out drinks to us and we tried our first acai, frozen berries and chocolate, muesli and nuts - a good morning snack.
Mole was a great beach.
After lunch, with the scorching sun beating down, we headed up the coast. Mozambique was the next significant beach and is kilometres long, but only a hand full of fisherman and bathers.
We continued up to the northerly part of the island stopped in a couple of more places, but nothing anywhere as nice as Mole. We eventually reached the more known party spot, Jureré praia. We walked up the narrow beach next to the calm ocean and nothing much was happening - no Ibiza beach bars with DJ's playing while someone on a saxophone blows out rifts surrounded with people dancing. The big parties had been, but now the second week after carnival it was super quiet.
We drove the 30 minutes back to the Lagoa close to where we were staying and Mands got treated to her favourite food, Sushi. I ordered salmon hand rolls and they were the best I'd ever eaten.
On our last full day we headed down to the south of the island, Pantano do Sol, the fishing side. Locals ambled up to collect their fresh catch from a small fishing boat and families chilled on the calm beach. Too calm for us, so we headed off to Matadeiro beach further up on the east coast.
This too didn't seem to have much happening, so we grabbed an ice cream and went for a walk. A few minutes on and we found the path to the proper Matadeiro "by foot only" beach and you need to cross a small river to get there. Where the river flowed into the sea, two net fishermen tried to catch their dinner. The river outlet kicked up well forming waves that a group of surfers took advantage of.
We set up in front of a beach bar and soaked up the rays. That was for all of 5 minutes before I was lured into the ocean. Fantastic body surfing waves curled in one after another. A good three foot face came crashing over and peeling left and right. The waves were a good distance out and a great surf in. Probably the best body surfing ever. Mands and I went round after round of sit, soak and surf.
There were no non-swimmers here like we'd seen in Mole, but we did see three people being rescued after a rip took them out a bit far.
More surfers, competitive beach tennis and football skills on the beach - these Brazilians all seem quite comfortable with the round ball.
Matadeiro beach was fantastic!
I'd said we'd go to a place I'd seen on the hilltop next to the lagoon for sunset, so we headed there. The lagoon is huge so for sunset you have the added reflection off the water.
We headed down to the lagoon's waters edge for a dinner and now expected accompanying live music.
Ending off we needed to get the rental car filled up with fuel. Sounds easy, but with most cars in Brazil now a petrol / ethanol hybrids, I had no idea what to do. Licking there are petrol attendants and after a few questions from them and a few clueless yes answers from me the car was filled.all good.
Florionopolis brought an end to our fantastic Brazilian beach time. We leave with local swimming costumes, good tans and new havianna sandals. Will we ever use a regular towel again?
Off to waterfalls, a kilometre long!
Brazil - Salvador and Carnival
Salvador was a mixed bag, starting off poorly, but ending well...
The city of Salvador is further north up the coast from Rio and referred to in our travel book as the jewel of Brazil. It's the African soul of the country where descendants of African slaves preserved their culture more than anywhere else. After a 2 hour flight we arrived, but trouble... I'd picked up travellers tummy, but after an extended stay at the airport loos, we braved the taxi.
Mands booked our accommodation 9 months ago and had the confirmation form with address to hand for the taxi. No one seemed to know where the address was (Mands always does good research, so we knew it was in a good to stay area). The taxi office phoned the hostal and they explained how to get there, but then said they didn't have a booking for us. An argument later, they said to come through and they had another place to accommodate us. The conversation had got Mand's back up and we decided I should take over discussions when we arrived - or we may be out on the street and being Carnival, it would be near impossible to find anything else.
The taxi dropped us at a square already heaving with people. The hostal is right in the middle of the Afro carnival section! Someone from the hostal met us at the square and lead us through. No negotiating was required as they had cleared out a room and remade it for us, having realised their mistake.
Looking down from the first floor small bands were already making their way up the street in colourful others and with early revellers starting out. Further cobbled streets and overhead carnival decorations lit up against the piercing blue sky.
Our travel book went on to say that it you are going to be pick pocketed in Brazil, Salvador carnival is the number 1 spot. With this in our minds, we cautiously walked to the nearest bank machine a block away. The full amount for our accommodation was required up front. The bank wasn't working. During carnival every few blocks was a tourist help stand, so we got directions to the next bank. Trying to cut a long story short, most banks are closed in the area to protect visitors. We found a bank an hour later ,after a good urban adventure, in Cidade Baixa (lower city). The cash machine with per transaction withdrawal limits made us draw 3 times and each time dispensed cash in BOL 10 notes. We split up the money between pockets, shoes and underwater and safely made it back.
With my stomach, I couldn't eat or party that night, but we would watch some of the festivities from our window.
The Afro section celebrates Salvador's African roots. It spans a good 15 square blocks in the historic Pelourino or Pelõ area, Salvador's centre of tourism, activities and night life. Already present arts, crafts, music and tourist shops display their wares flowing onto the road. Further informal sellers display more items on the pavement. Ladies in more traditional Swiss rimmed puffed out dresses try o entice you into their shops.
We we walked around and found a place where Michael Jackson had a photo on the balcony when he was here with the now famous Oldum drumming band. I had to have a photo there too. A bead seller came over and told us about the Salvador ribbons we'd seen tied to a church a block away. He tied one on each of our wrists and gave us a full set, of course leading to a sales pitch. We did support him, but only bargaining down 300 percent for the necklace.
The streets were buzzing with people. We finally got to see some capoeira, the martial arts dancing. Band after band marched through and informal drinks sellers had their cooler boxes out - definitely cheaper than Rio.
We tried different food, some good, some less so. A great find was the queijo de coalho sellers (cheese of the coal) - Effectively a melted cheese kebab. A 10 cm cheese rectangle, on a kebab stick, dipped in origanum and slowly melted over coals in a portable bucked. At $R3 they were a treat. Acaraje is Salvador's staple street food, a dough ball sliced open with cheese, vegetables and whole small shrimps with some spicy sauce - Mands enjoyed this, me less so.
Isabel, São Paolo girl we stayed with in Rio, had told us about the Ghanji men being a not to miss event. It's thousands of men (only men) dressed in white cloths and head dress with blue beads and ribbons. They were formed as a peaceful movement and took on the name from Ghandi and their dress from a movie (we think it was the jungle book). Isabel said the men would line the streets and wash them with water. No washing this time, but they were in all their whites and blues forming a massive Trio of their own - quite a sight
One evening we did venture down to the start of the main trio routes. The trios are huge articulated trucks with enormous speakers and the band and singers performing on top of it. It's bigger than any truck you've ever seen. You can buy expensive tickets and be part of the cordoned off procession around it or, risk your life and be "popcorn" (that's what the Brazilians call it ) and jump up and down with any space left. Police patrol in groups of 6, always in a line - fights break out and they are there to break it up. We skipped getting in any of these.
We had 3 days of carnival and one post. For the last day, we headed to Barra beach for a good few hours of sun and then great sunset over the ocean, next to the light house. The melted cheese guys also made it to the beach, so had to have more of them with our cervezas.
Mands found us a great restaurant and we had more traditional moquenas (traditional stew) this time with Camerones (shrimps). The travel clinic travellers bug meds had worked great by this stage!
I must also mention the per kilo food, we would have this a few times in Brazil when we were tired of Saltados - you pick from a buffet and then have it weighed and is very cost effective. You may need a stronger stomach to keep up on these.
Before leaving, we were fond of a painting that we'd seen in one of the studios. The paintings here are not prints, but have displays of some really good artists. A bit of hard negotiating and we got our optimistic price we were aiming for. Miguel as he's now been named is a character in the painting chilling on his hammock - let's hope he makes it back to London in 1 piece in the post.
After a crazy few days in Salvador, we're looking forward to talks good beach time.
The city of Salvador is further north up the coast from Rio and referred to in our travel book as the jewel of Brazil. It's the African soul of the country where descendants of African slaves preserved their culture more than anywhere else. After a 2 hour flight we arrived, but trouble... I'd picked up travellers tummy, but after an extended stay at the airport loos, we braved the taxi.
Mands booked our accommodation 9 months ago and had the confirmation form with address to hand for the taxi. No one seemed to know where the address was (Mands always does good research, so we knew it was in a good to stay area). The taxi office phoned the hostal and they explained how to get there, but then said they didn't have a booking for us. An argument later, they said to come through and they had another place to accommodate us. The conversation had got Mand's back up and we decided I should take over discussions when we arrived - or we may be out on the street and being Carnival, it would be near impossible to find anything else.
The taxi dropped us at a square already heaving with people. The hostal is right in the middle of the Afro carnival section! Someone from the hostal met us at the square and lead us through. No negotiating was required as they had cleared out a room and remade it for us, having realised their mistake.
Looking down from the first floor small bands were already making their way up the street in colourful others and with early revellers starting out. Further cobbled streets and overhead carnival decorations lit up against the piercing blue sky.
Our travel book went on to say that it you are going to be pick pocketed in Brazil, Salvador carnival is the number 1 spot. With this in our minds, we cautiously walked to the nearest bank machine a block away. The full amount for our accommodation was required up front. The bank wasn't working. During carnival every few blocks was a tourist help stand, so we got directions to the next bank. Trying to cut a long story short, most banks are closed in the area to protect visitors. We found a bank an hour later ,after a good urban adventure, in Cidade Baixa (lower city). The cash machine with per transaction withdrawal limits made us draw 3 times and each time dispensed cash in BOL 10 notes. We split up the money between pockets, shoes and underwater and safely made it back.
With my stomach, I couldn't eat or party that night, but we would watch some of the festivities from our window.
The Afro section celebrates Salvador's African roots. It spans a good 15 square blocks in the historic Pelourino or Pelõ area, Salvador's centre of tourism, activities and night life. Already present arts, crafts, music and tourist shops display their wares flowing onto the road. Further informal sellers display more items on the pavement. Ladies in more traditional Swiss rimmed puffed out dresses try o entice you into their shops.
We we walked around and found a place where Michael Jackson had a photo on the balcony when he was here with the now famous Oldum drumming band. I had to have a photo there too. A bead seller came over and told us about the Salvador ribbons we'd seen tied to a church a block away. He tied one on each of our wrists and gave us a full set, of course leading to a sales pitch. We did support him, but only bargaining down 300 percent for the necklace.
The streets were buzzing with people. We finally got to see some capoeira, the martial arts dancing. Band after band marched through and informal drinks sellers had their cooler boxes out - definitely cheaper than Rio.
We tried different food, some good, some less so. A great find was the queijo de coalho sellers (cheese of the coal) - Effectively a melted cheese kebab. A 10 cm cheese rectangle, on a kebab stick, dipped in origanum and slowly melted over coals in a portable bucked. At $R3 they were a treat. Acaraje is Salvador's staple street food, a dough ball sliced open with cheese, vegetables and whole small shrimps with some spicy sauce - Mands enjoyed this, me less so.
Isabel, São Paolo girl we stayed with in Rio, had told us about the Ghanji men being a not to miss event. It's thousands of men (only men) dressed in white cloths and head dress with blue beads and ribbons. They were formed as a peaceful movement and took on the name from Ghandi and their dress from a movie (we think it was the jungle book). Isabel said the men would line the streets and wash them with water. No washing this time, but they were in all their whites and blues forming a massive Trio of their own - quite a sight
One evening we did venture down to the start of the main trio routes. The trios are huge articulated trucks with enormous speakers and the band and singers performing on top of it. It's bigger than any truck you've ever seen. You can buy expensive tickets and be part of the cordoned off procession around it or, risk your life and be "popcorn" (that's what the Brazilians call it ) and jump up and down with any space left. Police patrol in groups of 6, always in a line - fights break out and they are there to break it up. We skipped getting in any of these.
We had 3 days of carnival and one post. For the last day, we headed to Barra beach for a good few hours of sun and then great sunset over the ocean, next to the light house. The melted cheese guys also made it to the beach, so had to have more of them with our cervezas.
Mands found us a great restaurant and we had more traditional moquenas (traditional stew) this time with Camerones (shrimps). The travel clinic travellers bug meds had worked great by this stage!
I must also mention the per kilo food, we would have this a few times in Brazil when we were tired of Saltados - you pick from a buffet and then have it weighed and is very cost effective. You may need a stronger stomach to keep up on these.
Before leaving, we were fond of a painting that we'd seen in one of the studios. The paintings here are not prints, but have displays of some really good artists. A bit of hard negotiating and we got our optimistic price we were aiming for. Miguel as he's now been named is a character in the painting chilling on his hammock - let's hope he makes it back to London in 1 piece in the post.
After a crazy few days in Salvador, we're looking forward to talks good beach time.
Brazil - Ilha Grande
Ihla Grande, the famed island 150km south of Rio, was our next stop. We took a 8am bus from Paraty, arriving 2 hours later at Angros Dos Reis to take the 11am ferry across. The large catamaran ferry take around an hour to cross with last twenty minute spent rounding the island to Abraao, the only town on Ihla Grande. It was quite a cloudy day but the island still looked beautiful with it's tall peak behind the town and rolling hills covered with green Atlantic rainforest. The pathways are all sandy and buzzed with bicycles and people - the only cars allowed on the island seemed to be a tractor and an ambulance.
We checked into the accommodation and then headed to the little beach near the port for an hour or so before the heavens opened! Luckily there are a few shops to potter through. And we were okay having a bit of downtime.
The following morning we had decided we would hike to Lopes Mendes beach, one of the most beautiful in Brazil. A 3hr hike through rainforest, we were very glad we had opted to wear decent hiking shoes. There were some steep sections that were rocky and muddy and people in flip flops were having a hard time of it.
It was a beautiful walk with views of the beaches, birds and one massive shongololo, around 75cm, and nearly trodden on by Warren!
Lopez Mendes was fantastic, a long beach on a bay with waves, clear water and the finest white sand either of us had walked on. It squeaked under our feet. It was cloudy again, but on a beautiful blue day the beach must be magnificent. As we'd see, Brazil is spoilt for beaches and islands. We had gone armed with rolls, tomatoes, cheese and ham slices and picnicked on the beach. I should also mention we had our very own pepper for the rolls that Wassie bought - through all our meals in Brazil, not one place had pepper. We'd had a good two hours on the beach and body surfing in the waves before it started to rain and after hanging around under the trees for a while, we decided it was time to hike back. Half an hour in the heavens opened on us and it was quite a hike. But we made it back in 2hrs 15, very grateful for a nice shower at the end.
That evening we found a great little place serving various barbecued wraps and noodle dishes. There was live music and the food was delicious and reasonable - all in all a winner in backpack land! The noodle chef heard we were from South Africa, so came over for a chat as he was looking at going traveling to the motherland in the coming year.
The next day we had a little beach time, a potter around Abraao and caught the 12.30 ferry back to mainland to head to Rio.
We checked into the accommodation and then headed to the little beach near the port for an hour or so before the heavens opened! Luckily there are a few shops to potter through. And we were okay having a bit of downtime.
The following morning we had decided we would hike to Lopes Mendes beach, one of the most beautiful in Brazil. A 3hr hike through rainforest, we were very glad we had opted to wear decent hiking shoes. There were some steep sections that were rocky and muddy and people in flip flops were having a hard time of it.
It was a beautiful walk with views of the beaches, birds and one massive shongololo, around 75cm, and nearly trodden on by Warren!
Lopez Mendes was fantastic, a long beach on a bay with waves, clear water and the finest white sand either of us had walked on. It squeaked under our feet. It was cloudy again, but on a beautiful blue day the beach must be magnificent. As we'd see, Brazil is spoilt for beaches and islands. We had gone armed with rolls, tomatoes, cheese and ham slices and picnicked on the beach. I should also mention we had our very own pepper for the rolls that Wassie bought - through all our meals in Brazil, not one place had pepper. We'd had a good two hours on the beach and body surfing in the waves before it started to rain and after hanging around under the trees for a while, we decided it was time to hike back. Half an hour in the heavens opened on us and it was quite a hike. But we made it back in 2hrs 15, very grateful for a nice shower at the end.
That evening we found a great little place serving various barbecued wraps and noodle dishes. There was live music and the food was delicious and reasonable - all in all a winner in backpack land! The noodle chef heard we were from South Africa, so came over for a chat as he was looking at going traveling to the motherland in the coming year.
The next day we had a little beach time, a potter around Abraao and caught the 12.30 ferry back to mainland to head to Rio.
Brazil - Paraty
We arrived in the late morning heat, dropped our bags, and at this stage pressing laundry, and made our way to the beach only a short walk through the old town and across the river.
A small number of beach bars and restaurants (more shacks than houses) lined the beach under the shade of large trees. I had a quick refreshing dip, but soon bounced straight out as it was dark water with moss underfoot - this however was more a harbour beach and the only one like it fortunately. We ordered some beers and shared a basket of cod fish balls for lunch while a guy started up on his guitar. After he finished, I offered him a beer for his efforts and he gladly accepted told me about him travelling through from Argentina.
Caipirinhas are Brazil's famed cocktails. The original is made with Cachasa (a sugar cane spirit), crunched ice, lime and some sugar. The bar staff were friendly and I asked about the Cachasa and if I could smell some. I guess my guitar man drink goodwill came back quickly as they gave me a double on the house as a welcome. It's very similar to cane in SA. Mands and I followed my taster with our first and by no means last caipirinha in Brazil - nice.
That evening, we wondered through the cobbled streets and and along the small dock familiarising ourselves with our temporary home. Mandy took some great photos with the houses and coloured doors reflecting off the water where high tide had run up onto the streets.
We found a really reasonable and fantastic mocequa (fish stew) restaurant. With a clear warm evening, we sat outside on the road, like most restaurants offered. All of the stone roads are fully pedestrianised and it's quite a sight against the old white buildings with coloured doors. On every second corner, there's a desert trolley that's wheeled in. The owner sells a variety of fresh cakes - we got recommendations on their most popular and tucked in.
As carnival week was approaching, the small plaza had a stage up and each evening one of the performing bands or dance groups took the stage for a live practice. It was packed with people and I got my first taste of what Rio will be like. Carnival fever starts in the beginning of January and peaks for the actual carnival week in February. It's all over South America, but it's Brazil that leads the charge.
To see the beaches and islands, you need to go by boat. We booked on a tour aboard a large yacht. This took us to 3 beaches and 2 snorkelling spots. The beaches had really fine sand and the sea was quite like the Mediterranean, no waves. Many guests took a dingy transfer to the beach, but we opted at each stop to dive off the yacht and swim in.
A man played on his guitar and sang all the way. He was quite good. We'd read about restaurants in Brazil charging for live music and this was our first, and definitely not last taste of it. It's actually itemised on the bill.
Snorkelling started with hundreds of fish around us at the boat as bread crumbs were dropped overboard. We headed off to the rocky section on the island and spotted 2 what we think are stone fish. We'd never seen anything like them before, but knowing they are poisonous, we kept our distance.
Another first, was the bikinis. All Brazilians wear less than the standard bikini bottom, any more than a cut away bum and you're wearing a granny costume. For guys, half wear board shorts and the others wear boxer like speedos. Hmm, this is going to take some getting used to.
After the boat the heavens opened and rained heavily for a good 3 hours. This could be pay back for all the good weather we'd had so far. I picked a bar and went I'm for a beer. I asked the waiter for a recommendation and a beer with a bear on came out. It was below average, but when the bill came it was anything but below average!
We went to Paraty 33 for a few evening cocktails. I had the big camera (SLR) with me and did a quick walk around town snapping away at the now glass like puddles that had formed from the rain. The town looked even better reflected on the water. Mands had stayed at the restaurant, while I was off with the camera, so we met up again just in time for the live music to start and then accompany our meal. This music too was good. As with the boat, the restaurant bill comes with a set fee per head for the music (between R$3 and 8). I'm leaning more towards this being a good thing as the level of music is raised and there's more live music around. Bad luck if you don't like their music.
We leave with fond memories of Paraty town.
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